Last post on Jul 16, 2013 at 4:58 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
Aug 25, 2004 (12:42 pm)
Re: mssg 932 (the last message)
I got the truck back from the mechanic today. He replaced the "combination switch" which controls the flasher module for the directionals. This stopped the intermittent blinker noise. Cost: $300 parts and labor. (Value of not having to hear the blinker noise ALL the time while driving: priceless!)
He cleared the airbag code and we will wait to see if the idiot light comes back on (and if so, if it is the same error code). Hopefully the combination switch had something to do with the short and the problem is fixed.
The windshield wipers are still all screwed-up. He traced the problem to the circuit board in the wiper motor unit. Cost to fix: ~$300 parts and labor. I will wait on this one as the wipers still work reliably on fast and almost all the time on regular speed. I do know that the wiper circuit board was recalled for 1997 Blazers (mine is a 1998). I'm sure it is probably the same board so it would be nice if Chevy recalled mine also (Yeah right, fat chance!).
#934 of 3676 Re: Electrical gremlins '98 Blazer [sockpuppet1969]
Aug 25, 2004 (7:36 pm)
I believe the DTC code you reference is actually B0036. The code detects an abnormal voltage signal from the airbag discriminating sensor (ADS). The right hand discriminating sensor (located in back of the front bumper) contains a resistor that sends a determinate voltage to the SDM(Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module). When that voltage exceeds 3.65 volts for more than 5 consecutive engine starts, the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) engages. While the entire circuit and its loads may need testing, I suggest you start with the easy possibility first. Since you mention the problem is intermittent, visibly check the wiring at the right hand discriminating sensor. You will be looking for a yellow wire (CKT 2160) and a black and white wire (CKT 2151). These wires lead to the left hand discriminating sensor. Carefully examine both wires for any breaks or chafing. Also note that CKT 2160 (yellow wire) and CKT 2151 (black and white wire) continue their circuits from the left hand sensor. Therefore, you should see two yellow wires and two black and white wires at the left hand sensor. No guarantee chaffed wiring is the cause, but it's a cheap fix before you start down the road of replacing airbag system components.
#935 of 3676 Jimmy is a LEMON
Aug 26, 2004 (11:25 pm)
I have a 99 Jimmy. The first year the LCD lights in the buttons on the dashboard and steering wheel started to go. Now less than 1/2 work and they're still going. The cigarette lighter also went. Replaced twice and lasted a couple of weeks and then gave up. The cargo cover kept falling off. The dealership ordered new cargo covers twice, none of which stayed any better. They finally gave up. The water pump went. This is all the first year! The stereo had to be replaced last year.
Now on to the more serious problems. 3-4 months ago the ball bearings went on the front right wheel. It turned out that the way the vehicle is designed this is part of the wheel assembly which needs to be completely replaced. It cost almost $600, adding several hundred to the cost of what it would have been if designed to be a separate part. When the dealership repaired the problem they didn't tighten all the nuts properly. Being that these are aluminum wheels, if all nuts are not tightened completely, the resulting vibrations will shake the other bolts loose. The wheel almost fell off my Jimmy in the middle of the highway. All that was holding the wheel on were two bolts and none with any nuts left on them. Three posts were broken off completely. I learned from the tow truck driver that this is not an uncommon problem with aluminum wheels. This happened to my cousin twice! If there's a choice, always go with steel wheels. Do I need to explain how dangerous a wheel falling off in the middle of a highway can be? This month the alternator went, coincidently on the same highway, only a few hundred yards closer to home than when the wheel fell off. I even got the same tow truck driver. The replacement alternator happened to carry a lifetime warrantee. Why couldn't they put this quality an alternator in the car in the first place. I've always owned GM. First a 69 Buick Sportswagon that lasted over 220,000 miles, then a 72' Chevy Chevelle that I wrecked at 130,000 miles, almost never had problems and was still going strong. The last car I had before moving into NYC for 20 years where you have to be crazy to have a car was a 79 Bonneville which I gave to my mother and it lasted over 170,000 miles. All these were very reliable cars. Never on any of them did we have to replace the alternator or the bearings. Incidentally, the ball bearings on the left front wheel are now going. This vehicle is junk.
Also consider that GM used many of the same parts across divisions and product lines. I just don't understand that with improving technology such as brake pads that will last 100,000 miles, how they can't make parts that will last at least as long as in the past and put them into their vehicles in the first place. I refer you back to my previous vehicles and the problems with the ball bearings and the alternator. I also refer you to the replacement alternator having a lifetime warranttee and they didn't put one into the car intially. I was just speaking with my neighbor who has an 89 Ford F-150. He's never had a problem with ball bearings and didn't have to replace his alternator until about 140-150,000 miles.
