Last post on May 10, 2013 at 1:58 PM
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#3622 of 3674 Re: 1996 Blazer LS Ignition Coil [quantumtouchfl]
Mar 24, 2011 (2:07 pm)
A ignition coil degrades over time. You never know how bad it was until you replace it. The coil should be replaced at least every 100,000 miles. The same applies to the ICM (Ignition Control Module) in the distributor. That device should be replaced when you replace the coil. Be sure to use heat sink paste (not dielectric grease) on the heat sink plate under the ICM and use new GM attachment screws because they serve as the ground for the ICM. Theuy are probably rusty by now. I recomend using Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Grease (heat sink paste) which is available at AMAZON or most electronics or computer parts stores for about $6 .. Always use a NAPA (or equal) distributor cap and rotor with brass electrodes. It is their most expensive Echlin cap and rotor.
As far as white smoke coming out of the exhaust on acceleration, that indicates worn valve seals. That has always been a sore spot with Chevrolet S10 Blazers. Those seals usually only last about 30,000 miles before a puff of white smoke starts appearing out the tailpipe on start up. It will continue to get worse until the plugs start to foul and reaches the point that you will have to switch to AC Delco CR45TS spark plugs which are a higher heat range. After long periods of idleing (high vacuum) the white smnoke is at its worst when accelerating.
Black smoke indicates the fuel injectors eeds to be cleaned. Use Chevron/Texaco or Shell gasoline with Techron. Techron works wonders for fuel injection systems and in-tank fuel pumps.
#3623 of 3674 Re: 1996 Blazer LS Ignition Coil [quantumtouchfl]
Mar 25, 2011 (6:45 am)
I replaced the coil on my 1998 S10 blazer at 210,000 while trying to cure a cold weather miss. Changing the coil didn't fix it. The coil was about $30 from Rockauto, a web based parts house. The coil is a bit of a PITA to change since it is riveted onto the bracket. Had to grind off the rivet heads and then hammer out the rivets.
The coil probably doesn't have any thing to do with the smoke. Blue or Gray smoke is usually oil getting past the rings and burning with the gas. Black smoke is usually over-rich with fuel.
Another possibility is the transmission overheating (fatal) which will boil out the fluid and it lands on the exhaust pipe, leaving a trail of white or gray smoke.
Mar 25, 2011 (1:20 pm)
It is too late now but GM/AC Delco offers a replacement bracket with bolts in a package that will allow you to install a new ignition coil without grinding off the old rivets and re-using the old bracket.
#3625 of 3674 Re: 1996 Blazer LS Ignition Coil [johnss10]
Mar 26, 2011 (10:26 am)
OK... Thank you for the info John... The smoke I believe is a white/gray... the plugs are all clean... Transmission was rebuilt about four years ago... and running great. I suspect it was an ignition problem... as it runs great in all speeds and loads... just the smoke... and I experienced this before about six years ago... when my plugs had 100K on them. I only saw the smoke on hard excelleration... I went to check the plugs and as soon as I touched number one plug wire with the plug wire pliers to pull it off... the wire... fell off the boot... it had burned completely through and was just held together by a thread. As soon as I changed the wires, plugs, cap and rotor... the smoke and the check engine light went away. Up until now. I am intalling a new cap/rotor with brass contacts this weekend... and see what happens...
Again... thank you.
#3626 of 3674 Re: 1996 Blazer LS Ignition Coil [duntov]
Apr 08, 2011 (7:20 am)
Thank you so much for the info.... I use only Chevron fuel... and at the same station. There is no smoke at start up... or during idle... before and after warm up... only a dusty looking smoke... on hard acceleration from 50 mph and up. I check spark plugs every six months... Bosch Platinum single electrode... I am on my second set of wires... and wish now that I had ordered the Jacobs wires five years ago... when I placed my last order for parts on my 81 Grand Prix... best wires I have ever used. I have not tested my wires in some time... but they are factory Delco... and I am sure they have over 100K on them by now. I will be looking at spark plug wires this weekend at the parts store... AutoZone... where I got my brass cap and rotor... brass... five year warrantee... best deal I could find local and on the internetl... made a big difference in idle.
