Last post on Dec 03, 2013 at 3:38 PM
You are in the Isuzu Rodeo
What is this discussion about?
Isuzu Rodeo, Honda Passport, SUV
#597 of 2315 RODEO NIGHTMARE
Feb 21, 2002 (4:11 pm)
I purchased a new rodeo in 98 and had these repairs just after the warranty went out.
1, Main bearing in transmission went out... $1500
2. Clutch $800
Priot to these repairs, I had a tire rotate that cost $298 because 4 lugnuts broke of the studs during a routine tire rotate. The tires needed replaced some 10,000 miles later, and Sam's Club and a Texaco Station said they would be glad to
sell me tires but would not install them becarse isuzu products have "soft" studs and they would not be responsible
for the repair. I then took the Rodeo to the dealership in Upper Marlboro where I purchased the Vehicle and they
wanted $140 to install new tires and denied and problems with the studs. The problem is when a stud breaks of the
rotors have to be removed to replace them. When I contacted isuzu head quarters they denied the problem. Four mounths ago the transfer case went out ($1500) and I traded it in on a Honda. The tradin was low because ot it's poor
reputation. Honda's last year fof the Passport is 2002 because of all the problems and bad press.
#598 of 2315 98 Rodeo
Feb 21, 2002 (4:59 pm)
Had no more problems, and in fact far less than the Escape, also a new vehicle. So the moral of the story? Don't buy the first year a vehicle is out. Plain and simple. Honda isn't dropping the passport because of poor quality (check CR, even they rate Isuzu just as high as Honda and Yoda for reliability) they are dropping it cause they are building the CAR based Pilot which fits the demographic of a Honda buyer better than a TRUCK based frame vehicle.
#599 of 2315 Tips for long lasting engine.
Feb 21, 2002 (6:29 pm)
Well, no matter what people say that you don't have to warm up your car before driving off, I do now. Big big difference. I noticed less oil consumption, better mileage, and better power, smoother running engine, less noise, better ride too (can't explain it).
Before, I used to drive off even if the temp gauge says it's not warm yet and the engine felt clumsy even after the engine warmed up later down the road.
Next to buy, aftermarket remote starter. I gues Clifford is a good brand.
Feb 21, 2002 (7:50 pm)
I can't get my temp guage to lift off of the "c" until I actually drive it. But I let it warm up for about 1 minute and then drive under 4K rpms until the needle rises off C
#601 of 2315 Tips for long lasting engine.
Feb 21, 2002 (9:38 pm)
Of course it never hurts to have synthetic flowing through your engine on those cold mornings! I'm in Alabama and hate starting my car in the sorta-cold weather we have here. I can't imagine what damage is caused by starting and driving right away w/no warmup in places where it really gets cold!
Feb 21, 2002 (9:45 pm)
Paisan, I used to do what you mentioned but I noticed big improvement when warming to operating temp before moving off. I guess this particular engine ('99 Passport) does not run at optimum performance unless properly warmed. I read somewhere that various engine parts are made of different types of metal with there own different degrees of thermal expansions. Unless the engine is at operating temperature some of the parts may not have lined up properly that may lead to cracks (on rare instances). The pistons may not have expanded properly causing insufficient compression and high oil consumption.
Just my 2 cents.
#603 of 2315 Same engines
Feb 22, 2002 (4:48 am)
The 3.2 and the 3.5 are the same engines essentially the 3.5 is bored and stroked IIRC. I just can't get mine to warm up off the "C" until it moves, maybe it is my synthetic oil that causes it to not warm up quickly.
Feb 22, 2002 (8:43 am)
Seems to be common knowledge around tire shops and alignment shops but dealers deny there is a problem with the studs breaking off.
I have had to replace a few on my 97 as well!!!
Feb 22, 2002 (8:51 am)
The problem is that most shops use an impact wrench w/o the proper torque stick. They should only be tightened to 75psi most places push them to well over 100psi. My buddy who has a montero has the same problem with his. He has had shops replace all the studs numerous times.
Feb 22, 2002 (9:11 am)
it's just a sign that you've had a tire rotation/change at a bad shop that uses an impact wrench well past spec. Shops that are intelligent and know vehicles don't over tighten lugs and you will never have a problem. This is not just a problem with Isuzu's, but all makes and models. Stupid shops just overtighten because it's safer. They will stay on just fine, but when you try and take them off...no no no. So by the time you know there's a problem, it's way tooooo late.