Last post on Jun 30, 2013 at 8:32 AM
You are in the Nissan Pathfinder
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Nissan Pathfinder, SUV
#7917 of 8191 Re: Need some guidence to buy 01 Pathfinder [maiya]
Aug 03, 2005 (3:23 pm)
Have a 2001 Pathy LE with 50K Absolutely not one return to dealer for warranty service.. Great car. Will buy again in spite of fuel costs today. My wife wanted a Forester..excellent vehicle, but the Pathy is just an awesome car...creature comforts, strength, and incredible reliability. The 3.5 motor is an engineering acheivement IMHO and Ward's World agrees. With 90K, the car has had road miles...commuter stuff. Just assure its gotten its oil changes. If the owner used the newer synthetics...its still new. The Nissan Pathfinder Off Road Association considers these engines to be "fully broken in" at about 120,000 miles. With 50K, I have only topped off and never added a quart...I change oil and filter once a year using the newer oils. We also have a 1992 Pathy (156000mi) a 1996 Pathy (92000mi) and of course the 2001 at just approaching 50K. These have been trouble free cars...less trouble than out 1990 Civic and 1990 Accord...comaparable to our 1986 Toyota Camry (yeah..we really got one and its a daily driver).
Nissan does stuff to their VSQ 3.5 engine that is way advanced: coatings, forgings, over-designed strength. I consider their motors to be of BMW quality engineering and I am a motor buff. The gas mileage is less than the best but the vehicle, without reservation, will please. Unbreakable automatic. If the price is decent and the condition good (I'll bet its close to excellent), consider buying.
Oh, one other thing, the "monoframe" is incredibly rigid and strong. They started with that frame in 1996 and there have been no issues whatsoever. Very rigid...makes for a great handling SUV that will surprise you in an accident avoidance manuever. BTW, I am not a "Nissan" freak. I buy what is the best.
#7918 of 8191 Re: coolant drain plugs [pathfindermike]
Aug 03, 2005 (3:44 pm)
Save your money. When was the last time you "changed" the water in your baseboard hot water system in your home? No home? Sorry. But the point is, once the water has turned "brackish" and the oxygen used up in combining with iron in the boiler and copper in the pipes, the rust stops and homes wind up with the same water in their systems WITHOUT ANTIFREEZE for 25 years and more or until a pipe breaks.
Long Haul truckers do not "change" their coolant out. They keep the coolant at 50-67% and add a can of "anti-rust" every other year. I worked for Allied Van Lines and I know that there are trucks on the road for more than a decade still running the original coolant. Once again, once the oxygen has been eliminated, why would you want to restore it with fresh water? Its one of the biggest hoaxes ever put on the motoring public. I bought a 1990 Honda Accord. Topped off with pure antifreeze when needed due to a hose change or clamp leak. It came with 50/50 mix and I never changed it. Added anti-rust every other year (Prestone). Traded car in with 90,000 miles in 2001 for a Nissan Pathfinder. The Pathy, at 5 years and 50K, still has the original coolant and water, but with a can of anti-rust.
Save your money. Buy a can of anti-rust. Don't listen to the idiots at the car parts store...ignore the mechanics who have a vested interest in service and did not have chemistry at trade school. Stay with the factory fill, top off with pure anti-freeze, add a can of anti-rust every other year.
Want proof? Aren't the companies selling 50/50 mix at nearly full price (which is 50% water and 50% antifreeze) as if they are "doing you a favor". You cannot trust what they say, or the government that allows it!
#7919 of 8191 Re: coolant drain plugs [motorbuff]
Aug 04, 2005 (6:04 am)
Motorbuff, what's your explanation for the fact that most, if not all, car and light truck manufacturers maintenance schedules call for the coolant to be replaced periodically? They don't have a vested interest, and I assume they would use the need for less maintenance as a marketing tool, such as they currently do by stretching the required oil change intervals.
#7920 of 8191 Re: coolant drain plugs [shark715]
Aug 04, 2005 (9:07 am)
I'm going to have to disagree with motorbuff and agree with shark. Oh well it's already finished. Are you alright motorbuff? Why would I want to put fresh fluids in my car? I don't know! Once the coolant breaks down you lose lubrication of the water pump. Why not spend 15-20 bucks for some preventive maintenance? Especially something only changed every couple years.
#7921 of 8191 Re: coolant drain plugs [pathfindermike]
Aug 04, 2005 (10:40 am)
I don't really want to argue with motorbuff, but the fact of the matter is glycol is necessary, and does break down, becoming quite acidic. So it has to be replaced at specified intervals - every 2 years for ethylene glycol and every 5 years for propylene glycol. The additives in antifreeze do some important things as well, such as slowing corrosion (very important in engines with a mix of steel and aluminum such as -all- currently used engines in the industry.
Pathfindermike, lubrication of the water pump is a common misconception. If you look at a waterpump, you will see it uses two -sealed- bearings. If the glycol coolant gets in there (and it eventually does), it destroys the bearings, not lubricates them. They are "permanently" lubricated when they are made, with grease. The coolant -may- be claimed to keep the bearing seals cool, but that's about it.
