Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 8:36 AM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee
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Jeep Cherokee, SUV
#18 of 2589 Jeep Cherokee with bad vibration!
Jan 16, 2001 (10:49 am)
I have a 1999 Cherokee Classic Up-Country that has had vibrations (30 to 45 and 60 to 75 MPH) from new. The dealer has worked on it many times and only made it a little batter. The Dime store Chrysler re claims it's a "characteristic " of the vehicle now.
This company (Daimler Chrysler) is turning its back on its customers! I'm one of many who has this issue with a 1997 and ewer Jeep Cherokee! I wish we could get them to own-up to the defect in the 1997 design change that makes this happen!
If you have any ideas let me know! I've even gone through arbitration. A guy pulled up in a new Dodge truck, took the side of the dealer (characteristic of the vehicle) and blew me off. I have friends with Cherokees and no problems!
This Jeep has been out of service over 25 days in the first year of ownership. I have had many problems with it! Can you say Lemon! Now the "Zone Rep" dances around the issues to avoid the Lemon law!
This issue (vibration) is varied in when it happens and how bad it is. I have never seen a Jeep or any vehicle vibrate like this!
Is it any wonder why Daimler Chrysler operations are suffering now? Treat your customers with a little care and you will grow. Blow them off and you will fail!
#19 of 2589 strange 97 Cherokee noise...
Jan 17, 2001 (9:18 am)
perhaps that title is redundant? I recently purchased a 97 Cherokee Sport with 47k on it, with an extended warranty to 75k (that was the deal maker). I have only encountered two problems, and minor ones.
1. When I am accelerating up an incline at perhaps 40 or 45mph or more, the trans. feels like it's slipping. There is an intermittent "thud" that feels and sounds like its coming from either the trans or front diff., and the engine stays steady at about 1500 rpm when I try to accelerate - basically, it acts like it won't downshift as it climbs. "flooring" the pedal will get it to finally downshift and accelerate properly, but this is strange. Could this be a trans. problem, a front diff. problem...?
2. It idles (very) poorly in very humid or rainy weather. I live in Baltimore, so this occurs often. Any suggestions? Premium gas didn't alleviate it - perhaps this is one of those "quirks" Jeep owners must deal with.
Thanks in advance.
#20 of 2589 cause of the vibrations
Jan 17, 2001 (1:46 pm)
cherokee vibration cause:
the newer (97+) cherokees, especially with upcountry suspension (becuase you are sitting about 1" higher than a stock cherokee) are prone to these driveline vibrations. this is caused because in 97, the NP231 transfer case was changed, and in effect is longer than the older (<97') transfer cases. this longer t-case causes the driveshaft to be at more of an angle (because the distance from t-case to rear diff is now shorter) and causes the vib's you are talking about. the dealer should try dropping the transfer case down to lessen the angle, this isnt the best fix b/c now you have less ground clearence, they also have to make sure your linkages etc. are not effected and adjust as necessary. if you to www.jeepsunlimited.com there are many discussions about this problem. when lifting a newer cherokee, these vibs can be severe. the permanent, correct fix is something called a slip yoke eliminator (SYE). your driveshaft "slips" in and out of the transfer case as the suspesion moves up and down to maintain the proper driveshaft length. a SYE fixes the driveshaft in the transfer case and gives you a new driveshaft that has a slip joint built in. the SYE kit shortens the output shaft of the t-case and lengthens the driveshaft to stop the vibs. to much info probably but i hope this helps you understand what is going on. take it to a dealer and demand that this is a problem that needs to be taken care of, they certainly have heard it from other owners and can fix it with a transfer case drop.
#21 of 2589 Overall Poor Quality
Jan 18, 2001 (6:59 am)
I own a 2000 Cherokee Sport. I have had it for a little over a year. I understand that it is an "economy SUV" but I think I have had enough. I have had three sets of rotors replaced as the company's originals warp after 2000 miles. Try putting it into 4 low when you really need it. Idling is rough and noisy, especially in the morning. Heat blower is way to loud. U-turns are less than smooth and fuel economy is poor. Engine noise is ridiculous. I will say this, the Jeep is rugged, powerful and has great instrument panels and accesibilty. It is small and cramped at times but it is somewhat comfortable. The back seat should only be used by children or small adults.
I thought the four wheel drive was good until I drove my girlfriend's Bravada with SmartTrac, Jeep's little 4x4 can't compare to that on snowy urban streets, offroad yes, urban driving no way. I will never buy a manual 4x4 again.
It heats up quick and has good A/C but again ,the blower is too loud and you need it on high on hot days.
