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Transmission Traumas?

2410 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 5:35 PM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
Does Saab have an oversight administration of some sort, such as "district managers" or a rough equivalent? I wonder if such a manufacturer's representative could help out in this sort of situation.
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Replying to: wtd44 (Jul 21, 2008 9:14 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 21, 2008 2:23 pm) I am being told now that since the engine replacement was only 2000 miles ago, that it is possible that they did not line up the transmission correctly when they replaced the engine. Can that happen? Is there a torque alignment for the transmission when the engine is replaced?
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Replying to: misben (Jul 22, 2008 6:17 am) |
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I have been fighting clutch cable problems for about a year now. At first it just started busting the casing around the cable. So I changed the clutch plate pressure plate to bearing fork and pivot ball. Which were all worn out. It lasted for a couple weeks and blew out the cable again. Well this time when I replaced the cable it seems way too loose. And I can't even get it in a gear now. I am at a loss and cant afford to get another car its just not possible I have to fix this one. Any suggestions would be very appreciated. It's a 93 mustang 5.0 mostly stock nothing big modified. I bought it from the original owners who were an older cpl so it hasn't been passed around.
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Replying to: jmurd (Jul 27, 2008 9:12 am) 1. Lift the clutch pedal to its upward most position to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Push the quadrant forward, unhook the cable from the quadrant and allow to slowly swing rearward. 2. Open the hood. Remove the screw retaining cable assembly insulator to the dash panel. 3. Pull the cable through the dash panel and into the engine compartment. Remove cable bracket screw from fender apron. 4. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 5. On 5.OL engines, remove the dust cover from the bell housing. 6. Remove the clip retainer retaining cable assembly to the bell housing. 7. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly through the hole in the clutch release lever and remove the cable. 8. On 2.3L OHC engines, remove hairpin clip, clevis pin and clevis from end of cable. Installation CAUTION: The clutch pedal must be lifted to disengage the adjusting mechanism during cable installation. Failure to do so will result in damage to the self-adjuster mechanism. CAUTION: Under no circumstances should a prying instrument such as a screwdriver or a pry bar be used to install the cable into the quadrant. 1. Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through the hole in the clutch release lever. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly into cable ball pocket on clutch release lever. On 2.3L OHC engines, place cable ball into clevis. Install clevis and clevis pin onto clutch release lever and into clevis pin. 2. Install the clip retainer retaining the cable assembly to the bell housing. 3. Install the dust shield on the bell housing (5.OL). 4. Push the cable assembly into the engine compartment and lower the vehicle. Install cable bracket screw in fender apron. 5. Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the insulator with a screw. 6. Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then pushing the quadrant forward, hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant. 7. Depress clutch pedal several times to adjust cable. |
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Replying to: dangnabbit (Oct 11, 2002 3:18 pm)
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Replying to: dangnabbit (Oct 11, 2002 3:18 pm) |
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Replying to: ollie502 (Aug 02, 2008 6:23 am) I hope that's not your problem as that part lists for $629. |
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My truck will not engage in any gears. It starts fine but will not go into reverse drive or any other gear... I am new at this . Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!! Its a 2wd chevy tahoe v8 with only 53,000 miles. really great shape never have had any problems with it before.
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