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SUVs Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Cherokee
2529 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 7:57 PM
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i have a 06 grand cherokee 4.7L. driver side tail light won't work. replaced bulbs, no luck. replaced whole light assembly, still no luck. blinker, brake, and reverse all work fine on both sides, just no luck with the driver side tail light. anybody have any idea or suggestions for me.
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Replying to: rak1934 (Jan 15, 2009 7:16 pm) You could also try putting a little dielectric grease in the connector after making sure the pins are seated correctly.
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Replying to: paule (Jan 16, 2009 5:49 pm) |
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I hope someone can help me... I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer 4x4 auto with a 4.0 liter straight 6. I went ahead and removed the head from the Jeep because I was getting an excessive amount of oil coming out from under the head. It was evident the head seal needed to be replaced. So of course I went thru the whole process of removing the head from the block. Once I drained all the fluids, I went ahead and removed the valve cover. Once I did that, I went ahead and loosened the cap screws at each bridge pivot assembly. Then I remove the pivot assembly. And then the rocker arms. And then of course the push rods. When looking into the condition of all the parts pulled, a couple of the push rods weren't as straight as all the others. So I went ahead and bought a new set. The bridge pivot assembly and rocker arms are in good condition with no excessive wear. One thing I didn't think about when I pulled everything out was keeping track of which rocker arm went to each pivot assembly. I'm usually pretty good about detail, but I spaced this one out. On each pivot assembly, there are two indentations that run down each pivot. It looks something like this below. Some are matched up, and some are different. I hope there's someone out there who knows what I'm talking about. The bottom of the rocker arms has the same indentations as well. Being there are six cylinders there are obviously 6 pivot assemblies. They are as follows... [/\----/\] [/\----/\] [/\----/\] 3 are the same [\/----\/] [\/----\/] 2 are the same [/\---\/] One is odd I don't know if this makes sense to anyone. If so, please let me know if there is a way to resolve this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated... Maddy 
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Replying to: mataus (Mar 10, 2009 11:56 pm) |
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Replying to: mataus (Mar 10, 2009 11:56 pm) Make sure you have the same V pattern on the fulcrum as what is on the rocker arm and you will be fine. |
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Hi all, bought a 2000 Cherokee Classic late last year, thing is basically in brand-new condition inside and out and is really a beautiful little truck. It has the 4.0L inline-6 with 207,000 highway kilometres on it and makes lots of power, but there is a definite 'rubbing' or 'vibration' at speed that seems to come and go. I noticed one poster mentioned that he solved this problem by replacing the driveshaft holder so I'll give that a try. However, a short time after I bought it, one morning while sitting in a drive-thru the temperature spiked up, then the check gauge light came on. I shut it off immediately, to let it cool down then started it up and got out of the lane and to a gas station where I found the overflow tank bone dry. Filled it up with 50/50 mix and the temperature was back to normal for a little while when it started to spike again. Checked the tank, again it was dry. No leaks or anything anywhere at all, oil was clean but I could smell antifreeze now and again while driving. So I ran like this for a while, constantly checking the level and adding to it to keep the temperature normal and then decided to try some radiator sealant as we figured I might have pinholes in it that were letting off coolant and evaporating on the motor which is possibly why I couldn't see it anywhere but could smell it. Lo and behold, temperature and missing coolant problem solved but almost the very next day my oil pressure, which until that point had been just fine, started to drop after the engine warmed up. When starting cold it will maintain a steady 35 or so psi but as soon as normal operating temperature is reached it will drop down to maybe 5 or 10 based on the gauge. Revving it up or driving will bring it back up quickly close to 30psi but never more than that, and dropping the idle back down drops the oil pressure (again based on the gauge) as well. I've replaced the oil pressure sender with no luck, and now I've just changed the oil with a fresh filter just on the off-chance there was sludge build-up. I know I need to check the pressure with a manual gauge to confirm, but I'm wondering if someone can clue me in as to why this may have happened right after my temperature issue. If my pump is worn out would I get these symptoms? I really hope it's not a bearing issue as I can barely afford to replace the pump myself, if I have to, let alone doing the bearings, but I really don't want to keep driving it with this issue. Thanks for any feedback!
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Replying to: land_shark (Mar 26, 2009 5:22 pm) I believe you would get the oil pressure symptoms prior to your oil pump failing. The only way to properly diagnose it is to put a gauge on it. |
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I thought at first that I had a head gasket issue as well, but after putting the radiator seal in the smell has gone and it doesn't take any coolant at all, anymore so it must have been the rad, unless the sealant was able to seal the break in the head gasket? It did claim to be able to do that, so I suppose it's possible. It just seems wierd that as soon as that problem was solved, the other oil pressure issue immediately cropped up. I'll put a gauge on it to see what the real pressure is, for sure.
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I own a 96 Jeep cherokee sport 4(L) 4x4. I recently had to change out the computer. I found a cheap (free) one from a junk 2000. Put it in and the jeep started right up and runs fine, Only the engine light and generator light stay on. It won't pass e-check that way so I am in need of the right computer. I cant afford to buy a new one and junk yards dont have them. Help...... 
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