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SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Chevy Tahoe
6384 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 1:36 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: soonerbigdog (Jul 08, 2008 6:07 pm) Anyway, I had a problem with front tire wear at inside edge, i.e. toe was open. When I took it to a shop for alignment it was right in the middle of the tolerance. I asked to close the toe to the minimum limit on the tolerance and this seems to have fixed the issue. I also put on Triple Tread Fortera tires right after alignment job and after 6000+ miles don't see any inside / outside wear on them. Handling also is very good. I think the toe setting what GM recommends is for mostly slower speeds. When you drive fast highway speed the down force lowers the vehicle. This in turn, believe or not, changes the toe and I think with these trucks the toe opens. For handling with high speed you want to have the toe at zero so closing the toe a little bit might do the trick for you. I had the same problem with a Ford Crown Victoria. That car was just awful when I went to pass someone on a 2-lane highway where it often must be done fast. Moving that big car sideways to on-coming traffic lane fast so that the car would lean left caused it to want to go further left as the left front suspension lowered under the leaning. This opened the toe and you really had to put a lot of steering input to keep the car from leaving the road. On that car I had the toe checked and it also was in the tolerance area. We checked the toe by pulling down on front of the car and it clearly made the toe open up quite a lot. I then asked to set the toe to the minimum limit and it was a huge improvement on handling. On my Tahoe the handling did not improve that much I guess because it never was as bad as on the Crown Victoria but this is something you might want to try. I know front alignment costs $45 or so but I think it is well worth it. Arrie
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| My 2005 Tahoe has a roof rack but didn't come with the cross bars. Could someone point me to some good information on the web about them - I can't seem to find any. I found one site that seems to offer OEM bars for around $100. I've been told that Thule and Yakima have good systems - but you seem to have to buy a whole rack for around $300. Can I get something less expensive? Thanks. | |
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Replying to: arrie (Jul 09, 2008 8:10 am) Thanks for the tips. I'll definitely give this a try. SD |
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Replying to: jjgtb (Feb 06, 2001 7:32 pm) I had a similar noise, from what you describe, and had work done on my front axle system. The electronic engagement was not fully off or on, and under braking and a little during acceleration, a clunking sound could be heard. I make no guarantees that this is your problem, but it would be worth looking into from the way it sounds. As far as tranny problems, I have had nothing but trouble with my 4l60e, since rebuild. I would recommend going with a remanufactured from a company like Jasper, that carries a strong warranty and will cover if any problems. Rebuilds are only as good as the person doing the work. Since you have already rebuilt twice though, I can understand frustration in having to pay more money, but I really think it is the best option and only wish I would have gone that route myself. Hope this helped and good luck. |
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Replying to: wannafish (Jan 10, 2001 7:00 pm) It was actually a cylinder and valve train slapping due to added pressure from water and coolant leaking in. Have you been losing coolant at all. Mine was such a small leak that I really never noticed till the small noise turned vicious. Good luck and hope this helps. |
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Replying to: asanchez1 (May 21, 2008 3:22 pm) I had mine in the shop more times than I can count trying to figure it out. It would stop after warming up a bit, but eventually would not stop at all. Only reason I found out was I started to notice a coolant smell coming from exhaust. Pulled off intake and sure enough, bad leak. Once repaired, never had noise and later talked to a mechanic at local garage, one I didn't go to, that said he has had a few come in like that that he repaired and fixed the problem. Good luck and I hope this helped. |
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i just drove my 2001 Suburban for like 15 minutes, and then suddenly the warning light for the brakes came on and stayed on. I didn't feel anything different with the brakes, what does the light mean? My husband is deployed and I don't know what to do. I am not really familiar with this town, so any help is welcome. Thank you. 
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Replying to: charlieswife (Aug 25, 2008 3:48 pm) First thing I would try is to pull the parking brake release lever under dash. On tahoes, it is directly under dash below the turn signal. If that does not work, I would recommend taking it to a brake shop for inspection. Tell them that you are getting quotes to have brakes repaired and that you are not paying anything till you have a few quotes to find the best price. This might help in saving money by shops not just throwing an outrageous price at you, if they think you are getting quotes from other shops. Most of the time, they will look at it for free and hopefully have you on your way. I would do something pretty quick though, just in case you have a small leak. Hope this helped and good luck.
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Replying to: cyclonehd (Aug 25, 2008 5:49 pm) 
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| Anyone have an idea if i can replace the factory autoride shocks with aftermarket and not have the message center tell me to check the suspension? | |
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