The coil... is mounted exteral of the distributor on a bracket attached to the intake. I will take your advice and change it... just as a matter of pricipal... and having 225K on it... but I will do the wires first... as they are the weak link in the ignition system.
I did not know about the heat sink grease... thank you... I was using die electric when I changed out ignition modules... still on the OEM one as well. I have a used back up... tested and ready to go.
I have not seen any smoke since I changed the dist cap and rotor... but not 100% sure I have done any hard acceleration... I will do so... before changing testing and changing wires this weekend and let you know.
Also... I have used AmsOil Synthetics in this vehicle since I purchased it... used... with 80K... and all original plugs, wires, cap and rotor which I ended up changing at 110K miles.
That's all for now...
#3627 of 3674 Re: 1996 Blazer LS Ignition Coil [quantumtouchfl]
Apr 08, 2011 (7:50 am)
My best advice is if u own a gm use acdelco parts. For some reason I have seen gm's do some crazy things with no deco parts so just my advice to you!
#3628 of 3674 Re: 1996 Blazer LS Ignition Coil [quantumtouchfl]
Apr 08, 2011 (9:37 am)
The OE ignition coil on my 1991 S10 Blazer included a bracket that is bradded to the coil frame and a replacement coil does not come with a bracket. Therefore, I had to purchase a GM coil bracket and bolt kit separately in order to mount a new coil. However, the ignition coil on your 1996 Blazer does not mount the same way as the coil on my 1991 S10 Blazer and you can reuse your OE coil bracket.
Silicone di-electric heat sink grease comes in the package with a new ICM (Ignition Control Module) but don't use it. Look up "di-electric" in the dictionary and it means "insulator" . You do not want a grease that is an insulator on a heat sink. The purpose of a heat sink is to "conduct" heat away from a electronic device so that is why you should use Arctic Silver 5 heat sink paste on the ICM heat sink. . The only reasons silicone grease is recommended for the ICM heat sink is because it will not run out when it gets hot and it prevents corrosion. Always use new mounting screws when you install a ICM because the OE screws are probably corroded. The ICM is grounded through one of those mounting screws which passes through a brass sleeve in the ICM. Excessive heat and a poor ground due to corrosion will rapidly degrade an ICM .
I use an Accel ICM because they send a longer electronic square wave to increase ignition coil dwell time to the ECM which gives the coil higher voltage saturation. An new AC Delco ignition coil is compatible with the Accel ICM. I have heard bad things about AC Delco Ignition Control Modules (ICM) but I suspect that rumor is from people who are using aftermarket high output ignition coils with a OE distributor and ICM. An AC Delco ICM cannot handle the draw of a high output ignition coil.
Use an AC Delco ignition coil or good brand of replacement coil such as NAPA or Standard Motor products if "MADE IN MEXICO" bothers you. IMO, you should avoid Wells (Autozone) ignition and electronic products and they are "MADE IN USA". Wells Electronics made the Norden bomb sight during WW 2 and that device was not accurate.
#3629 of 3674 Is my AC compressor working?
Apr 15, 2011 (6:10 am)
My 1999 Blazer is not blowing cold air or is very very faint. Charge was low so put some more refridgerant in. According to the gague was the correct amount. Also contained a dye and found no leaks.
When I have the ac on the clutch will spin intermentianly every few seconds. sounds a little metallic when it kicks in, like a slight scrap of dry metal. Not sure if it is working or trying to cycle on.
Is the ac clutch suppose to spin constantly when the ac is on?
Going to try a new relay first but any help would be appreciated before I waste money on a new compressor
#3631 of 3674 Re: Is my AC compressor working? [smileyfedex]
Apr 15, 2011 (7:19 am)
Thank you, definitely will. Also just reading up and think I may of screwed up charging the system. I swear the can of 134a with uv dye said to hold the can upside down and periodically turn to 3 oclock position. I watched green liquid funneling through the hose. I am reading you do not want that to happen and should be kept upright at all times.
Did I screw up?