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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

3674 messages,  Last post on May 10, 2013 at 1:58 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV

    

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Messages Page 55 of 368

#534 of 3674 1996 GMC Jimmy SLE by chomz78

Jul 09, 2002 (7:54 am)

I realize that this is the forum for problems, and it becomes depressing. I've owned this truck since 1997. I've put on 85000 miles since then, for a total of 106000 miles. THe truck runs as nicely and as smoothly as it did in 1997. It did need a timing arm for the engine belt, and ball-joint (common problem under warranty). I've had minor problems with the Thermostat ( no heat in upstate ny in the winter is BAD!) but that is more of a result of cheap thermostat. Interior wise, my power seat broke, which is fine with me. It is right where i want it
 
Overall, when someone asks me about my truck, i have nothing but great things to say. Im getting a new truck in the month. I wish they still made Jimmy's, i want a new one. Im leaning towards Jeeps now for that reason. BUT i loved my truck so much that i am looking for a new used one.
 
PS: My aunt drives a 2000 Jimmy, and a friend drives a 1998 Blazer...that turnsignal noise is a problem. THe problem is actually in the steering column with the turn signal. For what my friend paid to get it fixed, he suggested that my aunt just turn up her radio
 
chomz78aol.com

#535 of 3674 Spark Plug Removal by cliffwilson

Jul 10, 2002 (5:11 pm)

Beginning in 2000, the Blazer's 4.3L engine is equipped with a slightly longer spark plug (the insulator is 1/8 inch greater than in previous years). In reading the service manual, removal of the plugs is advised through the wheel wells. A sensible suggestion, and probably the only way to reach the plugs on the 90 degree engine. However, access to the middle plug on the driver's side is blocked by the intermediate shaft of the steering column. It is a circumstance not mentioned in the manual. Clearly, one can access the plug after removal of the intermediate shaft. However, has anyone been able to remove the driver's side middle plug without removing the intermediate shaft? If so, how was it accomplished?

#536 of 3674 upper ball joints by c5862

Jul 11, 2002 (9:56 am)

I received a letter from GM to extend my 96 Blazer 4x4 upper ball joints warrant to 8 year / 80kmi. Could anyone tell me how to inspect those ball joints? If ball joints were worn or damaged (GM said those joints could separate.), what kind of symptoms will develop?
 
john

#537 of 3674 Spark Plug Removal by abc246

Jul 12, 2002 (7:45 am)

These plugs last 100k miles, you have that on a 2k Blazer? If so, I wouldn't replace that one. I had a Toyota Supra with extended plug life that were to be replaced at 60k. I drove that car to 145k with all the orginal plugs!

#538 of 3674 100k plugs by steve_ HOST

Jul 12, 2002 (4:51 pm)

I've heard it's a good idea to pull them at ~60,000 miles anyway just to make sure none of them "freeze" in place. You could always inspect them and put them back in.

Steve
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#539 of 3674 100k plugs by abc246

Jul 15, 2002 (10:43 am)

Removing the plugs defeats the purpose of having extended service plugs. I have not had any problems removing plugs with 100k on them. If my 99 Blazer still runs perfect at 100k (it now has 71k) I will leave them in longer.
 
I have found that you can actually do some damage with more frequent removals to the spark plug wires unless you are very careful.

#540 of 3674 not sure you can always trust these guys, but by steve_ HOST

Jul 15, 2002 (10:55 am)

fwiw:
Tom and Ray
 
Searching the net for frozen spark plugs turns up very little, so maybe it's nothing to worry about.

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

#541 of 3674 JIMMY - Getting not so good vibrations by ronamri

Jul 20, 2002 (8:00 am)

I had a similar problem with vibrations, the cause of which could not be found until they got severe. Vibrations would occurr upon takeoff and deceleration but would smooth out on the highway. Problem was eventually found to be a bad U-joint. This was probably caused by the problems I had with the valve body in the tranny (it had to be replced at $900 P&L.)The tranny would hesitate shifting into second and then slam the drivetrain. In addition I have had to have the fuel pump, injectors, battery, passenger seat, carpeting, warped trim, and radio (twice)all replaced under warranty. Other than the windshield wipers intermittently not working, and the mysterious turn signal clicking that stops when I apply the brake (multifunction relay switch behind the glove box $400) this has been a sweet ride.

#542 of 3674 rotors and pads by mm007

Jul 26, 2002 (7:20 am)

I'm looking to replace the pads and rotors in my 1995 blazer. The original pads were replaced at 35k and 60k. Then the previous owner griped about the quick wear. The pads they put in at 60k have not needed replacement until now 113k.
 
I am interested to know if anyone has advice about which pads to purchase. Are there pads that will last longer and are there pads that will improve break feel. I feel like I have to stand on the brakes to get the car to stop.
 
Finally, I have the same question about rotors. Has anyone had experience with aftermarket rotors which improve braking (cross drilled etc.).

#543 of 3674 Brand New 2002 blazer - very loud engine - please help by easheer

Jul 29, 2002 (1:23 am)

Hi,
 
I'd like to start off by saying I know absolutely nothing about cars, so I am turning to all of you for some advice.
 
I just purchased a new 2002 Blazer, and have had it for 2 weeks. It has 600 miles on it. I have noticed something with the Blazer which I have never experienced with any other vehicle I have owned.
 
Sometimes when I am driving the engine is extremely loud, and has very poor acceleration. Poor acceleration to the point where it feels I am fighting the gas pedal to get the car to move. Acceleration which doesn't seem consistent with a 4.3L V6. Then I'll be driving and all of the sudden it goes away and the engine is quiet, with great acceleration, which is how the drive should be. I'll drive for 10 minutes or so, and then all of the sudden the engine becomes very loud again with very poor acceleration. Then it will switch back to being quiet with good acceleration. This happens throughout my ride. Also I am always driving on level surfaces because there are no hills where I live. One more thing, I live in Las Vegas where temperatures right now exceed 100 degrees daily.
 
Is this normal for a new vehicle? Could the high temps have something to do with this? Can someone please help me? I took it back to the dealer and they said there were no problems, but it just seems the engine would be more consistent that this. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Messages Page 55 of 368

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