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Chevy Tahoe

6384 messages,  Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 1:36 PM

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#6349 of 6384 Re: Front end shimmy? [arrie] by mmercuri Mar 11, 2009 (4:57 am)
Replying to: arrie (Mar 10, 2009 2:01 pm) Hi Arrie, thanks for the response. Yes, it happens after we hit a bump. I have just under 65K Miles (not bad for 9 years old), we have Kelly Safari Tires P245/75R16, and we have NOT changed the shock absorbers. I haven't really thought about the stopping that you mention before/after hitting bumps, so I would have to say I don't recall a problem stopping. -One thing to note that might be helpful to you... once when this happened, 2 men driving almost next to us had us pull over because they saw the severe shaking and wanted to look under the truck to make sure the front wheels weren't going to come off! They did a quick 'by the side of the road' check, and didn't see anything unusual. This particular time we had just gone over some bumps, and we were in a slight turn to the right. Although this has also happened when we are going straight. Although this has only happened a few times, I have this fear that the wheels are going to come off when I'm on the highway! Is that even possible? Any thoughts? Thanks again! Replies to this message: arrie (Mar 11, 2009 9:49 am) bmgt18 (Jun 01, 2009 5:30 am) 73shark (Jun 01, 2009 7:04 pm) ashlyn (Jul 30, 2009 3:10 pm) and 1 more...
#6350 of 6384 Re: Front end shimmy? [mmercuri] by arrie Mar 11, 2009 (9:49 am)
Replying to: mmercuri (Mar 11, 2009 4:57 am) It really sounds weird if shaking is so bad that people in the car next to you can see it so severe they want to stop you for inspection...   Again, it sounds like your shock absorbers are all gone. For a 9 year old truck you should change them anyway. And they are not really that expensive.   Do you think your tires are in a good balance, i.e. do you feel any kind of vibration in the steering wheel other than when shaking goes very bad?   It could be that when you hit a bump it gives the suspension spring system an impulse that is then kept vibrating by off balance tires.   How about tire wear? Do they wear evenly. i.e. no outside or inside edge wear?   The big shaking should be taken care of with new set of shocks and tires should be in such balance that you feel absolutely no vibration when you drive.   You can test shocks by applying weight on front bumper (same for rear). When you remove the weight the truck should raise up and then slightly down and stop at its normal resting position. If you see any movement up again your shocks are to be replaced. i.e. shock absorbers should stop the up-and-down movement at 3/4 point of the vibration cycle and not start up again.   Arrie
#6351 of 6384 Re: Windows [2001burbman] by people_h8tr May 06, 2009 (12:41 pm)
Replying to: 2001burbman (Dec 04, 2000 4:38 am) Just had to replace my drivers' side front window this last weekend. Purchased the motor on-line. Same motor will work for the front or rear window on same side. It only cost me $47.99 out the door, and my neighbor installed it for me. It took him a few hours but it works as good as new. It is slightly louder than the other motors, but nothing to complain about.   Hope this helps!        Anjeanette
#6352 of 6384 Re: AC/Heater Fan Switch [a68rs] by michaelrankin May 16, 2009 (3:44 pm)
Replying to: a68rs (Mar 06, 2006 5:09 pm) I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe with 81000 miles on it. The heater and a/c fan only works on the highest speed #5. How do you repair this problem? Replies to this message: 73shark (May 16, 2009 7:09 pm)
#6353 of 6384 Re: AC/Heater Fan Switch [michaelrankin] by 73shark May 16, 2009 (7:09 pm)
Replying to: michaelrankin (May 16, 2009 3:44 pm) Not sure if they still use the resistor network for speed control on all but the highest or not but if they do, it sounds like there is a open circuit in the common line to the resistor network.
#6354 of 6384 2003 Tahoe AC issue by kmitchell3 May 22, 2009 (4:35 pm)
I have an 03 Chevy Tahoe Z71 -- the ac seems to work but the fan doesn't blow at ll unless you are going down the road pretty fast it will blow out some. I checked the BLOWER fuse and it was fine. It seems to me that this might be a wiring issue. Does anyone know where the ac fan is located in the engine so I can check the wire going to it? Also, what other things can I check myself before having to have it looked at by a professional. Thanks
#6355 of 6384 99 tahoe wont start by gabecmodel May 22, 2009 (8:12 pm)
ive replaced the altnator, spark plugs, fuel filter, battery, fuel pump sensor, starter sensor, and it still wont turn over. it cranks and starts for a second then cuts out. ive checked all the grounds and i have no idea PLEASE HELP Replies to this message: kiawah (May 22, 2009 9:00 pm) gabecmodel (May 23, 2009 5:08 am) kiawah (May 23, 2009 5:57 am)
#6356 of 6384 Re: 99 tahoe wont start [gabecmodel] by kiawah May 22, 2009 (9:00 pm)
Replying to: gabecmodel (May 22, 2009 8:12 pm) how much fuel pump pressure do you have? Replies to this message: gabecmodel (May 23, 2009 5:08 am) kiawah (May 23, 2009 5:57 am)
#6357 of 6384 Re: 99 tahoe wont start [kiawah] by gabecmodel May 23, 2009 (5:08 am)
Replying to: kiawah (May 22, 2009 9:00 pm) i dont know how do i check for that im not a mechanic
#6358 of 6384 Re: 99 tahoe wont start [kiawah] by kiawah May 23, 2009 (5:57 am)
Replying to: kiawah (May 22, 2009 9:00 pm) You need fuel, compression, and spark to run (all done at the correct time of course). If your vehicle cranks, starts, and runs for a period before stalling out, then your compression is 'probably' okay, and your electrical is 'probably' okay. I'd be focused on verifying good fuel supply.   For instance, if you had a bad fuel pump or some obstruction in the fuel delivery, you might have enough fuel to start after the engine was rested, but not enough to keep it running.   Who has determined that all of those parts had to be replaced? Seems you could have had a mechanic spend an hour of time diagnosing this problem, before throwing all kinds of expensive parts at it. If you're not a mechanic and don't have any diagnostic tools, then I'd suggest getting it towed to a competent/reliable mechanic, and have him diagnose the problem and fix it for you. He can do compression tests on the cylinders to know that the internals of the engine are okay. He can check the fuel pressure to validate fuel delivery. He can check the engine computer, to see what error codes might have been recorded, etc. You could randomly throw 20 more parts at this and still not find the problem.

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