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Maintenance & Repair Transmission Traumas?
2410 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 5:35 PM
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Replying to: abigailm (Sep 13, 2006 5:31 pm) Ash |
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I have a 2000 Accord, it had its transmission replaced in 05 under a 7 yr extended warranty due to high failure rates. For the last few weeks it has been revving really high before shifting the first couple of shifts after starting in the morning. Last week it wouldn't enagage D4, just kept stalling, but engaged D3. After warming up was fine, but it raised 2 failure codes, P0730 and P0780. This only happened once, but it is continuing to revv high (6000 RPM) first couple of shifts, seems like it misses for a split second, then engages. Honda confirms that the ext warranty still is in effect on mine for 2 months. Took it to a local dealer who read the codes, but said that since it didn't re-occur during his 20 min test drive his conclusion is that there is nothing wrong with it. Is this a reasonable response from him? I'd thing that 2 failure codes against the transmission, plu smy description would clearly indicate something wrong, regardless of what happened during his test drive. I'm nervous about how this might fail (in traffic, making a left, etc). Curious what people think... |
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while driving toward a stop sign i down shift from 3rd gear to 1st gear "manual 5 speed" I felt resistance as i tried to put the stick into first and as i let off the clutch I heard a "clunk" now my car wont go in reverse 1st or any gear... one weird thing... after i pushed it and towed it home.. i went to push it up the drive way did that fine.. i went to push it back down to two tow it to a garage... it felt like the parking break was on finally i pushed the clutch in and got the car rolling let off the clutch and it rolled freely as if some gear had let off.. does anyone have any advise on how to trouble shoot my problem and get my car rolling again..thanks 
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I am now the owner of a 1997 Accord EX with about 101k miles. This has replaced a 1997 Civic (don't ask, my daughter had her first accident - a good one - as no one was hurt) and the first thing I noticed is that the accord has a very different tranny characteristics in that it shifts very mechanically and distinctly. My garage I have used for years checked it out before I purchased and they said it's typical for this yr Accord - I'm ok with that. When reading up on accord transmissions in the 94-97 maint forum I see a few folks that say... 'honda only recommends draining and refilling and not flushing the transmission'. Now I would say *most* folks respond that its better to flush, but there is that dissenting opinion. So (finally) my question, when the mileage indicates it's time for a trans service (i think that was every 30K), is it OK to flush this tranny? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.  Bob in Tampa, FL
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Replying to: bobintampa (Nov 13, 2006 2:51 pm) |
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I have a '90 Nissan 240sx se with about 170xxx original miles. The transmission is original, the clutch is hydrolic and supposedly replace about 30xxx mile ago by the previous owner. About 4 months ago, I lost all fluid all at once, no warning. I was a long long way from home. I dumped fluid in it about every 20 miles to get home. When I got home I replaced the slave cylinder and master cylinder. I could not get the system to bleed out. I tried for the most of three days. Upon checking around, I found other people had this problem, too. I bypassed the 'dampening' box. It is suppose to take the vibration out of the clutch pedal. I was then able to bleed the clutch out. The clutch has never felt right from the day that I bought the car, at least to me: pedal way up top, a little spongey. When I got the car there was a build-up in the master cylinder of a sludge type stuff (never seen anything like it). I flushed everything out. The seal in the master cylinder looked a little 'eaten' and so I was not suprised when it went out. It looked like someone added heavy weight grease in it (it is not suppose to have grease in it). Anyway, that was a while ago. Now, without warning, other than I never thought it was quite right, it does not want to engage first gear. By this I mean that I have to ride the clutch to get it to take off. It is not the synchronizers, it shifts into the proper position. It seems like it is not engaging in first: have to ride the clutch, rev the motor, and the vehicle hops. It shifts into the other gears just fine, once it is moving. I am not very familiar with clutches, other than basic concepts and how to drive them (and I know that hydrolic has a different feel, so that is not it either), I am thinking that the clutch plate is worn thin. Does this sound right or does anyone have any other suggestions?
