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You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
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Chevrolet Tahoe, SUV
#5238 of 6471 MOTOR RUNS ROUGH
May 16, 2005 (3:54 pm)
I OWN A 1997 CHEVY TAHOE 5.7 VOR
I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY MOTOR ITS RUNNING ROUGH LIKE ITS ABOUT TO SHUT OFF ,BUT IT DOESN'T. I PUT A CODE TESTER ON IT AND IT SAID ENGINE MISFIRE AND SOME OTHER CODES. SO I FIGURED IT NEEDED A TUNE UP SO I CHANGED SPARK PLUGS AND THE WIRES ALL OEM AND I RESENTED THE COMPUTER. ITS DOING IT AGAIN???????
I TOOK IT TO A SHOP TO GET A DYNASTIC AND THEY COULDN'T FIGURE IT OUT. THEY TOLD ME IT MIGHT BE THE SPIDER CONNECTION AND ITS MISFIRE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE MOTOR.
WHEN I FLOOR THE GAS PEDDLE A BIG CLOUD OF WHITE SMOKE COMES OUT.
I HAVE A ACTRON CODE READER CP9135 THESE ARE THE CODES THAT COMES UP PLEASE HELP.
P0131 BANK 1 SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW VOLTS.
P0300 RANDOM/MULTIPLE CYLINDER MISFIRE DETECTED.
P1133 MANUFACTURE CONTROL FUEL AIR METERING
P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN (BANK 1)
May 16, 2005 (6:06 pm)
I can't figure out why I see so few Tahoes on the lots with the smaller V8.
When I bought my 04 LS (5.3) I drove the 4800 and honestly couldn't tell any difference. I got the bigger motor because I wanted a few extras that were unavailable in anything with the 4800. For the many of us who use our Tahoes as a large wagon rather than a vehicle to tow boats and trailers, why not offer the smaller V8 for somewhat better economy? Is there something wrong with it? Is it just a way to bump the base price $800? Of the four dealers within 30 miles of my house, there are 300+ Tahoes on the GMBuyPower site and under 20 with the 4800 engine. When I bought my car, the pitch was that the 5.3 actually got as good or better MPG. If that is true, why do they complicate life on the GM assembly line by sticking in a few of these smaller engines that are less powerful and no more efficient?
#5240 of 6471 Re: 4800 V8 [dardson1]
May 16, 2005 (6:57 pm)
I don't know, I suppose just so there's a cheaper option available. Or maybe they just make 100% profit on that 5.3L option, so it's a little trick to get you to pay the money.
What I do know is that I have a 4.8L in my '03 Silverado and it gets LESS than my 5.3L Tahoe did. Otherwise identical (gears, etc.) and it doesn't matter how I drive my truck, it gets less mpg. The Tahoe generally averaged 16mpg, the Silverado 13-14mpg in similar driving. I could top 20mpg at times with the Tahoe on all highway trips, and this truck won't break 16mpg on the highway. I think it just has to work so darn hard to keep the vehicle moving. My truck feels much more labored than that Tahoe, and it downshift a lot on the hills. The Tahoe never had those issues even with six+ passengers and luggage stacked to the ceiling.
I would never seek out to buy another 4.8L. I do drive in hilly/mountainous areas a lot, so maybe I feel it more than others. I bought my truck used with 2k miles from a very desperate individual and it was so cheap I couldn't pass it up. Otherwise, I'd gladly pony up the extra cash for the 5.3L.
