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SUVs Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Cherokee
2526 messages, Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 7:50 AM
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Replying to: mataus (Mar 10, 2009 11:56 pm) |
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Replying to: mataus (Mar 10, 2009 11:56 pm) Make sure you have the same V pattern on the fulcrum as what is on the rocker arm and you will be fine. |
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Hi all, bought a 2000 Cherokee Classic late last year, thing is basically in brand-new condition inside and out and is really a beautiful little truck. It has the 4.0L inline-6 with 207,000 highway kilometres on it and makes lots of power, but there is a definite 'rubbing' or 'vibration' at speed that seems to come and go. I noticed one poster mentioned that he solved this problem by replacing the driveshaft holder so I'll give that a try. However, a short time after I bought it, one morning while sitting in a drive-thru the temperature spiked up, then the check gauge light came on. I shut it off immediately, to let it cool down then started it up and got out of the lane and to a gas station where I found the overflow tank bone dry. Filled it up with 50/50 mix and the temperature was back to normal for a little while when it started to spike again. Checked the tank, again it was dry. No leaks or anything anywhere at all, oil was clean but I could smell antifreeze now and again while driving. So I ran like this for a while, constantly checking the level and adding to it to keep the temperature normal and then decided to try some radiator sealant as we figured I might have pinholes in it that were letting off coolant and evaporating on the motor which is possibly why I couldn't see it anywhere but could smell it. Lo and behold, temperature and missing coolant problem solved but almost the very next day my oil pressure, which until that point had been just fine, started to drop after the engine warmed up. When starting cold it will maintain a steady 35 or so psi but as soon as normal operating temperature is reached it will drop down to maybe 5 or 10 based on the gauge. Revving it up or driving will bring it back up quickly close to 30psi but never more than that, and dropping the idle back down drops the oil pressure (again based on the gauge) as well. I've replaced the oil pressure sender with no luck, and now I've just changed the oil with a fresh filter just on the off-chance there was sludge build-up. I know I need to check the pressure with a manual gauge to confirm, but I'm wondering if someone can clue me in as to why this may have happened right after my temperature issue. If my pump is worn out would I get these symptoms? I really hope it's not a bearing issue as I can barely afford to replace the pump myself, if I have to, let alone doing the bearings, but I really don't want to keep driving it with this issue. Thanks for any feedback!
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Replying to: land_shark (Mar 26, 2009 5:22 pm) I believe you would get the oil pressure symptoms prior to your oil pump failing. The only way to properly diagnose it is to put a gauge on it. |
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I thought at first that I had a head gasket issue as well, but after putting the radiator seal in the smell has gone and it doesn't take any coolant at all, anymore so it must have been the rad, unless the sealant was able to seal the break in the head gasket? It did claim to be able to do that, so I suppose it's possible. It just seems wierd that as soon as that problem was solved, the other oil pressure issue immediately cropped up. I'll put a gauge on it to see what the real pressure is, for sure.
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I own a 96 Jeep cherokee sport 4(L) 4x4. I recently had to change out the computer. I found a cheap (free) one from a junk 2000. Put it in and the jeep started right up and runs fine, Only the engine light and generator light stay on. It won't pass e-check that way so I am in need of the right computer. I cant afford to buy a new one and junk yards dont have them. Help...... 
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Replying to: land_shark (Mar 27, 2009 7:47 am) Edit: my Haynes manual says the oil pressure at idle should be 13 psi and over 1600 rpm should be 37 to 75psi; I'm actually not far off of that, should I even be worried?
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| Hi all - new problem I'm having with my 1995 4-cyl (I know, I know) Cherokee. There's some sort of electrical connection which has a wire from the battery (?) and clicks into a "fitting" (sort of like a plug) which looks like it goes into the engine block. It's located just in front of the distributor cap on the passengers side. It came to my attention, because there's what appears to be a mixture of gas and oil seeping up thru it. What is this and what would cause this seepage (I can start it up with this thing "unplugged")? Still starts and runs (although I've had trouble starting as of late). Is she nearing the end?... | |
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Replying to: salinity (Mar 29, 2009 6:50 am) oil pressure sensor (the elec tape is there to prevent the white part on top from popping off). So, is it likely that some sort of diaphragm within the sensor unit is compromised and that's causing seepage into the top connector? If I were to replace this, apart from draining the oil, is there a way to prevent oil from pouring out when I remove the old sensor unit (if it would even pour out)? Any other advice pertaining to replacing this is appreciated.
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Replying to: salinity (Mar 29, 2009 10:28 am) If it is the oil sensor and it is in the side of the engine block, you won't even need to drain the oil. All of the oil will be in the pan when the engine is not running. Just pull it out and install the new one. Put a little bit of oil on the O-ring if it has one and reconnect the electrical connection. Good luck! |
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