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Replying to: echota (Nov 18, 2006 8:49 am) If you're saying that at a stop you can't get it into gear at all, and you have to shut the engine off and start the car in gear to get going, then you have hydraulic problems again. |
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 I'll tell the whole story later, but let me get to my question. If someone drains your automatic transmission and pours oil into it, rather than transmission fluid, what all needs to be done to correct the problem? Short story: My tail pipe was blowing white smoke and the transmission was not working correctly You may need the additional "long story" below. The mechanic is flushing out the tranny and changing the filter, but is there anything else I should do (besides having my mechanic check the car at their expense, having them refund my money for the oil change, and having them give me a 180 day warranty on anything that goes wrong with my transmission--that is what I plan on asking for tomorrow when I pick it up). Here is the long story: I went to Firestone to get the oil changed on my Subaru Forester. They supposedly changed the oil. After driving a couple of miles, my transmission slipped as I turned at a traffic light. It was as if the car was in neutral. I then drove to drop off a DVD and while sitting at the drop off box, I heard a sound I had not heard before. It sounded kind of like a faint crackling sound. I then drove across the street to the grocery store. When I left the grocery store, my car was pouring out white smoke (granted, my Forester with 90,000+ miles on it leaks a little oil, but has never poured white smoke). I also noticed that it was not driving well and just sort of would not go. I turned into a parking lot and looked under the hood. I cranked the car up and saw that a big puff of white smoke immediately, then it settled into a steady, but faint stream, of white smoke. I re-started the car and tried to drive it back to the Firestone. The car just would not drive right. I finally gave up and Firestone sent a tow truck (Gotta give it to them for that--they were very timely and did not ask questions). While I was waiting, I looked underneath, but did not see anything visibly leaked or leaking. I did notice that the tranny plug had something bright orange (not dirty like the underside of a car at all) on it and that it looked damp for about an inch radius around it. I touched it, but it was damp, not wet. I was not sure what to think about that. (I thought about taking a picture of it with my cell phone camera, but chose not to for some idiotic reason--remember this for the future: cell phone pictures are free!!!) When I got the car back, a young "mechanic" drove it and said that it drove fine, but that maybe the high mileage oil they used made it smoked. I told him that I did not think it was my imagination that it was driving very, very poorly. He talked to his manager who disagreed that high mileage oil could cause this. They checked the oil and said the level was fine (I really wasn't thinking straight or I would have noticed that the oil on the dip stick was black--I remembered this later.) I asked him to check the tranny fluid--which I think he was starting to do without starting the car, until I told him that the car had to be started to check the tranny fluid. He pulled the dip stick and showed me that it was full (again, I later recalled that what showed up on the dip stick was tan and not reddish like tranny fluid). I went back in the waiting room. While in the waiting room, I saw they'd lifted the car--so, I hurriedly walked out to see what they were doing. Another young kid had a wrench on what I was pretty certain was the transmission plug. I did not say a word. The manager then told him that that was the tranny plug. I spoke up and said that that is was what I thought. I asked him what the orange color on the tranny plug was and he said that they always did that to mark that they'd put a wrench to it. I asked him when it was put on and he said the guy had just put it on. I said that wasn't true--that I saw the orange marker on the plug while waiting for the tow truck. The manager said he wanted to check the fluid levels. I told him that the other guys had and he said, but I haven't (Obviously, he did not even trust them.) Anyway, long story short, somehow this guy had drained my tranny and refilled it with oil. I do not understand how he did this. The oil fill and dip stick are bright yellow and right at the front when the hood is lifted. I do not know how he figured out where the tranny fluid went--without also figuring out that he'd made a mistake--is beyond me.
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Replying to: captserviss (Sep 12, 2006 8:37 pm) A Trans Specialty shop pinpointed the problem as a faulty "neutral switch." I think it does more than sense neutral, probably what used to be called the PRNDL sensor. When warm, it lies to the ECU about what gear the tranny's in. They replace it for $146 plus $50 labor, problem solved. My 110,000 mile tranny works fine now. |
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Replying to: shan_phil (Nov 26, 2006 7:11 pm) Get a qualified opinion. You may need a trans rebuild. Be sure to document anything the Firestone people say. This is why they carry insurance. |
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Maintenance & Repair Transmission Traumas?
