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Maintenance & Repair Transmission Traumas?
2410 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 5:35 PM
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I have a 1999 Ford Escort ZX2 (DOHC). The transmission was rebuilt, but it completely failed 4 1/2 months and 9,600 miles later, while I was driving the vehicle. The car began not working properly about 1 1/2 weeks after I got the car back, and got progessively worse until it failed. The transmission was rebuilt again by another transmission shop. When it was rebuilt, the shop found several mistakes made by the first mechanic. The second transmission shop issued the following report: 1) Forward friction plate located on top of dished plate. Correct location is on top of bottom forward steel plate, causing incorrect placement of forward friction and steel plates. 2) N-R accumulator piston and springs located in the 2-3 accumulator piston bore. 3) 2-3 accumulator piston and springs located in the N-R accumlator piston bore. 4) Sprag was out of position in the housing causing a bind up. Problem was caused by improper installation or sprag failure. 5) Excessive clutch friction and steel plate damage was found throughout transaxle. I have a couple questions. 1) Would the above mistakes cause a transmission to fail?, and if so, how? 2) The first mechanic claims that it would be impossible to put the N-R accumulator piston and springs in the 2-3 accumulator piston bore and vice versa. Is he correct in saying this, or is it possible to switch them? In essence, he's saying that the second transmission shop's report is wrong in that respect. Thanks, Dan |
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Have noticed in the past month with increasing problem that my tacoma is reaching RPM's up to 4000 to shift from 2nd to 3rd gear. At first thought tranny may be cold as that is when it began to show but now is continuing to be a problem after being on the road for hour or more. Any suggestions or comments will be greatly appreciated before heading to the mechanics or dealers. thanks and have a great holiday season.
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Replying to: divndoc (Dec 12, 2006 10:12 am) have you ever serviced the transmission? perhaps the fluid is loosing it's properties or you have some clogged passages. |
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Ok, I have an 06 mustang and just got a call from the dealer saying that the clutch is worn down all the way, he mentioned that it had been like this for quite awhile. I have not experienced shifting problems until the day I had it towed in. This car is my baby, heck I almost need to get a shot gun so birds don't poo on it. so here si my question. After 14,500 miles why is the clutch worn? I do not ride the clutch and as odd as it sounds I do not spin my tires every chance I get. When I down shift say I am in 5th I will DS to NET and then use the breaks the rest of the way. I do have a traction control system on the car and not sure as that is always on if that would cause any problems and if I should disengage it. Any information would be wonderful, it is a 5 speed Premium Coup with interior and pony package 
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I have a 2001 rav4 4wd with 70K miles. Recently the automatic transmission is not shifting correctly at time. The car is not shifting correctly at 1st and 2nd gear. Sometime it almost feels like it is starting up in 2nd gear (no power). The car will lurch when shifting between 1st and 2nd and sometimes 2nd to 3rd. If you're driving behind me, it looks like I'm a new manual transmission driver. The problem only occurs from time to time. I've noticed if I have not driven the car for couple of days, it works fine for up to a whole day. I took it to the dealer and after ruling the electrical connections, they said it was the transmission. I then took it to another shop which said it was electrical (the check engine light had came on after the dealer visit) and replaced some solenoids but that didn't fix the problem. The check engine light came on again with the same error codes and replacing the solenoids a second time did not help. Anyone experience this before? I don't want to spend any more money having people guess at what the problem is.
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I have a very interesting problem with my '97 escort. I was getting a scraping rotational noise (just noise, the response, feel, and function is all the same) when the clutch petal was depressed. I took it to three different mechanics, all of whom said it was likely the Throwout Bearing, and that the whole clutch may as well be replaced while they were in there. I got it replaced, then drove to Michigan for the holidays. Near the end of my return trip, the clutch started making the same noise (about 1000 miles later, almost all highway). So in a nutshell, I replaced the clutch, and 1000 miles later, it started having the same problem. What could cause a clutch to break? I'm thinking alignment, wheel bearings (I do get some front end vibration at high speeds), pilot bearings, bad CV joint... I don't know. Seems like something on the way to the wheel that's out of whack and stressing out the clutch. Does any of that sound plausible? Anyone else have any idea what could cause a clutch to go out, or do we think it was improperly installed? What do you all think? Thanks!
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Replying to: buzzsaw007 (Dec 28, 2006 5:30 am) If you are saying that the clutch burned itself down to the rivets after 1,000 miles, and if you didn't abuse it in any way (rocking back and forth in snow, stop light burn-outs, etc.), then I'd say it was not properly installed or again, the parts are defective. |
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I don't know where to start.... I had my tranny rebuilt & replaced at the GM dealer in 2004. I've only driven 23K on this tranny. Last week, driving down the freeway, check engine light comes on, goes out and truck loses power. Then, it won't go more that 60K without overrevving (up to 4500 RPM). It won't shift. Dealer says that the computer codes say engine misfire, but nothing to do with tranny. Tranny fluid was low, and smells burnt. Dealer says that truck caused tranny problems, so won't take care of it. They want me to replace it to the tune of 3K. NO TRANNMISSION failure code on the computer diagnosis. Could this be something other than the tranny or am I S.O.L.?
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Replying to: daylyn (Dec 29, 2006 8:33 pm) With your fluid being low, that's not a good thing for you in your argument for compensation. I'd say that if you scream loudly enough, and if the dealer offers some kind of 50-50 split on the rebuild, I'd take that offer and try to remember that over the course of the next few years, the cost of this misfortune won't be so bad on a year to year basis.
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Replying to: darvinb (Oct 19, 2005 2:46 pm) |
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