Transmission Traumas?

2409 messages, Last post on Nov 27, 2009 at 7:16 AM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Transmission

Outline

Messages Page 237 of 241: 1; ...; 234; 235; 236; 237; 238; 239; 240; 241; Prev; Next; Last

#2360 of 2409 Re: Please help me figure out what is wrong with my Saab's transmission [mi by burdawg Jul 17, 2008 (6:19 pm)
Replying to: misben (Jul 17, 2008 3:33 pm) I've been reading your posts but have been more or less mum on your problems, but I do have one comment. If your getting a low voltage code readout, then why don't they just check the alternator and see if it's working? You could have some other electrical problem that is causing these multiple symptoms and is dragging the voltage down. This could be one of those hard to find electrical malfunctions that only the right experienced person could find. Unfortunately those type of people are hard to find, especially for a Saab. Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 18, 2008 1:46 pm)
#2361 of 2409 Re: Please help me figure out what is wrong with my Saab's transmission [mi by kiawah Jul 17, 2008 (6:49 pm)
Replying to: misben (Jul 17, 2008 3:33 pm) I should do full disclosure here. I've been in your shoes. One of my first vehicles back in the 70's was a used SAAB. I had to tow it home when I bought it and fix it, and that was an indicator of things to come. I had it for about 3 years, and it forever was having something major go wrong with it. The only place you could find parts was at the dealer, and they were way overpriced. The only place that had skills to fix it was at the dealership, and they were way overpriced. I kept it alive and running as long as I could, and finally one day I called up the SAAB dealership, asked them if they wanted to buy it for parts, and they sent a tow truck to haul it back. I would have given it away if I had to. I swore I would NEVER own another SAAB, and haven't. I'd be figuring out the minimum I had to do to unload it. Life's too short to have to worry about vehicles that are un-reliable. Replies to this message: burdawg (Jul 18, 2008 5:46 am)
#2362 of 2409 Re: Please help me figure out what is wrong with my Saab's transmission [mi [kiawah] by burdawg Jul 18, 2008 (5:46 am)
Replying to: kiawah (Jul 17, 2008 6:49 pm) I don't know much about Saabs, and most people say it's better for me if I keep it that way.
#2363 of 2409 Re: Please help me figure out what is wrong with my Saab's transmission [mi by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jul 18, 2008 (1:46 pm)
Replying to: burdawg (Jul 17, 2008 6:19 pm) My feeling exactly. Why doesn't a shop simply test the alternator instead of throwing expensive parts at this car? If the alternator is bad, and we have low voltage throughout the electrical system, that will screw up all the computers in the car anyway and might cause these symptoms. "limp mode" sounds like a good guess, but why can't they read the codes instead of guessing? Does ANYONE know what they are doing here, is the question of the day!
#2364 of 2409 by wtd44 Jul 21, 2008 (9:14 am)
Does Saab have an oversight administration of some sort, such as "district managers" or a rough equivalent? I wonder if such a manufacturer's representative could help out in this sort of situation. Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 21, 2008 2:23 pm) misben (Jul 22, 2008 6:17 am) Mr_Shiftright (Jul 22, 2008 9:24 am)
#2365 of 2409 Re: [wtd44] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jul 21, 2008 (2:23 pm)
Replying to: wtd44 (Jul 21, 2008 9:14 am) Not on this old a car. Saab will just give you the "all our dealers are independent businesses" form letter I fear. Replies to this message: misben (Jul 22, 2008 6:17 am) Mr_Shiftright (Jul 22, 2008 9:24 am)
#2366 of 2409 Re: [Mr_Shiftright] by misben Jul 22, 2008 (6:17 am)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 21, 2008 2:23 pm) That is exactly what I got from them. I had contacted them before because the dealer that replaced the engine had done a terrible job and they had the car there for over 4 months on and off mostly on and always being towed to them. I am being told now that since the engine replacement was only 2000 miles ago, that it is possible that they did not line up the transmission correctly when they replaced the engine. Can that happen? Is there a torque alignment for the transmission when the engine is replaced? Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 22, 2008 9:24 am)
#2367 of 2409 Re: [misben] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jul 22, 2008 (9:24 am)
Replying to: misben (Jul 22, 2008 6:17 am) Sure there are all kinds of ways to screw it up.
#2368 of 2409 clutch cable madness by jmurd Jul 27, 2008 (9:12 am)
I have been fighting clutch cable problems for about a year now. At first it just started busting the casing around the cable. So I changed the clutch plate pressure plate to bearing fork and pivot ball. Which were all worn out. It lasted for a couple weeks and blew out the cable again. Well this time when I replaced the cable it seems way too loose. And I can't even get it in a gear now. I am at a loss and cant afford to get another car its just not possible I have to fix this one. Any suggestions would be very appreciated. It's a 93 mustang 5.0 mostly stock nothing big modified. I bought it from the original owners who were an older cpl so it hasn't been passed around. Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 27, 2008 1:41 pm)
#2369 of 2409 Re: clutch cable madness [jmurd] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jul 27, 2008 (1:41 pm)
Replying to: jmurd (Jul 27, 2008 9:12 am) Removal 1. Lift the clutch pedal to its upward most position to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Push the quadrant forward, unhook the cable from the quadrant and allow to slowly swing rearward. 2. Open the hood. Remove the screw retaining cable assembly insulator to the dash panel. 3. Pull the cable through the dash panel and into the engine compartment. Remove cable bracket screw from fender apron. 4. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 5. On 5.OL engines, remove the dust cover from the bell housing. 6. Remove the clip retainer retaining cable assembly to the bell housing. 7. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly through the hole in the clutch release lever and remove the cable. 8. On 2.3L OHC engines, remove hairpin clip, clevis pin and clevis from end of cable. Installation CAUTION: The clutch pedal must be lifted to disengage the adjusting mechanism during cable installation. Failure to do so will result in damage to the self-adjuster mechanism. CAUTION: Under no circumstances should a prying instrument such as a screwdriver or a pry bar be used to install the cable into the quadrant. 1. Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through the hole in the clutch release lever. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly into cable ball pocket on clutch release lever. On 2.3L OHC engines, place cable ball into clevis. Install clevis and clevis pin onto clutch release lever and into clevis pin. 2. Install the clip retainer retaining the cable assembly to the bell housing. 3. Install the dust shield on the bell housing (5.OL). 4. Push the cable assembly into the engine compartment and lower the vehicle. Install cable bracket screw in fender apron. 5. Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the insulator with a screw. 6. Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then pushing the quadrant forward, hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant. 7. Depress clutch pedal several times to adjust cable.

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