Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 8:36 AM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee
What is this discussion about?
Jeep Cherokee, SUV
#1988 of 2589 Re: Jeep 1993 - just purchaced quit running [masonjeep08]
May 25, 2006 (3:34 pm)
Well, I'm gonna make your day. You don't have to purchase one out of a '93 Cherokee. You can use the 4.0 out of ANY Jeep model, whether it is a Cherokee, Grand Cherokee or Wrangler. The engines are all the same. You may have to swap out some parts from the original engine, such as the fuel rail, exhaust manifold, ignition, etc.... I'm working on a '96 Cherokee 4.0 to put into my '95 Wrangler. The 4.0 is a wonderfully interchangable engine.
#1989 of 2589 Re: Jeep 1993 - just purchaced quit running [masonjeep08]
May 25, 2006 (3:48 pm)
You may have a hard time finding one delivered for under $600, but here's just one possibility I found on ebay.
#1990 of 2589 towing with a cherokee sport?
May 26, 2006 (5:01 pm)
I have a dream of towing a 18'airstream trailer (3000 lbs.) with my 98 cherokee sport. It has towing hitch, and with weight distributing hitch supposedly can pull 5000lbs.
Can anyone with experience using a cherokee to tow give me any advice? It towing something this size a pipe dream or a real possiblity?
#1991 of 2589 Re: towing with a cherokee sport? [mrfurd]
May 26, 2006 (8:19 pm)
Well, it's not a pipe dream if the Cherokee it outfitted properly and your driving style matches the load. I use my Cherokee to tow my Wrangler to offroading locations. I tow it on a 16' flatbed trailer that has brakes.
Trailer brakes are probably the most important factor in this equation. 'Cause it don't matter how you get down the road if you can't stop when you get there, or when someone pulls out in front of you. Get a good brake controller. I suggest the Tekonsha Prodigy, but there have been some newer ones that may be even better. You don't want to skimp on the controller. Next, you already have the weight distributing hitch, so you should be good to go there. In addition to the hitch setup, you'll probably want to add sway control. A travel trailer can really push the tow vehicle around in high crosswinds or with passing trucks. My particular setup, the Wrangler on a flatbed, tows very straight with little or no sway. I can't say the same for my little 10' popup camper! What is your gear ratio? Mine is 3.55 and does ok, however I wish mine were 3.73 or even a 4.11. The frontal area of your trailer could cause it to wind load more at highway speeds, so a higher numbered ratio could be necessary. You won't know that until you tow it a few times. Next is the tranny. Change your tranny fluid often when you tow. Install as big of a tranny cooler as you can fit behind the grill. Mine is a B&M that literally covers half the radiator. Route the cooler lines so that the tranny fluid coming out of the tranny goes through the cooler first, then through the factory cooler in the radiator, then back to the tranny. Do it this way, or the fluid may get too cold in the winter. You don't have to install a tranny temp gauge, but I highly suggest it. A tranny temp gauge let you "see" just how hard you are working the tranny. Out on the highway with the tranny in "D", not "OD", my temps run very close whether towing or not. However, in town, or when climbing a steep grade, basically anytime the torque convertor unlocks, the temps will start climbing. Thats where you have to watch the temps. You'll cook a tranny quicker in those situations than any other.
Another factor is your location. If you're in the mountains or hills, then you may want to get another opinion. If you're a flatlander, such as myself, then the Cherokee should handle it just fine.
May 27, 2006 (6:01 pm)
Hi all I hope things are going well for you, I have a ,95 Cherokee SE, with 225k miles on it, the other day I had my u-joints replaced, and the lube replaced in the the diff, yeaterday I heard a awful noise coming from the rearend, stopped and looked at saw nothing obvious, this morning I pulled the drums off the axle and looked at them (both) the inside of the left one had been rubbind on the backing plate and hence chewed the "rim " off the drum, I found some metal pieces in the drum removed them, and drove it home, on the way I heard the same type noise from the tight side, I haven't pulled the drum yet But I have a feeling it is the same problem. Is there any possible connection between the drum issue and the overfilling (IMO) the diff housing, allowing the axles to "float" in and out causing what I have described?
#1993 of 2589 Re: Rear diff noise [earthshaker1]
May 27, 2006 (7:06 pm)
No amount of overfilling would cause the axle shafts to "float". Those axle shafts not only carry the torsional load required to turn the tires, but also carry the full weight place on that axle.
What I'm concerned about, and you should be too, is what metal pieces came loose in the brakes. Those pieces could be vital to the operation of your rear brakes. Without seeing it for myself, I can't possibly tell you what it is. With that many miles on your XJ, you probably should replace everything inside the drum anyway. You can get a complete rebuild kit at AutoZone or Advance for around $50 for both sides. If the wheel cylinders have never been replaced, then this is a good time to do that as well.
#1994 of 2589 Re: Rear diff noise [mullins87]
May 28, 2006 (4:12 am)
Just did the brakes all 4 completely on April 8th this year, I did the shoes and pads and the drums and rotors, so you can see my concern that the new brake drums are about a month and a half old are now junk, for all practical purposes, I am hoping that what ever is causing the axles to float is not related to the work done the other day.
#1995 of 2589 Re: Rear diff noise [earthshaker1]
May 28, 2006 (3:47 pm)
Your first post didn't mention recent brake job. My guess is either the drums were wrong ones or defective.
#1996 of 2589 Re: Rear diff noise [dancerman]
May 28, 2006 (8:47 pm)
Now the question is why did it wait nearly a month and a half later, after a lube change to show up? I will be getting with the mechanic that did the ujoint replacement/ diff lube change Tuesday, and see what is up. Thanks for your replies guys!
#1997 of 2589 Re: Rear diff noise [earthshaker1]
May 29, 2006 (5:32 am)
The fact that a brake job was done recently changes everything. I'm with dancerman, the drum could be the wrong ones. Or, I'm thinking, whoever did the work didn't put the pieces back together correctly. Something's amiss to cause them to start eating themselves like that.
Get together with the guy that did the brake work.