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6325 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2008 at 8:29 PM
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Replying to: jjgtb (Feb 06, 2001 7:32 pm) I had a similar noise, from what you describe, and had work done on my front axle system. The electronic engagement was not fully off or on, and under braking and a little during acceleration, a clunking sound could be heard. I make no guarantees that this is your problem, but it would be worth looking into from the way it sounds. As far as tranny problems, I have had nothing but trouble with my 4l60e, since rebuild. I would recommend going with a remanufactured from a company like Jasper, that carries a strong warranty and will cover if any problems. Rebuilds are only as good as the person doing the work. Since you have already rebuilt twice though, I can understand frustration in having to pay more money, but I really think it is the best option and only wish I would have gone that route myself. Hope this helped and good luck. |
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Replying to: wannafish (Jan 10, 2001 7:00 pm) It was actually a cylinder and valve train slapping due to added pressure from water and coolant leaking in. Have you been losing coolant at all. Mine was such a small leak that I really never noticed till the small noise turned vicious. Good luck and hope this helps. |
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Replying to: asanchez1 (May 21, 2008 3:22 pm) I had mine in the shop more times than I can count trying to figure it out. It would stop after warming up a bit, but eventually would not stop at all. Only reason I found out was I started to notice a coolant smell coming from exhaust. Pulled off intake and sure enough, bad leak. Once repaired, never had noise and later talked to a mechanic at local garage, one I didn't go to, that said he has had a few come in like that that he repaired and fixed the problem. Good luck and I hope this helped. |
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i just drove my 2001 Suburban for like 15 minutes, and then suddenly the warning light for the brakes came on and stayed on. I didn't feel anything different with the brakes, what does the light mean? My husband is deployed and I don't know what to do. I am not really familiar with this town, so any help is welcome. Thank you.
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Replying to: charlieswife (Aug 25, 2008 3:48 pm) First thing I would try is to pull the parking brake release lever under dash. On tahoes, it is directly under dash below the turn signal. If that does not work, I would recommend taking it to a brake shop for inspection. Tell them that you are getting quotes to have brakes repaired and that you are not paying anything till you have a few quotes to find the best price. This might help in saving money by shops not just throwing an outrageous price at you, if they think you are getting quotes from other shops. Most of the time, they will look at it for free and hopefully have you on your way. I would do something pretty quick though, just in case you have a small leak. Hope this helped and good luck.
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Replying to: cyclonehd (Aug 25, 2008 5:49 pm) |
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| Anyone have an idea if i can replace the factory autoride shocks with aftermarket and not have the message center tell me to check the suspension? | |
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I own a 95 Tahoe, 4WD, and lately when I accelerate to get up to speed on the freeway, or am going up a hill, the transmission kicks back and jerks. Sometimes it can work through it, other times it keeps going, and you have to lay off the gas and take it slow. I am hoping that it does not need a new transmission! Does anyone know what may be causing it? Is there a part that i may be able to swap on the trans instead of getting a new one? Thanks.... |
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A reporter is interested in talking with satisfied owners of a 2001-2006 Chevrolet Tahoe who are also parents. If you are interested in commenting on your experience, please reply to jwahl Thanks for your consideration, Jonathan Wahl Corporate Communications Edmunds Inc. |
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| What if I was so happy with my 2004 that I bought a 2007? Do I still count? | |
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