I did this and it does work, as for the elec, connectors, they are just plain ring and butt Conn, you can get at any auto store.
Rear Wiper Jumps When Fog Lamps Turned On (Connect Auxiliary Ground to Rear Washer Pump)
2000-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL), 2002 Cadillac Escalade
Condition: Some customers may comment that the rear wiper jumps when the fog lamps are turned on.
Cause: Electrical feedback from the fog lamp circuit into the ground of the rear window washer pump may cause this condition.
Correction: To perform this correction, you will need to obtain the following items:
1 - A J 38125-B Terminal Repair Kit. Obtain the following parts from the kit.
2 - P/N 12077411 (Terminal) from tray #2
3 - P/N 12089496 (Ring Terminal) from tray #5
4 - A 508 mm (20 in) length of Black, 0.5 mm (20 gauge) or 0.8 mm (18 gauge) wire
Isolate the rear washer pump ground circuit by performing the following steps.
1 - Remove the left side fender to radiator tie bar diagonal brace.
2 - Remove the battery.
3 - Remove the battery tray.
4 - Remove the bolt that secures the washer bottle to the upper radiator tie bar.
5 - Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
6 - Remove the lower washer bottle mounting bolt.
7 - Locate the rear washer pump motor, mounted into the washer solvent bottle under the hood, and disconnect the wiring connector for the rear washer pump (Dark Green/White stripe and Black wires).
8 - Remove the black wire from the connector. Cut the wire and tape the end to seal out moisture intrusion. A non-sealed wire will allow moisture to wick up the strands of the wire and may corrode other components/connections.
9 - Slide one end of the new wire through the weather pack seal which was removed from the old wire.
10 - Properly attach the 12077411 terminal (crimp and solder) to one end of the new black wire.
11 - Properly attach a 12089496 ring terminal (crimp and solder) to the other end of the new black wire.
12 - Place the new terminal and wire assembly into the rear washer pump connector and properly position the weather pack seal.
13 - Reconnect the connector to the rear washer pump.
14 - Route the new black wire down to the attaching point on the frame, same location as the battery ground. Follow the battery cable routing.
15 - Remove the ground to frame attaching bolt.
16 - Clean the battery cable and G100 ring terminals of contamination.
17 - Install the new wire ring terminal between the battery ground wire (5) and the existing G100 ground wire (3). Tighten the engine wiring harness ground/negative cable bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
18 - Install the lower washer bottle retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
19 - Lower the vehicle.
20 - Install the upper washer bottle retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
21 - Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray bolts to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
22 - Install the battery. Tighten the battery hold-down retainer bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
23 - Connect the battery cables. Tighten the battery cable bolts to 17 N·m (13 lb ft).
24 - Install the left side fender to radiator tie bar diagonal brace. Tighten the front end diagonal brace bolts to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
25 - Reset the clock.
26 - Advise the customer that all memory modules will have to be reset such as seat, radio presets, and the like. Also advise the customer that the transmission shift points may feel somewhat different. This will change over a short period of time as the transmission adapts to the customer driving habits.
Part Number Description Qty
12077411 Terminal 1
12089496 Ring Terminal 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation: N8505
Description: Harness, Wiring Repair - Replace or Install
Labor Time: 1.0 hr
I have an '02 Tahoe LT 4x4. Almost from day one (10/2001) I have had a buzzing/rattling sound coming from behind the glovebox, as best I can tell. Seems to be more noticeable in cool/cold weather, and seems to disappear during prolonged highway driving. When I press in on the left hand edge of the glovebox, it seems to stifle the noise, until I release the door, when the noise resumes. Any ideas for cause and/or remedy? Thanks!!
I had the same thing, and it appears that it is comming from the inside latch near the pull handle. I bent the latch bar back alittle to tighten up on the tention and put a 1 inch thick piece of foam in the worthless area on the left side of the door were there is a 2 inch or so slot. you have to use alittle more power to close it, but it worked. I know it sounds like it is comming from behind, but a good way to check is when it happens again open the box door and leave it and and see it the noise goes away, if so then thats it, its in the door and you can't get to it unless you pop the rivits.
I changed the Resistor pack (talk about in accessible parts) and the relay, but the problem persisted.
I them pulled out the switch assembly and found the problem. It is the fan switch. For now I have jury-rigged it by cleaning the contacts w/ the wiring harness and wrapping electrical tape around the harness and the switch cylindrical body.
A dealer wants $200 for the switch assembly. I will search the web for a better price. Any good Chevy part stores on-line?
Do I have to buy the entire switch assembly panel (3 dials and 3 buttons) or just replace the fan switch on the existing module/assembly.
I asked a few days ago about my "rattle" felt through the steering wheel and got a very quick and thorough response describing a GM TSB on the problem. Took it in today and described the noise/rattle assuming they'd pull the steering column and lube it up per the TSB. They re-torqued a couple of bolts that hold the steering column in place. Service rep said the bolts were loose. Seems to be fixed.
Does anyone know the demand for the 2003 Yukons? I'm looking to buy one next month and I am looking to get an estimate of what they are going for. FYI: I don't put a lot of faith in the Edmunds TMV. Most people that I know of have bought other vehicles for less than that lately. Thanks for any insight.
#2886 of 6471 zman3 - I think you need to deduct current price
Sep 20, 2002 (4:47 pm)
incentives from the TMV value to get the current estimated sales price for your region. That would put the price at $1,000 less than TMV value for the 2003 Yukon/Tahoe. I have found the TMV prices to be accurate for my region (AZ) when you deduct the incentives.