Overall, I think the Cherokee sport is a poorly built and designed SUV, it is more suitable for teens and college student or for a second vehicle. I think Chrysler does poor with their customers as the dealerships are cold and greedy. If you are looking at the Jeep Cherokee Sport vs. other SUV in the price range, drive is for more than the 10 minutes the dealer gives you.
#22 of 2589 Re: Bravada
Jan 18, 2001 (9:45 am)
Since you didn't mention whether you were comparing Apples to Apples, I'll assume you aren't. The Bravado only comes with a full-time 4WD option - not part time 4WD only. I don't think it's a fair comparison to make between the two (if that's in fact the case) Which -case does the Cherokee have - 231 or 242?
BMW, I find I/I 4WD better in the snow than full-time, I've certainly never gotten stuck in snow with part time 4WD...
Then there's the cost factor, I don't believe the Jeep and Old are in the same ball park. Mine idled fine (a little high - but smooth) in the mornings. I was able to get 22MPG with my '98
#23 of 2589 Advise... please Help.
Jan 18, 2001 (7:55 pm)
I am looking to buy a new car and am trying to keep an open mind about it. The thing is I realllllllly like the looks of the original Cherokee. I simply like it. I have a '98 Classic in mind that goes for $16,500, it was a leased vehicle. Is this price reasonable? Also, advise on any of these points please:
1. Can the 4WD system be driven on half ice/half dry pavement, I've heard that the lower-type 4WD system MUST NOT be driven on ANY dry pavement or it will DESTROY the differentials and drive train. Selectrak can do it but Commandtrak MUST NOT. Any word on this?
2. The rotors warp and need replacement -- is this true?
3. What is the classic "electrical problem" Jeeps have had?
#24 of 2589 driverleblanc
Jan 18, 2001 (8:25 pm)
Well lets see.
1) The difference between the Command Trac (part time only) and SelecTrac (full time or partime) is that the Selectrac includes a differential in the transfer case. This permits all 4 wheels to travel different distances when turning. In part time mode, the front and rear drive axles must turn at the same rate, so 1 wheel in front and 1 in the back must also turn at the same rate. When driving in a straight line, this isn't a problem since all 4 wheels are turning at the same rate anyway. But when turning, the front end will start hopping around trying to force the outer wheels to turn at the same rate. This does cause an exceptional amount of wear on everything and can possibly damage stuff.
In general its not a good idead to drive in part time mode while on pavement that doesn't allow the tires to slip. However, half ice would probably be ok, so long as you keep half the vehicle on the ice to allow the tires on that side to slip when necessary.
2) In 70xxx miles on my '97, I don't recall having the rotors replaced. I think I've had them turned once or twice, but thats about it. Others may have different experiences.
3) Classic "electrical problem"? Hmmm. In '97, (the most recent redesign), they did change the design of the wiring harness, so maybe they were having some sort of a shorting problem in prior years. I seem to recall something about the dash lights goin out. Other than that, there's been a recall on the fuel sending unit (which has been known to read 1/4 full when actually empty) and another recall on something for the airbag (inertia senser I think). Thats about it. I haven't been having any "electrical problems".
#25 of 2589 Power door locks - '98 Cherokee Sport
Jan 19, 2001 (10:13 am)
This is going to sound stupid but...
I'm thinking of buying a '98 Sport from a dealer. I've been driving Cherokees my entire driving career. Parents had a '79, then an '86, then my mom got a '92 along with my dad's '86, and now they are still driving the '92 and they replaced the '86 with a '96. (Oh and then there was my '85 CJ-7)
Anyway, I'm looking a '98 Sport. 2 door. Crank winows, and manual locks. I only ask this as a curiousity, but how difficult is it to retro-fit power locks if I wanted to install an alarm with keyless entry? Does Jeep have the wiring in there already or would I have to string my own to the fuse box?
(Spoiled with a fully loaded Integra GS-R for the last few years)
Jan 19, 2001 (8:20 pm)
I appreciate the feedback and may go ahead and buy it soon. Especially thanks for the description of the 4wheel system, it sounds like the Command Track option is less than the Selectrack option. I am planning to get the vehicle anyway. $16,500, 35,000miles.
Any other opinions on a 98 Cherokee Classic from this Cherokee community?
#27 of 2589 driverleblanc
Jan 19, 2001 (9:48 pm)
Well, I guess it comes down to money, but I considered a used one myself. I picked up a 01 4X4 4-door sport (new) for $20,500 with alot of options (tow, tint, wheels, fogs) beyond the normal equipment. I think I could have saved about $1000 without all that extra stuff. I'm not sure what the classic has that's so much different than the sport. I looked at sports a few years old and the savings was between $3,000-$5,000 which wasn't substantial to me mainly because of the amount of miles I drive. I'd rather start at zero than 36K. I've had it 6 weeks/4300 miles and it does the job quite well.