Antifreeze coolant does two basic things:
1. It stabilizes the coolant at very high and very low temperatures. It raises the boiling point making operation in very high temps. safer. It lowers the freezing point, making operation in very cold climates possible. As a bonus, once you have at least around 40% glycol, even if it freezes it only turns into a gel, which is unlikely to crack the metal housings because it will still "flow" if it expands (the reason "blocks" are cracked is either the entire coolant charge is frozen and expands, or the coolant freezes in a local area, this ice prevents the continuing ice buildup from expanding into the liquid, thereby building up force against the container - the "block").
2. Perhaps the most important thing is corrosion protection, and it's not anywhere near as simple as motorbuff thinks. First, the glycol reduces corrosion (when "fresh"), and there are additives in the glycol that absorb acids that naturally form in a cooling system. These additives are slowly "used up". Once they are gone, even just glycol will not prevent the corrosion - I've seen an aluminum radiator pierced by corrosion in a year due to poor corrosion protection (10% glycol used).
I have a few friends here in Edmonton who are "production engineers" and make glycol. They tell me that ethylene glycol breaks down even in the plastic containers it is shipped in. Buy it fresh, use it immediatly, discard/recycle after two years! These days proper disposal is important, due to the increased number of cars in the environment.
#7922 of 8191 Re: DASHBOARD/PILLAR NOISE [ece441]
Aug 04, 2005 (10:06 pm)
I have a 2005 SE & have had a number of rattles and squeaks to report. The first two were a rattle from the dash (drivers side)...diagnosed as an a/c line in contact with the firewall. This was fixed. The next was a creaking sound coming from the drivers side window...diagnosed as a problem with the window regulator/insulation in contact with window. This was fixed as well. A week after I got it back a new rattle developed in the passenger side and a loud squeaking noise from somewhere in the undercarriage or suspension...happens on any bumps...even louder when the tank is less than 1/2 full. I am wating for my appointment date the have these last two problems fixed. Will report what they find.
#7923 of 8191 '05 pathfinder SE Offroad 4wd
by fortune guru
Aug 05, 2005 (1:44 am)
I am currently looking for a new suv with 4wd and have narrowed down my choices to the pathfinder and 4runner V8. I understand that on all pathfinder models, there is "all mode" 4wd which I assume means you can use 4wd on dry pavement. However, on the SE-Offroad, there is no center differential which means you can't use 4wd (4H) on dry pavement. Am I correct on this? Can you or can't you use 4wd on dry pavement? I occasionally need 4wd for seasonal activites such as driving on the beach, camping, and driving up mountains for snowboarding. I am interested in the SE-Offroad because it is the only model with uphill and downhill assist as well as Rancho Shocks.
#7924 of 8191 Re: '05 pathfinder SE Offroad 4wd [fortune guru]
Aug 05, 2005 (6:38 am)
There are two different systems in use.
The first is "all mode" and only the LE gets this automatic 4WD system - in this system rear wheel drive is used unless slip is detected. Then a multiplate clutch engages the front wheels. This system can be switched to 2WD (only rear wheels engaged), 4WD (locked 4wd - slippery or loose surface only), and 4WD low range. The "all mode" system is built into the automatic transmission, so no manual trans. option with "all mode".
The other system is a standard 4WD system with a two speed transfer case. Recommended use of 4WD is on slippery or loose surface roads only.
I have lived with the second type of system and it works just fine. I used 4WD on pavement often (switching in and out depending on whether it was slippery or not). When you turn sharply you will encounter "binding" unless the wheels can slip. If used on good traction surfaces mechanical wear will increase greatly. Breakage of parts is unlikely except in LO range in extrodinary circumstances (such as jumping the vehicle off the ground).
My current vehicle (2001 LE) has the first type of system (now called "all mode"). It works well also. I do keep it in 2WD unless I'm on slippery surfaces, as it lowers fuel economy when engaged. When I first got my vehicle it was uncanny how I could spin up the rear tires on wet pavement but when set to "auto" mode ("all mode") I couldn't spin them up. That's the best part of this vehicle - the power the engine has!
Neither system has a centre differential. The 4Runner has a torsen centre diff. (this type doesn't clunk when locking or unlocking). My recommendation is if you are primarilly interested in off-road use, get the 4Runner. If most of your use is on the road, the Pathfinder is "nicest".
#7925 of 8191 Fuel: Octane to use
Aug 07, 2005 (5:44 pm)
Just purchased a 2005 Pathfinder LE. Anyone using 87 octane instead of 93. I`ve been using both right now, don`t see any difference.
#7926 of 8191 Pricing increase on 05 Pathfinder??????
Aug 08, 2005 (7:48 pm)
I was told by a dealer that the prices have gone up on 05 Pathfinders. This has to be BS right????? They don't raise prices from the factory mid year? I also was quoted a different destination charge than the one listed here. Should I run?