The only reason I can come up with is that GM is designing cars with planned obsolecence in mind. This way they make more money on repairs and quicker replacement of vehicles. Some of these problems can be dangerous such as the aluminum wheels as described earlier and the alternator and water pump. Let's say they die in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere in such adverse conditions such as extreme cold or heat and you're going to be stuck there for hours your life could be at risk. Any part that can totally incapacitate your car in it's failure should be designed to last. GM also designs too many of it's parts in combination so that if a smaller problem occurs a whole assembly needs to be replaced to fix the problem at much greater expense. This is the bearing I mentioned before as well as the dashboard lights with cost way too much to replace. GM is guilty of greed and in the pursuit of such a willingness to put it's customer's lives, or at least well being, at risk, just so they can keep dipping into your pockets after the initial purchase. Until GM changes their ways of doing business and start showing more concern for their reputation and customers over profit, do not buy GM. Incidentally, so much for the GMC advertising claims of Professional Grade Quality and Precision Engineering.
Aug 31, 2004 (2:49 am)
Sorry about your Jimmy Problems, but disagree about the aluminum wheels. I service my Blazer and Explorer regularly and always pull the wheels to check the brakes at every service. I've had aluminum wheels on my previous Explorers and present Blazer and never had any problem with them coming loose. I think the problem is that they where not tightened down properly. They should be tightened down to 100 foot pounds. I've had a lot of GMs and Fords, and the Fords seem to hold up better. I'm replacing the Blazer with another Explorer next year.
#937 of 3676 Familiar Gripes
Aug 31, 2004 (6:55 pm)
My '96 Jimmy bought used in '99 at 54k miles and the troubles it has put me through lists as follows:
*1st water pump 74k - $200
*2nd water pump 103k - $275 (labor increased)
*ABS sensor (caused rear wheels brakes to not engage, wearing out front frequently) No cost due to a recall - lots for front brakes replacement
*Brake Power Booster(wife driving lost all braking)$390
*Wiper Module Recall - No Cost
*Two batteries within 2 years
*A/C Compressor & Dryer Assy - $1061
*New Cooling System components including a new plastic tank, manifold gasket & another water pump plus hoses - all in all about $800 in parts plus labor - $1942
*That day I drove it home heard a fluttering noise from the engine and low oil pressure, took it back and ended up with having a rod & main bearing replacement - parts n' labor totaling $3017.
I took as good of care with this thing as I've always provided for my vehicles through the years, many of which lasted easily into the 200,000 mile mark - Japanese and American, so I know how to sustain good cars. This Jimmy is not a good car. Clearly this line was put out there to compete in a white-hot SUV market before it was tested beyond the design phase.. We here, in effect, did the testing and the results are clear, to me. So now, lets talk about why Toyota & Honda are consistently nos. 1 & 2 in our auto market for the last few years. American made - I give up on that. I cannot afford it again and am very afraid to take the chance. Sorry Detroit Auto Workers. Your management has let you/us down. - Stephen Tarr, Hanford, CA
#938 of 3676 And Then...
Aug 31, 2004 (6:58 pm)
Almost forgot.. Needs new upper/lower ball joints up front & the fuel pump (in the gas tank) is crapping out. Here's 'nuther $1000. I call uncle. Time to get out of this car, if I can.
#939 of 3676 '99 Blazer, Air Conditioner, Brakes, and Autotrac
Sep 02, 2004 (12:12 pm)
My first post here! I have a 1999, Chevrolet Blazer, LS, 4WD, 2D with 77k miles. Any feedback or suggestions regarding my 3 conditions would be appreciated!
1. Air conditioner was working fine this summer. Then after sitting for 4 days, the air conditioner does not produce any cold air. Period. I checked the fuses in the dash and they appear fine.
2. Hard to believe, but I still have the original disc brakes. (Knock on wood) Any suggestions regarding replacement? The dealer wanted some ABSURD amount to replace the disc brakes. No weird noises yet, but they braking is "soft" compared to original condition.
3. The Autotrac system is not shifting properly. Now that Winter is approaching this is a concern! I cannot shift out of 2WD using the Autotrac pushbuttons. The 4W Hi and 4W Lo buttons will "blink" but not become steady in color to indicate the transition. I can tell when driving that the Blazer remains in 2WD when the 4W Hi is blinking. Sounds like trouble to me.
Thank you all!
#940 of 3676 Re: '99 Blazer, Air Conditioner, Brakes, and Autotrac [ungarn]
Sep 03, 2004 (6:43 am)
I think I can help with problem #3. My 2001 Blazer had the same problem last winter. Took it to the dealer and it was a bad connector for the electronic 4x4 system. Mine was still under warranty, but I think it was only around $50 and they had the car for maybe an hour.
#941 of 3676 sockpuppet
Sep 03, 2004 (11:14 am)
If your wiper problem is just the circuit board, it should cost less than $100 to replace. The part runs about $55 or $60, labor should not be much, it takes about 20 minutes on a slow day to replace.
#942 of 3676 Noise on front passenger side
Sep 03, 2004 (2:36 pm)
I haven't had a chance to read these posts for a while. Regarding post 925 by "ault", I had the same situation. It turned out to be the hood hinge. The hole for the hinge bolt is quite a bit larger than the bolt and the hood moves up and down making a "clunking" sound when going over rough pavement. There was a Service Bulletin issued for this and the number is 01-08-63-001. The "fix" is to remove the hinge bolt, install a cone shaped washer and reinstall the bolt. I purchased the washers and did the job myself in about 10 minutes. The part number for the washers is 12383460 and I paid $5.18 for two. I haven't had the "clunking for two and a half years. Credit for the info goes to Alldata.