Last post on Oct 27, 2013 at 2:09 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Tahoe, SUV
Dec 11, 2000 (9:47 pm)
Truck trend Feb 2001 issue (got it today) compares the tahoe with the expedition and sequoia. Well theres a new option the Z71 is back. On the lift gate instead of a tahoe emblam there is a Z71 on the drivers side (kinda looks like the 99 silverados Z71 sticker not the new one that says offroad but its not a sticker its an emblam)
Looks like this
Price as tested with options (dont know what they do not list) was $38,287 including destination
Base Price was $27,845
It was cheaper than the expedition and sequioa both of them were at $40K plus
#146 of 6471 Rear window deflector, Passlock
Dec 11, 2000 (10:32 pm)
I don't agree with the system that is used, Basically what there saying is that if someone gets a key that fits and turns then there in business(slim chance). If someone tries to use a knife or a screw driver than the fuel will be disabled. I think the chip in the key is a better design, no other key will work with out the chip.I have that on my 97 lumina and put a small piece of tape on the chip, the car would not start at all.
As for the rear window getting wet or dusty, I install a Lund windjammer. I did notice a difference, the window does stay cleaner and dryer. The faster you go the better cause more air is forced down over the window. If I had to guess I think it helped about 50%. I don't think any of them will give you 100%.
#147 of 6471 GoingToWait 4One - Correct Mobil 1 Oil Filter
Dec 11, 2000 (11:34 pm)
The correct Mobil 1 oil filter for the 5.3 L is the M1-206.
#148 of 6471 Low coolant warning-- Test desired.
Dec 12, 2000 (2:05 am)
Several of the circuits in our GM vehicles are simply two component, series connected, voltage monitoring sensors. I would like to produce a three or five step alarm verification chart:
Is the low coolant alarm not functional due to loss of ground to the sensors switch?
Is the permanent low coolant alarm due to a stuck sensor/switch?
Is a non-functional low coolant alarm due to loss of a 5 volt feed on the Light Green wire.
Would one of our technicians be willing to reach under the edge of the surge/ coolant tank and unplug the connector. This should not turn on the low coolant alarm -please stop here and advise me if the alarm - low coolant comes on. Naturally the engine must be on at this time. The connector we are interested in contains two wires - one black and one light green wire.
A voltmeter with the black meter lead going to the connector with the black wire and the red meter lead going to the connector with the light green wire should read +5 volts.
The service manual shows the switch inside the surge coolant container to be a normally open connection. Pressure of the fluid at a low level will allow the switch to put ground on the light green wire dropping its voltage level to 0 volts and this sense lead should turn on the low coolant alarm message.
The wiring diagram for this circuit is shown on page 6-579. If after looking at this circuit I think you will agree that you can safely short the electrical connector that you have disconnected. This should force on the warning message. By doing this we have proven out the ground wire is good and the +5 volt supply is functional plus the chips which turns on the alarm.
If no one wishes to try this I understand for it`s your beautiful truck not mine.
#149 of 6471 Low coolant Post 147 &146
Dec 12, 2000 (3:17 am)
Since your dealer said that he has several other failures of the sensor, this may be a trouble that many may look forward to. According to the service manual the sensor itself can`t be replaced - they must replace the entire coolant surge tank. Would you mind checking your repair order and advise if they refer to the part replaced as a surge tank and in any case give us the part number. This info may help others. Please supply a little more detail of your vehicle such as 1/2 ton Suburban or Tahoe or Yukon and engine size.
On post 146 I think you said that the coolant level rose when you removed the coolant tank cap. I may have misunderstood you and you really removed or loosened the radiator cap. This second action makes sense since the drop in pressure would cause a surge of coolant to be expelled.
If I can obtain my requested tests I`ll produce a simple test or two to prove sensor or wiring troubles. If it would be of interest I`ll try to produce several diagnostic procedures. Maybe at a slow one every week or ten days.
BTW the note about tank replacement for sensor repair appears on page 6-628. We don`t need a scan tool for these basic circuits - these things are a little part of dumbing down America. On many troubles they are a necessity but certainly not all. A volt/ohm meter is often enough.
#150 of 6471 don434 - surge tank
Dec 12, 2000 (3:46 am)
There is no radiator cap on these vehicles. The surge tank has a 15 psi pressure cap, so removing the cap can cause the coolant level to rise. The owner's manual advises: "Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot".
#151 of 6471 Poor FM Reception
Dec 12, 2000 (4:06 am)
I noticed that when I plug my cell phone adaptor into the lighter my FM reception becomes alot worse then when it is fringe areas. Has anyone else noticed this?
#152 of 6471 Driving Lights
Dec 12, 2000 (4:12 am)
I purchased some PIAA 520 driving lights for my 01 XL and planned on hooking them up using the high beam wire as my switch so they would dim with the high beam. I asked PIAA customer service before I purchased them and they said this would work. After I got them in I was talking to a tech support guy and he said that the 00 & 01 Yukons, Subs & Hoes have a "Switching Ground System" and thier is always current running through the high beam wire even when they are off and this method of installation will not work. He said I would have to dim the 520's seperate from the high beam with their switch whenever I meet another car.
Told him this was crap and was going to return them and he said they have an old wiring harness that has an extra ground that would allow me to do what I want. I expect to receive this harness within the next few days and will report back if it works.
Anyone out their hook up some driving lights and try to tie them into the high beam? Would like to hear your story.
#153 of 6471 Driving lights larryk5
Dec 12, 2000 (3:26 pm)
Larry the tech support guy is right. There is always +12 volts present at the low and high beams. When they are turned on, the ground connection is made thus completing the circuit. You can accomplish what you want with a simple relay that has its pull in coil always connected to +12 volts and the other side connected to the ground side wire of the high beam. Then just take a fused 12 supply through the normally open contacts of the relay and connect to the driving lights. I dont remember the color of the ground side wire but im sure Don 454 can help you there. I suspect the harness you speak of does this. One thing to keep in mind is that IMHO the wiring in these vehicles is inadaquatly small in wiregauge. I would definatly use a new dedicated 12 volt supply to power the lights. The harness you speak of may be set up to get the new light supply from the existing headlight supply wire. this will cause your new lights to share power from the headlight wire that is already (IMO) too small. What happens then is the headlights and driving lights will operate dimmer than they should. The light you have been gypted (is that a word?) out of is given up in heat in the wire. Now ive really confused you.Mayby Don can talk you through it better than i can. MIke
#154 of 6471 Sensor Don 454
Dec 12, 2000 (3:46 pm)
I disconected The sensor plug and got no light. I then shorted the wires three different times and got no light. I then measured the voltage across wires and got 12.84. It was 14 something at the battery. After i took the measurement i looked in and the light was on. Explain that one??? I plugged the sensor back in and the light was still on. I turned motor off and back on and the light had reset itself. I wonder if there is a resistor in the sensor as a direct short would not cause light to come on. I should have measured voltage before i shorted wires. Mike