Jeep Cherokee

Replying to: onebear (Dec 04, 2008 10:18 pm)

sounds like you snapped a cv/u joint..have ut towed,to avoid further damage-after you've done your phone work..look for someone who specialises in jeep service,as there are special tools for 4 wheel drive..
if you shop for the cheapest guy,he may not do all the little extras that might save you more work later on..
  you also don't want the mecanic who'se trying to bring everything back to new--it's NOT new..it's got 180k on it!..but-with proper service,they can last to 500k
but you don't do that by snapping a axle,and driving it home-just becausre it's still moving--get to the side of the road,orthe next exit,anbd STOP..when things are grinding metal to metal,those are expensive parts grinding up..usually more than the wrecker/tow truck would've cost you..and-with any 4 wheel drive-when calling a wrecker-let them know it's 4w drive,as you can't drag a jeep with any of thec wheels on the grou nd..you need a rollback or a trailer..
 

Replies to this message:
• jeepster15 (Dec 30, 2008 6:01 pm)
  • loosenut (Jan 01, 2009 8:56 am)
    • len19 (Jan 01, 2009 9:15 am)

Replying to: len19 (Dec 27, 2008 7:48 pm)

I just had this issue on my 2000 Grand Cherokee. Had to get the cylinder replaced and unfortunately the keys need to be reprogrammed for the new cylinder. I'm fortunate that we have good auto electronics place that can do it. Regardless, I called to have it towed because I was stuck just like you. The tow truck driver came and tapped it w/ a ball peen hammer and got the tumblers to align for it to start. Took it straight to the shop. Mine was occuring every now and then but eventually became alot and finally permanently stuck. Very frustrating failure!!! Hope this helps!

Replies to this message:
• loosenut (Jan 01, 2009 8:56 am)
  • len19 (Jan 01, 2009 9:15 am)

Replying to: jeepster15 (Dec 30, 2008 6:01 pm)

suprises me just how often "primitive methods" still work in our modern world..
your old lock cylindeer might have been just fine with a good dose of lock lube-graphite.grease..after-of course,you get it unstuck!..wonder just where dude hit it to get it to loosen?//
ya see, i'm in that category of "i barely can afford gas,and a couple grand to have the service dept put in a new lock cylinder...well..i'd probably have to drill out the old cylinder,and try to make it NOT look like i stole the dam thing..with the lock missing,and a screwdriver for a key,..that kind of thing..
the "hammer therapy"using the old mecanic's creed of "if all else fails,GET A BIGGER HAMMER!" recently saved me a long cold walk,when my old aerostar's starter decided that the night the temp dropped under zero-to crap out on me..i crawled under it,and gave the starter a few "love taps" and-IT STARTED!!..what had happened there was the armature in trhe starter just happened to land on a worn spot,and wouldn't make contact..whacking it moved the shaft only a micron,but it was enough for it to work..it's been starting just fine,but it did give me fair warning....so,when it quits on you,-sometimes,you can get yourself out of a fix by using primitive methods!

Replies to this message:
• len19 (Jan 01, 2009 9:15 am)

Replying to: loosenut (Jan 01, 2009 8:56 am)

Replies to this message:
• paule (Jan 16, 2009 6:49 pm)
  • rak1934 (Mar 05, 2009 3:15 pm)

Replying to: rak1934 (Jan 15, 2009 8:16 pm)

Replies to this message:
• rak1934 (Mar 05, 2009 3:15 pm)

Replying to: paule (Jan 16, 2009 6:49 pm)

I hope someone can help me...
 
I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer 4x4 auto with a 4.0 liter straight 6.
I went ahead and removed the head from the Jeep because I was getting an excessive amount of oil coming out from under the head. It was evident the head seal needed to be replaced. So of course I went thru the whole process of removing the head from the block. Once I drained all the fluids, I went ahead and removed the valve cover. Once I did that, I went ahead and loosened the cap screws at each bridge pivot assembly. Then I remove the pivot assembly. And then the rocker arms. And then of course the push rods.
 
When looking into the condition of all the parts pulled, a couple of the push rods weren't as straight as all the others. So I went ahead and bought a new set. The bridge pivot assembly and rocker arms are in good condition with no excessive wear.
 
One thing I didn't think about when I pulled everything out was keeping track of which rocker arm went to each pivot assembly. I'm usually pretty good about detail, but I spaced this one out.
 
On each pivot assembly, there are two indentations that run down each pivot. It looks something like this below. Some are matched up, and some are different. I hope there's someone out there who knows what I'm talking about. The bottom of the rocker arms has the same indentations as well. Being there are six cylinders there are obviously 6 pivot assemblies. They are as follows...
 
[/\----/\] [/\----/\] [/\----/\] 3 are the same
[\/----\/] [\/----\/] 2 are the same
[/\---\/] One is odd
 
I don't know if this makes sense to anyone. If so, please let me know if there is a way to resolve this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated...
 
Maddy

Replies to this message:
• tuggajb (Mar 11, 2009 3:16 pm)
• paule (Mar 11, 2009 6:14 pm)

Replying to: mataus (Mar 11, 2009 12:56 am)