I remember some of you with the cold air on the passenger side of teh truck during the cold winter months. GM has now issued a TSB, here it is. If the dealer give a hassle give them the TSB number and tell them to fix the problem.
I apologize for the long post, but it is the entire TSB, for those with "problem" dealers that don't like to look things up, so they can print it up to take with them.
Passenger SIde of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Drivers SIde (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl
Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)
1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models
2002 Cadillac Escalade
Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:
1.Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.
2.Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.
3.There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.
Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.
Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:
1.Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.
2.Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.
3.Open the hood and install fender covers.
4.Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:
A.Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.
B.Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.
Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.
C.Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.
5.Lower the hood.
6.Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:
A.On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.
B.Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.
C.Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.
D.Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.
E.Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.
7.Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.
8.With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.
9.Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.
10.Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC
11.Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems
only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.
12.Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some
way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:
It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.
A.Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).
B.Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.
C.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from
dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.
D.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet
metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.
E.Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.
13.Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.
14.Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.
15.Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.
16.Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.
17.Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.
18.Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.
19.Lower but do not close the hood.
20.Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
21.Raise the hood.
22.Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips.
23.Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.
Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for
the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked positi
Does anyone know if there is an exact fit light that was supposed to come with the z71 pkg that fits in the circular knockout area of the heavy duty roof rack? I assume that Chevy had/has the part since the light was even advertised in their brochure. (I hear the FEds made them pull it since it could be turned on while driving, thus blinding drivers behind you). I WANT this light. Please email tomtorgimbris.com if you know anything about it. Much thanks, Tom
I too am looking for those lights to put into the Roof Rack of my Z71. The dealership i purchased my vechile from said that they were baja lights and that i could purchse them from most truck accessior stores, or order them online. i'm still though waiting for the dealer to call me back with the dimensions. If you find anything out let me know. Plus i'm currious about how to wire the set up. I haven't looked that far into it, but hoping to find others who have installed the lights or maybe the dealer will give me an idea.
Mark...I will keep you posted...you do the same for me. Be careful...halogen lights, I think will melt the cargo rack plastic cover. I haven't torn off my rack covers yet but I am under the impression the wiring harness is in place and leads to the dash. If not, I am planning on running the lights to a switch location near the cargo door "door lock" switch inside the cargo area. I will just buy a factory switch and use a solvent to eliminate whatever writing is on it. I figure that will be the closest to stock we can get.
I need some help from owners of SUVs, please. Owners only!
Here's my situation: My wife and I are having our first children, twins, in about 2 weeks. We currently own 2 cars: a '93 Buick LeSabre and a '96 Toyota Camry.
I have vowed to never own a minivan, and so the next obvious choice is an SUV. The cars will be too small, especially going on trips. I have looked at the Sequoia and the Yukon, and briefly at the Suburban. In fact, this weekend, I'll be spending a lot of time at the dealerships driving, inspecting, talking, etc.
We will use it mainly for hauling the family around, along with friends from time to time, and for vacations which we take 2-3 times a year. We live in Florida, and visit family in Alabama, spend time in the mountains in Tennessee, do lots of camping, hiking, canoeing, and are planning on going out west within the next 1-2 years. Our travel time will probably increase over the next 2-3 years, and I plan on keeping whatever I choose for at least 3-5 years. We probably won't tow anything since we have nothing to tow. However, that may change in the next 2 years, but that is not my primary concern.
I would like to hear from owners of ALL full size SUVs, but what I want to hear is strictly their personal experiences with their own SUV; no bashing of the competition!!
How have you used your SUV?
How many people do you usually carry around?
How much luggage space do you have?
How much room is there in the 3rd row of seats?
How much trouble is it to get into the 3rd row of seats?
How does the vehicle perform in bad weather conditions? (rain, snow, ice, etc.)
What do you NOT like about your SUV?
I would also like to know approx. how much you paid for yours and what model it is along with the options you purchased. That way, I can better compare apples to apples.
Any comments would be much appreciated. As I stated earlier, I will be doing some investigating this weekend, and will check back on Monday to see what responses I get.
Also, I'd like to know of some good websites for good vehicle reviews besides this one and Consumer Reports.
I just got off the phone with a place here in austin called B&H. They are the people who installed my brush guard and tinted my two front windows. Right now they are installing the lights in a Z71 roof rack. He said that the the wires are all in place and that they run up to the dash, and that they are going to install a switch on or under the dash depending on the customers request. They also suggested using pk lights, which he said were realy bright and that they would not melt the housing unit on the roof rack, but could met the housing unit of the lamps if left on for a long period of time. The price the quoted me to do the work was 250. which is basicly the cost of the lights. I don't but that seems a little pricey for a set of small lights.
I'm going over to the place this weekend and see what it looks like on the Z71 they are working on and see if i can talk him down on the price a little.