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SUVs Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Cherokee
2529 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 7:57 PM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
| Thanks for the information. Let me see if I understand now how the part-time 4 wd works. What you are saying is as long as the wheels can slip in turns, even a little, then the length of time you keep the 4 wd engaged isn't a concern -- even if it is engaged for months? I would drive in 2wd for a few hours then put it back in four thinking that would make a difference, but it probably doesn't? While driving in 2, it was unstable and I'd prefer not to do that until the snow melts. As for the other posting (bennie 99) today, I agree. The roads here are close to third world out of the city of Yellowknife because of permafrost. There is 140 km of gravel road driving into Yellowknife, even though it is a capital city. In winter the highway is just covered in packed snow. But in summer when it rains, it just turns to mud (imagine spring thaw). The Cherokee is perfect for these conditions. Right now I have to travel on an ice road across the Great Slave Lake to a First Nations community every week for my work. The traction is wicked and I feel very safe and comfortable in all conditions. I've put 20,000 km on my Cherokee Sport so far and it has been perfect. I want it to stay that way which is why I check out sites like this. Anyway, thanks again for the information. By the way, the summers may be short here but they are amazing, 24 hours of sunlight and the best fishing in the world. Winters, well with a snowmachine and a Cherokee it's not that bad. Later, Dane. | |
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What, there's a shortcut to Detah or you going further? I've driven a minivan up there, but don't think I'd want to try that this time of year (not sure I'd wanna try it in a Cherokee right now<g>). Steve Host SUV and Vans Message Boards |
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| Yes, there is an ice road to Dettah built every year. I also have to drive to Fort Resolution (Deninu Kue First Nation) which is 600 km around the lake. You go through Hay River and it's the only community on the other side. For fun though, me and a buddy are going to drive the Lupin ice road, maybe this weekend because it just opened. The Lupin ice road was built to allow big rigs to haul supplies to the diamond mines (BHP--operating mine) and (Diavik--under construction). It crosses six lakes and goes all the way to the barrenlands (about 300 km). We're hoping to see Muskox at the barrenlands but we always see things like Wolverine, rabbit, bear, silver-haired fox, lynx, sometimes wolf, and a whole host of other wildlife. As for the drive in winter, I went home for Christmas (Vancouver) and on the way back there had been a huge dump of snow past High Level. Many big trucks were in the ditch, there was no plowing being done (that I could see), and I made it through no problem. And that is one hell of a long stretch. Anyway, don't try the Lupin ice road in a mini-van. Later, Dane. | |
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Sounds like a fun trip! (enjoy the view from the "skyscraper" in Hay River). I took a right to go to Wood Buffalo, and skipped Ft. Resolution. Maybe next time:-) Steve Host SUV and Vans Message Boards |
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Here's what might happen: The front driveshaft is chain driven. While a chain is strong, it doesn't compare to a gear. I don't have any personal experience with this, nor do I personally know anyone that has either. However, I've heard "rumors" that prolonged use of the front driveshaft can stretch the chain, causing it, at some point, to start slipping within the transfer case. Though for what you are doing, I wouldn't change your driving habit at all. Just be aware that this "might" occur.
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Replying to: bblaha (Feb 05, 2001 10:43 am) I have an '88 Cherokee Pioneer, 162k, 4.0, 5sp man 4wd, cloth seats, power st/br (I think this was a package), Colorado Red. I bought it in (I think) Feb'96 with 111k, I paid the previous owner $4100 cash for it. The previous owner had just put new tires on it, I put a new set on last fall. The body is fair, no debilitating rust but a few dings (one is a particularly annoying ding in the the rear window joist from an ornery tail gating truck driver but thats another story, a slightly bent front bumper (NYC fender bender 3 days after I had it replaced grrr) and the pass side rear view mirror is epoxied in place (it was broken when I boght it but didnt notice till an auto-wash broke it off, of course they said nada, I heard it flapping in the breze on the way home) I have it securely in place but now every other "brushless" car wash knocks it off so I dont get it washed often enough- I've resolved to start taking it to a self wash I've found (they aren't that common around here- here being North Jersey near NYC). I daydream about getting these blemishes fixed... Besides it's little aches and pains since I bought it I've had to replace the clutch master cylinder/slave twice(one goes, the other follows);once about a year ago just recently; and the clutch pedal. The first time going into the tranny for the slave we did the clutch too,so it has a pretty new clutch with maybe 10k on it. We were both pretty confounded that these parts went so quick- Checking on the warranty with the parts wholesaler my mechanic (Matt) was told by the wholesaler that he gets this story about old jeeps all the time- That the firewall has a manufacturing