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Sedans Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair
2935 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 7:49 AM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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It looks like we are about to add a 1992 Mercury Sable GS (Vulcan) to our family, as my mother-in-law has decided to stop driving at age 91. This car is basically the definition of cream puff. Only 24,000 miles, garaged almost all the time in an unheated attached garage, and essentially like new condition, with excellent maintenance. We are likely to buy it from her for my son's first car. He is a responsible 21 year old college junior. I cannot see passing it up as we know the history, though he doesn't really have to have a car until perhaps a year from now I am contemplating replacing tires, even though I see no dry rot on the OEM's and there is a lot of tread left. Also maybe getting hoses and belts inspected and maybe replaced before turning it over to my son. Anything else all you Edmund's "experts" think needs doing/checking? No "off the wall" recommendations like changing brake fluid or power steering fluid, as I am of the opinion these types of non-manufacturer recommended items are not necessary. |
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I don't claim to be an X-spurt, but you might want to read this before dissing accurate, factual, technical information as "off the wall". Originally written as a brake fluid comparison but containing accurate information about glycol based brake fluid: http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/brkfld.shtml P.S. Why d'ya think EVERY container of glycol brake fluid contains the warning "Keep tightly sealed to prevent moisture contamination", or words to that effect? |
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While I understand the argument, it is hard for me to refute my personal experience of over 30 years of car ownership. I have never had a failure of brake components due to corroded master cylinders or calipers. Perhaps I have just been lucky, but that is my experience. I may have had brakes bled and fluid refills when I have routine brake jobs done, but this interval generally was more like 5-7 years. My guess is that the moisture absorbed by brake fluid is in most cases not an issue, unless you live in very humid southern states. |
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But you are only a database of one, and also each car is different. On say a Porsche, not flushing fluid regularly is a deadly mistake, so..... Having said that, there's an easy way to settle the argument that should satisfy both sides. Look at the fluid reservoir. If it is not crystal clear like cooking oil, and has some darkening in evidence, change it right away. As for coolant, it has a life of only a couple of years, that's pretty certain, but again if you want to be prudent but not reckless, take out a sample and judge its purity. Old coolant looks OLD. And you're right, any "age-related" item like belts hoses and tires need a very close look. I'd also give it a good long HARD run before turning it over to a young driver. |
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When we have visited her I occasionally drive it, and some is at highway speeds, so I do know that engine, brakes, steering and transmission are all working properly. Before my current Taurus Duratec, I owned a 2000 Vulcan Taurus, so I do know how that era generally behave. Vulcan engine is pretty much bullet proof. I do know Ford had some transmission issues when going to the electronic controls, I believe starting in 1991, but since this car has been babied and garaged all its life, we will take the risk. As far as coolant, Grandma had it changed at least every three years, so should be no problem there. I even talked her out of changing it this year, as she had done it two years and maybe 2000 miles ago. AC works, at least it did last summer. Anyone know if 1992's still had the old Freon? OK, I will at least look at the brake fluid. Doubt if I will bleed/flush it. Maybe replace what is in the master cylinder reservoir so it slowly mixes in with the fluid in the lines. This should help dilute any excess moisture. Brakes stop straight, smooth, and true. Thank goodness it is not a Porsche. I wouldn't want the maintenance or insurance costs. Can't imagine what the car insurance for a Porsche with a 21 year old male driver would be! |
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Probably more than the car! Actually Porsches are not high maintenance if you tend to them regularly. They just don't tolerate neglect---otherwise, they are a tough car. American and Japanese cars seem to tolerate neglect more easily. |
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Gotta be careful typing "Shiftright". I almost transposed the ft, and that is not a pretty name! I see I made an error in my last post also, as my previous Taurus was a 1990, while my current one is a 2000. We figure on paying Grandma about $2k for the car, based on approximate Edmunds and KBB private sale value. "Porsches are not high maintenance if you tend to them regularly"? Sounds pretty much like two terms for the same thing. Myabe you are defining "tending to" as planned maintenance while "high maintenance" is breakdowns? Anyhow, Porsche will never be in our driveway unless I have a rich relative visit that I don't know about! |
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| 2001 SES with 29k miles--front brakes are starting to squeak badly. Any ideas? I ned to take it in but I would like to hear some advice so I know what I am talking about. Thanks | |
| There might be two reasons. Pads may be worn, this is well possible for 29K milage if you live in city or calipers are sticking causing drag on pads then overheating disk-pad and wheel. You should be able to tauch your wheels by bare hand after driving if calipers are OK. | |
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