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Maintenance & Repair Check Engine light
1656 messages, Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 6:37 PM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
Well, My 1997 Ford F-150's engine light came on about 5 years ago with no change in operating condition. It now has 140,000 miles and runs great with no change in mileage or running condition......My 92 XLE Camry's light came on about 7 years ago.....same as above ( my abs light comes on when I hit 62 miles per hour). And my 96 Civic's light came on at about 160,000 with conditons same as above.....am I going to have these lights checked out, probably not.
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Replying to: bassmax (May 28, 2008 7:06 am)  I'm glad you got lucky, but others could ignore an engine light and have a disaster, too. The odds suggest that having a CEL checked out is a good idea.
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Replying to: bassmax (May 28, 2008 7:06 am) |
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I own a 1993 Ford Festiva with 130,000 miles on it.I bought it new,and have been the car's only owner.I love this car because it has been so darned reliable,and it gets excellent gas milage.Yesterday,I had the hood popped to check my oil.I was looking at my spark plug wires,and they looked as if they were loose,and needed to be pushed onto the spark plugs more.So I pushed them onto them.I drove the car off and on all afternoon,and then last night as I was driving home at dark,the check engine light proceeded to light.This is the first time that this light has ever lit on this car in the 15 years that I have owned it.Today,I drove it a short distance,and the check engine light lit once again.Performance-wise,the car is driving and running fine-with no change in the way that it runs,or loss of power.The only thing that I notice is that it is "missing" a little bit,but has been doing this for a while-but the engine light never lit.Also,I notice that when it rains,the car starts missing.Possibly maybe a crack in my distributor cap,that when it gets wet-it gets all funky.But when it stops raining and gets dry,it's okay.I do a lot of long-distance driving,and it kinda freaked me out when this CEL went off last night,wondering if the car is safe to drive-and that my engine wasn't conking out on me.But am REALLY suspecting that my pushing the spark plug wires the way that I did yesterday has something to do with the light going off.I had my last tune up back in 2005,and have driven about 25-30,000 miles since then.What is the recommended milage between tune-ups? When the check engine light goes off,what is actually happening,and what can the problems be? Any input that you can give me about this light going off would be much appreciated!! Oh,and another thing,my mom was riding in the passenger side of the car yesterday-and her shoulder harness kept gripping her extremely tight.(It has never done this before) Once,to the point that I had to reach over and use the emergency release to release her.Would the CEL go off if a shoulder harness was malfunctioning?? 
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Replying to: nikon6762 (May 31, 2008 6:21 pm) Certainly ready for another tune-up.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 01, 2008 6:40 am) 
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Replying to: nikon6762 (Jun 01, 2008 8:13 am) |
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Replying to: nikon6762 (May 31, 2008 6:21 pm) Maybe I can help you but first my name is Tony. Base on the info you gave I think you should do the following: go to your local Ford dealer to purchase (1) a set of ignition wires (also known as spark plug wires), (2) 4 spark plugs, (3) 1 Distributor Cap and (4) 1 Distributor Rotor. Have a professional install these parts on your car. MAKE SURE YOU PURCHASE THESE PARTS AT YOUR FORD DEALER because they are better quality parts than, say AutoZone, R&S Strauss, or PepBoys. It's worth paying 5 or ten dollars once rather than paying $20, 30, or $40.00 dollars re-doing the job two or three times, or getting stuck on the highway. How much do you think the tow will cost due to defective parts? I learned from experience that you get better parts at the dealer than at a local auto parts store. If you really think about it makes sense. Parts at the dealer costs more because the parts have to go through what's called "quality control standards." In other words, each and every part purchased at a dealer is tested to make sure not only that it works but also that it works properly under different stress levels. Other makers of parts only copy the parts and do not subject their parts to quality control tests. Also while you are at it, you should change the air filter, PCV valve (if your car has one), and the gas filter. MAKE SURE YOU ALSO BUY THESE PARTS ALSO AT YOUR FORD DEALER. I know what I'm talking about because I have over 20 years experience fixing automobiles. If you have any problems, just post a message here. Good luck. By the way, what is your name? |
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Replying to: nikon6762 (May 31, 2008 6:21 pm) Hi , Its Tony again and I forgot to tell you that I found a recall on your car. It's listed below. Also, while you're at the Ford dealer check with the service department to see if there are any open recalls on your car. Make sure you have your VIN number with you because you will need so that the service department can check for the recalls. NHTSA Campaign Number: 96E017000 Vehicle/Equipment Make: FORD Vehicle/Eqipment Model: FESTIVA Model Year: 1993 Mfg Campaign Number: Mfg Component Desc: SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM Mfg Involved in Recall: FORD MOTOR COMPANY Manufacture Dates: 04-01-96 through 06-01-96 Type of Report: (E) Vehicle Potential # of Units Affected: 94 Date Owner Notified by Mfg: 07-96-96 Recall Initiated By: MFR Mfg Responsible for Recall: MOOG AUTOMOTIVE Report Recieved Date: 06-96-96 Record Creation Date: 06-96-96 Regulation Part Number: FMVSS Number: Defect Summary: EQUIPMENT DESCRIPTION: AFTERMARKET BALL JOINT/CONTROL ARM MANUFACTURED BY MOOG INDUSTRIES. DUE TO MISPACKAGING, CERTAIN BALL JOINT/CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLIES WERE INCORRECTLY PLACED IN THE WRONG BOXES. Consequence Summary: THESE BALL JOINT/CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLIES WILL NOT FIT INTO THE FRAME RECESS WITHOUT BEING ALTERED. ALSO THE STUD IS UNDERSIZED AND WILL NOT FIT THE SPINDLE PROPERLY POSSIBLY CAUSING A LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE ACCIDENT. Corrective Summary: MOOG WILL REPLACE THE INCORRECTLY PACKAGED ASSEMBLIES WITH CORRECT BALL JOINT/CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLIES. the above recall info retrieved from: http://www.allworldauto.com/recalls/NHTSA_96E017000_1993_FORD_FESTIVA_recall_464- 4.html |
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Replying to: nikon6762 (Jun 01, 2008 8:13 am) |
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