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Transmission Traumas?

2411 messages,  Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 1:19 PM

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#2369 of 2411 Re: clutch cable madness [jmurd] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jul 27, 2008 (1:41 pm)
Replying to: jmurd (Jul 27, 2008 9:12 am) Removal      1. Lift the clutch pedal to its upward most position to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Push the quadrant forward, unhook the cable from the quadrant and allow to slowly swing rearward.    2. Open the hood. Remove the screw retaining cable assembly insulator to the dash panel.    3. Pull the cable through the dash panel and into the engine compartment. Remove cable bracket screw from fender apron.    4. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.    5. On 5.OL engines, remove the dust cover from the bell housing.    6. Remove the clip retainer retaining cable assembly to the bell housing.    7. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly through the hole in the clutch release lever and remove the cable.    8. On 2.3L OHC engines, remove hairpin clip, clevis pin and clevis from end of cable.   Installation   CAUTION: The clutch pedal must be lifted to disengage the adjusting mechanism during cable installation. Failure to do so will result in damage to the self-adjuster mechanism.   CAUTION: Under no circumstances should a prying instrument such as a screwdriver or a pry bar be used to install the cable into the quadrant.      1. Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through the hole in the clutch release lever. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly into cable ball pocket on clutch release lever. On 2.3L OHC engines, place cable ball into clevis. Install clevis and clevis pin onto clutch release lever and into clevis pin.    2. Install the clip retainer retaining the cable assembly to the bell housing.    3. Install the dust shield on the bell housing (5.OL).    4. Push the cable assembly into the engine compartment and lower the vehicle. Install cable bracket screw in fender apron.    5. Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the insulator with a screw.    6. Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then pushing the quadrant forward, hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant.    7. Depress clutch pedal several times to adjust cable.
#2370 of 2411 Re: 1992 Diamante by ollie502 Aug 02, 2008 (6:23 am)
Replying to: dangnabbit (Oct 11, 2002 3:18 pm) I have a 1992 Diamante. It is stuck in one gear I replaced the ECM a couple of years ago for another problem. Car sat for a month or so. When I went to drive it, had only one gear plus reverse. All the places that sell ECM say that there is a Transmission Control Unit. I can't find one. I have taken the whole car apart and there is not one. I think the ECM and the TCU are the same unit. I know when there a problem with these cars, the trans goes in to a "fail safe" mode. It will go into reverse very hard and has only one gear. Any body got any ideas what I need to do?? Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Aug 02, 2008 6:32 pm)
#2371 of 2411 Re: [dangnabbit] by josap Aug 02, 2008 (8:19 am)
Replying to: dangnabbit (Oct 11, 2002 3:18 pm) My car is a 92 Metro Automatic. I donot beieve my problem is a computer fault but a sticking valve. I adjusted the cable and added some Lucas conditioner and it seemed to help but the problem will intermittently occur mainly when the car has been driven awhile. After it downshifts it has trouble going into 3rd (highway speeds)
#2372 of 2411 Re: 1992 Diamante [ollie502] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Aug 02, 2008 (6:32 pm)
Replying to: ollie502 (Aug 02, 2008 6:23 am) The book shows a Control Module for the 4-speed automatic in what looks like buried in the console below the ashtray and below the cruise control module.   I hope that's not your problem as that part lists for $629.
#2373 of 2411 2004 chevy tahoe by vwbugg Aug 08, 2008 (10:34 am)
My truck will not engage in any gears. It starts fine but will not go into reverse drive or any other gear... I am new at this . Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!! Its a 2wd chevy tahoe v8 with only 53,000 miles. really great shape never have had any problems with it before. Replies to this message: vapor6969 (Aug 18, 2008 5:28 am)
#2374 of 2411 by vapor6969 Aug 18, 2008 (5:21 am)
can any one tell me if my through out bearing and release lever on an 99 audi a4 quattro do i need to think about just changing the whole clutch kit or will i be ok to change just those items Replies to this message: kiawah (Aug 18, 2008 5:53 am) Mr_Shiftright (Aug 18, 2008 7:59 am)
#2375 of 2411 Re: 2004 chevy tahoe [vwbugg] by vapor6969 Aug 18, 2008 (5:28 am)
Replying to: vwbugg (Aug 08, 2008 10:34 am) it sounds like you got the same problem as me (clutch issues)is your clutch a hydrolic or mechanical if its a hydrolice you might just have air in the lines and there are other test you can do
#2376 of 2411 Re: [vapor6969] by kiawah Aug 18, 2008 (5:53 am)
Replying to: vapor6969 (Aug 18, 2008 5:21 am) Depends on your mileage, whether they are highway miles or local driving, how good of a manual shift driver you are, whether the clutch has been replaced before, and how long you intend to keep the vehicle....etc, etc.   Since you have to open it all up to get to the throw out bearing, you might as well replace the clutch plate (and even consider the pressure plate). If you don't, and then down the road in a year and 15K miles your clutch plate then needs replaced....now you have a whole big labor charge again to tear it apart.   Personally, If I have to open it up ..... I'll replace it all, and then won't have to go into the clutch/transmission again.
#2377 of 2411 Re: [vapor6969] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Aug 18, 2008 (7:59 am)
Replying to: vapor6969 (Aug 18, 2008 5:21 am) I realize Audi parts are atrociously expensive, so it's possible one could examine the clutch parts and put them back in, but if there is any kind of mileage on these parts I'd probably bite the bullet. It's not like an Audi Quattro transmission falls into your hands after removing two bolts. This is not a 1965 Mustang clutch job.   If you are in doubt, have a professional give the parts a really close eyeball. And if you do replace it, use quality parts.
#2378 of 2411 water in transmission, I think by suppo Aug 21, 2008 (9:25 am)
I have a gold/silver cylinder shapped object that is connected to the bottom of the transmission. It appears to be leaking water where the two halfs come together. What is this cylinder? I assume my radiator has a crack inside and is leaking water into the transmission through the lines. What else do I need to do besides replace radiator and flush transmission? Why would water come out and not transmission fluid? Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Aug 21, 2008 9:45 am) suppo (Aug 21, 2008 11:18 am) Mr_Shiftright (Aug 21, 2008 11:46 am) and 4 more...

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