#5241 of 6471 Re: MOTOR RUNS ROUGH [alexd2]
May 16, 2005 (7:20 pm)
A couple of easy things to try for trouble shooting purposes:
- If your spark plug boots have the aluminum heat shields mounted around them try and see how the engine runs without them, i.e. remove the heat shields. They can leak some spark to engine ground as it seems the OEM spark plug wire boots leak through. Heat shields in my 2004 Tahoe are grounded with a spring in the end of them so if boot leaks it goes to engine ground very easily. When I removed the springs from heat shields I could see a spark between the shield and exhaust manifold on all of the spark plugs when it was dark enough to see the spark. If removing heat shields makes idle smoother then it is to deside if you want to leave them out for good. I personally went and bought a set of good racing spark plug wires (Taylor Thunder Volt 50, dia. 10.4 mm) which do not require use of the heat shields. This set cost about $5 less that the OEM set.
- The other problem I had was with the spark plug wires. Three times I had my engine running rough idle that was caused by loose connection between spark plug wire and the plug. This happened on two different sets of OEM wires and one set of after market set. Don't know how the Taylor wires are yet as I just installed them tonight but I can tell you that the engine in my Tahoe now purrs like a cat on idle. Not any kind of sign of jerking that it has had almost all the time I have had it (almost a year now). I will post as I know more.
- Third thing and easiest to check is to make sure your engine ground is in good order. Multiple codes for different instruments can mean that the one common thing between them has a problem, and that would be grounding. To check for this is just to connect a good clean spot on engine block (like some bracket bolt etc.) to chassis ground or the battery minus terminal. If you do this while your Tahoe runs rough idle and connecting engine ground to chassis ground makes it smooth you have found your problem. For ground connection use a heavy duty cable like a jump start cable.
-Also would be good to check for the PCM grounding points. In my 2004 Tahoe there are two of them, both located in the back part of the engine. They are in really hard to reach locations on both sides of the engine but you should be able to get your hand on them to feel if connectors are loose under the bolt. Go to your dealer and ask them to print you the pages of grounding points. It should have pictures of the grounding locations. My dealer print that for me but unfortunately I threw it away after I checked mine and found them to be ok. And the pages for mine might not work for you as your Tahoe is a couple of years older.
#5242 of 6471 Re: MOTOR RUNS ROUGH [alexd2]
May 16, 2005 (7:22 pm)
I suggest turning off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore message typed in ALL CAPS.
#5243 of 6471 Keyless Remote Programming
May 17, 2005 (11:36 am)
Hey guys, I recently just bought a '98 Tahoe, 4x4, 4 door. The only problem with it is that the previous owner lost the keyless remote. I am going to buy one from the dealer however when i asked them how to program it they referred me to the parts and installation department who then proceeded to feed me a bunch of BS just so i could bring it in to pay them. Does anybody know off hand how to program the remote. If so i would appreciate any help whatsoever!! Thanks
#5244 of 6471 Re: Keyless Remote Programming [rnsurfer]
May 17, 2005 (11:47 am)
Keyoless remote programming should be in your owner's manual. Have you tried checking there? You can find the keyless remote on ebay at probably a 50% discount compared to the dealers price.
#5245 of 6471 Re: Keyless Remote Programming [obyone]
May 17, 2005 (12:02 pm)
Thanks for responding so quickly, yet i haven't had the opportunity to look in the owners manual yet as the car is 3 hours away and i intend on picking it up this weekend. I also haven't really looked on ebay for it yet. A friend had told me that the dealer uses the VIN # to be able to create a new remote entry for lost ones. Don't know if that is completly true or not but anyways appreciate the info.
#5246 of 6471 Re: Keyless Remote Programming [rnsurfer]
May 18, 2005 (3:16 am)
The dealer will use a scantool to access the BCM and program the remote. I'm not positive on the '98 but the '00 and up are programmable by the owner with the instructions being provided in the owners manual.
#5247 of 6471 Re: 4800 V8 [dardson1]
May 18, 2005 (3:53 am)
I've had both in Sierra pickups and the only place the 4.8 was better (for mpg) was on long trips just cruising, with no hills and no hard work to do. Otherwise you're better off with the 5.3, as towing or up hills it doesn't have to work as hard. Where I see most Tahoes with 4.8s is on the USED car lots. Wonder why that is?