deficiency (too thin?) and that high mileage jeeps go thru these parts quickly because the deformation causes the plunger to move at an errant angle (hence the clutch pedal failing- it was "clicking" and eventually quit working)? What does anyone with any knowledge think of this? The kickers are that this last time the slave cylinder went I was caught in traffic (with no clutch!) I was less than a mile from my garage and on the way to being late for a very important appointment so rather than pull over and call AAA and have it the truck towed in I forced it to start by cranking it and jamming it into gear. I >did< start it and made it to the garage in one piece, the clutch works again but now it grinds unless I apply just the right touch shifting into third. My mechanic (who I trust implicitly, he is in the neighborhood, is reasonable and has done all my auto work the past 10 years)says the only way to fix this problem is to rebuild the tranny (gulp) He gave me a ballpark estimate today of $1500-1700. The other issue is NJ's emiisions laws which I need to check into a little further. The last time I needed to get it inspected(generally once a year in NJ I think) my mechanic warned me that that the new equipment private inspection stations had been required to get was very expensive and the test very stringent and pass/fail only ($80 please)and that I would be better off going to the state inspection station(free), they were still using the old style. So I went, I passed and received an extended inspection thru 2002. I'm not sure what all this was about, all I knew was that was "in" but I'm wondering what is going to happen next inspection? Will I be "grandfathered" in or forced to do an expensive? emissions system overhaul? Or just flat out failed and told I cant drive the car anymore. I need to get more info about this- Does anybody know anything? They do some screwball "car things" in this state sometimes. So ther dilemma is whether to get the tranny job done or dump the car (I think its trade in is about $500-$1280) The tranny job is roughly the amount of a puny down payment on a new vehicle. Then I'm looking at 5 or 6 years at about $300/mo plus comp insurance (I presently only carry liability- but a lot) But still thinking about issues with my good'ol Jeep... I really have enjoyed this truck and have relished >not< being under car and insurance payment pressures after enduring same (as student no less.) Once again... Ideas, insights, advice appreciated. RH
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Hi all - Just purchased my 5th Jeep, but it's my first Cherokee. I've been spoiled, since I bought and just recently sold a 2000 wrangler (financial reasons - miss it terribly). Now I'm the proud owner of a '96 Cherokee Sport 4D, auto 6 with 50K miles. It feels solid, runs great (slight clunk when accelerating), no frills except AC. I think I got a great deal. Just need to know what to expect with an older Cherokee. Has there been any serious problems noted with this year? This place was instrumental in helping me with the Wrangler. I'm sure I'll get the same great advice on the Cherokee. Any info will help. Thanks. Rick
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Hi all, It's me again. I have a question about the suspension on the Cherokee Sport. I was driving with three adults in the back seat and on every little bump it seems like the suspension bottomed out. At least that's what it sounded like and felt like. The passengers pointed it out and I argued with them, saying that the suspension on the Jeep is stiff. I talked about the uni-body frame and such, but didn't know what the hell I was talking about. I said there was no way it could be bottoming out on such small bumps because of the clearance it had. The springs may have been stiff because it was -32, I said. But the passengers argued with me. Is this normal? To be honest, I've noticed a similar clunk, usually under the rear wheels (or wheel)on bumps even while driving by myself. I thought it was normal for this type of vehicle. Is it? Because my Cherokee Sport is brand new, I can't imagine there being serious suspension problems. I haven't done any seriously hard 4x4 driving or anything. Deep snow and ice but not to bad. It still feels secure to drive, I mean it doesn't bounce around or anything. Any insights into this? Thanks, Dane.
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Humor me here . . . I have a new cherokee sport and I think its a great vehicle. This is my first 4x4 WITHOUT a slip differential so I have some concerns. First, it seems that pt 4wd significantly effects the vehicle's turning radius. The front wheels are forcing the jeep wide on normal turns (in snow, etc.) Second, because the front wheels MUST be able to slip, command track contradicts the purpose of having 4wd. My jeep loses traction in turns whereas 4x4s I drove in the past added traction in turns. I'd appreciate any opinions |
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| That's pretty much the way it works. Command Trac locks the front and rear, so they will drive equally instead of shifting power back and forth. For never leaving the road, Selec-trac is obviously the better choice. I haven't noticed the front sliding around much in the snow, but I don't take turns very fast either. I don't drive any differently in 4X4 than I do in 4X2 so that helps. I also tend to leave it in 4X2 unless the snow is really deep, then shift in when I really need traction. The rear wheels seem to do an excellent job by themselves for the most part. The solid front axle also contributes to the Jeeps steering issues. | |
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