Last post on May 04, 2009 at 10:24 PM
You are in the Speed Shop Tuning and Modification
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#1 of 72 Just got for my Lexus 97 ES 300
Jun 07, 2000 (7:50 pm)
Just wanted to put in the good word for Mike at
Joshua Tree. His site is www.woodtrim.com and I am
really happy with his service and the kit. I will
install it tomorrow and let you know how it went.
Looks pretty simple if you follow the directions
and take your time. I found some cheaper kits on
the web, but Mike's are really well made and come
with a guarantee. No laser marks or cheap flat
pieces. I think he can make a kit for just about
any make so check it out if you are interested. I
am not affiliated with their business - so this is
a genuine recommendation
#2 of 72 Installed the kit today
Jun 08, 2000 (3:58 pm)
It was easy but nerve racking. I suggest that if you do not have steady hands, to find someone who does. I read that if you have a ziebart in your town they will do it for a nominal cost. I did it myself and it really makes my luxury car look even more luxurious. Be careful, you only have one shot once the tape backing is removed. I followed the directions to a tee so don't take any shortcuts. Definitley worth the $200 I spent to do it!
#3 of 72 Wood kit for 4RUNNERs
Jun 17, 2000 (8:55 pm)
I recently had a local shop order me a wood kit for my 2000 4RUNNER. The company who makes it is Woodview. You can see them www.woodcorp.com
I had them install it for me. Time just wasn't something I had alot of, plus I wasn't comfortable installing it (alot of parts). But the finished results are spectacular. It is not real wood, but it gets alot of comments from friends and the dealer who sold me my 4RUNNER.
I went with English Burlwood for me tan interior.
Good luck. I also did look at Joshua tree, but I wanted to have it installed for me.
#4 of 72 Mustang Kit
Jun 22, 2000 (4:07 am)
I've been considering a kit on a Mustang Convert. w/ Parchment (Tan) interior. Anybody do a Mustang yet? Also, does anybody know who supplies "molded" kits? I've found plenty of flat kits, but not many molded.
#5 of 72 Mustang Kit
Jun 22, 2000 (4:19 pm)
I am in the trim business and I'm not aware of any manufacturer that offers a "molded" kit for the Mustang.
Keep in mind though, that even flat kits can be applied to some curved surfaces (within reason of course)if you carefully heat them prior to application. It is critical that the surface has been thoroughly cleaned (with alcohol) and that you use "adhesive promotor" to enchance the bonding.
It takes some skill and care, but it can often be done.
#6 of 72 Wood Dash Kit for 2000 4Runner
Jun 27, 2000 (12:12 am)
Just got my 2000 SR5 4Runner and would like to install a wood dash kit. I have come across many web sites and was hoping I could get some advice on which companies make a top of the line product.Email me if you like. BobbioPaol.com
#7 of 72 re: Wood Dash Kit for 2000 4Runner
Jun 27, 2000 (10:26 pm)
There are several of kits made for the 4Runner both in synthetic "Wood" (light or dark burl) or in real rosewood or walnut burl. There are also "factory match" kits available (should your 4Runner have some factory wood in it already), and carbon fiber for that high-tech look.
If you'd like some more info, you are welcome to e-mail me at autostockhome.com
#8 of 72 Jackfactor - trim installation
Aug 17, 2000 (4:17 pm)
I just bought a 2000 Infiniti G20t with some wood trim around the gear shift. I think it looks great and want to finish the rest with a match. I looked at the Joshua tree site and it seems they have it for a reasonable price. But I am concerned about installing it myslef. I am pretty careful with stuff like this but don't want to screw it up. How long does it take? Did all the pieces fit perfectly without a need to "force" them into place? Does anyone know the lifespan of the trim? Will really hot weather, high humidity or cold weather affect it?
#9 of 72 Trim installations
Aug 23, 2000 (9:12 pm)
Don't worry too much! The recent innovation of the glue is great! As long as you are not in the coldest climate, you'll do just fine.
When you get the kit, make sure there is no scratch on any of the parts. Then inspect for dry fit. (Put all the parts where they go without removing the backing) They should fit perfectly, if not, a slight sandpaper should do a trick. (But do not sand the surface of the trim! Just the sides!)
If applying on to the curved surface, lightly force it to meet that curve. (Don't over do it and crack the thin wood film) If that curve is so intense, a hair dryer blow will do the job.
If you need to drill a hole for let's say a security LED, press the part against it so that it leaves a mark of that LED location, and drill the hole from the back side of the part, at slow rpm. Once everything is in place, (dry fitted)
clean the surface with the included wet towel
(alcohol) to clean the surface where the glue is going to attach VERY WELL! If you have any of the chemical stuff such as Armorall or something, it will either not stick and ruin the glue, or won't last as long... This is really important.
Then remove only 1/3 of the backing from the piece and apply to the surface. Just a small amount of opening is fine. Once you fix the position, slide the rest of the backing slowly, and press and hold against the surface for a while until it seems to hold on to the surface on it's own. The piece applied to the curved surface, the longer you might want to press and hold. Repeat for all parts. I recommend the window tinting if it's not illegal in your area to keep the direct sun light off from them. Hot and humid shouldn't affect the parts as much as the direct sun light which could fade the plastic color...(Seen the back plastic window of Open cars? Yap, got the picture...)
Overnight it at the cool place and you are done!
The key is how well you clean the surface before applying the pieces.
#10 of 72 nowayjose
Aug 23, 2000 (10:21 pm)
Thanks for all the advice. You sound like a pro. Do you do this for a living or something? Did you install some in your car? If so, where did you buy it from?