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Chevy Tahoe
6469 messages, Last post on May 14, 2012 at 8:27 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum.What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Tahoe, SUV
#1920 of 6469 blh7068 by kiilew
Jan 29, 2002 (11:48 am)
Congrats on your Yukon, as well!Just so you know, my Pewter 2002 Tahoe LS is equipped as follows...
4X4
5.3 V8
OnStar communications system
3rd row seat package (with liftgate)
Trailering package
Locking differential
Wheel opening flares
P245/75R16 ALS WOL tires (interestingly, Goodyears; not Firestones)
Federal Emissions
3.73 axle ratio
This rig was built in Wisconsin during 12/01. I paid $200 over invoice for it in Seattle, WA last week, and got the $2,002 rebate and 5.9% financing. I am content with those specifics of the deal, although I think the dealer made his money with respect to my trade (a 1996 Chevy Blazer 4X4).
The steering issue may or may not apply to me. Sometimes I do notice clunkiness through the steering wheel when the front wheels travel over a bump. This effect feels a little like some kind of slack or looseness in the linkage and is mildly irritating since I never felt that in my 120,000 mile Blazer. More significantly, I am aware that my steering seems to be very sensitive; a slight turn of the wheel on the highway produces a dartiness that is totally absent with my father's 2000 (Mexican made) Suburban. I noticed it on my first drive home from the dealer, and my dad also noted it (without my prompting)after I tossed him the Tahoe's keys for a drive. I am thinking about having the dealer check the alignment to see if that could be a problem.
I agree with you and presumably everyone else about the stereo weakness (same thing with the Suburban, too). Maybe someday I will perform the amp bypass discussed elsewhere in this forum.
#1921 of 6469 Alignment by heatwave3
Jan 29, 2002 (12:29 pm)
kiilew: I have a new Denali XL and also needed an alignment as the steering wheel was slightly off center. Make sure you get that alignment done before 7500 miles. After that, the alignment is at your cost.#1922 of 6469 Re: 99 Tahoe - Shaking at 55mph +++ by cozmiik
Jan 29, 2002 (2:45 pm)
Campo - thanks for the response. Unfortunately, tires, shocks, alignment, have all been checked and changed.This shuttering seems to be more of a drivetrain issue. As if the axle was out of sinc or weighted incorrectly and picking-up vibration that increases at higher speeds.
Hitting the breaks will immediately increase the intensity of the vibration - but dampens it after the initial impact.
This is not a constant problem either... It seems to go away with time. Possibly the tranny or drivetrain expanding and tightening or truing-up due to heat from use.
thoughts?
#1923 of 6469 heatwave3 by kiilew
Jan 29, 2002 (5:04 pm)
Thanks for the suggestion about the alignment! As I said, I am not sure that that is a problem, but it probably wouldn't hurt to check it out. And thanks for the heads up about the 7,500 mile threshold. Actually, I will try to get the rig serviced as soon as I can, as I just rolled over 1,000 and I want to avoid damaging the tires as a result of any potential alignment issue.#1924 of 6469 I'll try by dardson1
Jan 29, 2002 (8:15 pm)
not to make this too long....but I need opinions. I've found a Tahoe that suits me. Lists for $34344. (I think there's been a $220 price increase as this site shows this exact car
$34564). After much shopping my trade and even some advise from the guys on "Real World Trade Values" I'm convinced my trade "real money", is close to $20k. I've agreed to a trade of $8650 out the door contingent on my agreement on finance terms. If I back out the TT&L I'm at $7889 difference. This DOES include the 2002 rebate. According to my math I'm at $27889. Invoice per Edmunds is $30318 less the $2002 is $28316. I seem to be at or under invoice. I'm thinkin' about this right? Right? I need to say yes tomorrow, I think.
#1925 of 6469 blh7068 and kiilew by obyone
Jan 30, 2002 (9:18 am)
Clunking in the steering appeared when the remake of the Tahoe/Yukon was introduced. I would think that GM had rid themselves of all the clunky shafts. It appears not. Maybe its a numbers game or design flaw as some have had to change the shaft more than once. Here is the service bulletin on it...note the date and though it says for recirculating ball type found on 4x4's, it also applies to rack and pinion found on 2wd.Steering, Upper Intermediate Shaft - Clunking Noise
File In Section: 02 - Steering
Bulletin No.: 00-02-35-003
Date: June, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Clunking Noise Under the Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Replace the Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
Models:
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C2/K1/K2 Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra) 2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models
(Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Correction
Parts Information
Part no. 26085548 Shaft Asm., Upr Inter Strg.
Parts are expected to be available 6-16-00 from GMSPO.
A new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly has been developed to correct these conditions. Replace the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly on affected vehicles with the new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly P/N 26085548. Use the following service procedure and part number listed.
1. Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
2. Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.
3. From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
4. From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
5. Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
^ From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
^ From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
^ From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft.
6. Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
7. Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
8. Install the upper bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).
9. Install the lower bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
#1926 of 6469 99 Tahoe - Shaking at 55mph +++ by jgmilberg
Jan 30, 2002 (9:41 am)
Take the truck in to an independent alignment shop in your area. One that does mostly alignments, have it gone over with a fine tooth comb. It sounds like a bad idler arm, center link, or pitman arm. This model of Yukon is known for those components failing. It will cause sloppy steering, wandering when you hold the wheel straight, and so on. I would also have the tie rods checked. If one of these parts snap while you are driving you are in a world of hurt, it could be as simple as the tire flopping sideways, it could also end up with a complete loss of steering if it is the pitman arm. Have it looked at by another shop, just to be on the safe side, it's worth the $40 for peace of mind.If you have 2 wheel drive you may have a bad or loose wheel bearing in your rotor, that's another good one for your symptom, especially when you hit the breaks.
#1927 of 6469 Shaking by balser
Jan 31, 2002 (12:03 pm)
I've gotten a vibration from worn u-joints in both my '95 and '96 Suburban. It started as a low humming sound that eventually worked it's way up to a full blown shudder. You may want to check it out.#1928 of 6469 Any opinions b/4 I buy by cecilt
Jan 31, 2002 (4:32 pm)
Does anyone have or just want to share your opinion on my previous post on a used 2001 Tahoe LT w/ all options for $28k but has 35k miles. I have never owned a Tahoe or Chevy for that matter so do not know if mileage should be a major concern or not. Vehicle is perfect in/out. Comes with a 3 yr/50k GMPP major guard w/ $0 deductible. Thanks#1929 of 6469 dardson1 - It seems that you are buying a Tahoe for a few hundred dollars under invoice by fortop
Jan 31, 2002 (4:37 pm)
when the $2002 rebate is included, before TT&L. If that is correct, it makes me wonder about the posts we see here and the various dealers that advertise for $49 over invoce, $200 over invoice, etc. Do these dealers offer the $2002 rebate on a $49 over invoice price, delivering a vehicle for about $2000 below invoice? Most dealers in my neighboorhood advertise the rebate and other incentives off MSRP. One dealer offers to match the $2002 with another "dealer rebate" of $2002, for a total of $4004 off, but that is calculated off MSRP - so you would still be well over invoice. Since you are not selling your trade outright, but trading it in, it is difficult to comparison shop - unless you have a lot of time on your hands. Unless you want to invest a lot of time in shopping around, it seems to me that $9K out of pocket to drive a new Tahoe is not a bad deal. I would ask to see how they calculated the price, just out of curiosity, before I signed the papers. Sometimes you can "overthink" a purchase and take the fun out of it - assuming that you "enjoy" spending the $$$ ;o) ;o) Good LuckTo POST a message, please
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