Last post on Jul 16, 2013 at 4:58 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
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Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV
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#3513 of 3676 Re: 1995 Chevy Blazers Bogs out when trying to accerate [groby]
May 21, 2010 (7:41 pm)
Have you changed your PCV valve? Could be stuck. What I have noticed about the 95 is all the sensors. Just one of them can screw it all up. Really quick question on your EGR Valve. What did you use to clean it? If it doesn't get cleaned fully, it will only open partial. I had it happen so then I spent some good time cleaning the gunk out and making sure the Valve had 100% opening. But, EGR Valves can fail too. Not common, but we own the 95 blazer........S&?t Happens
#3514 of 3676 2000 GMC Jimmy
May 31, 2010 (12:31 pm)
My jimmy has been running fine untill recently. I think that there maybe something wrong with my alternator but I am unsure. When I am starting my jimmy it does not want to start and most of the dashboard lights do not want to come on. I try to start it again and it will hesitate starting, then it will start. The lights on the dashboard will then all come on and the gauges will start working after the dinging noise stops. I am also having issues with the four wheel drive system. It also was working untill recently. I try to engage the four wheel drive but it will not come on. Is this due to the alternator?
#3515 of 3676 Re: 2000 GMC Jimmy [drewbie1]
May 31, 2010 (5:51 pm)
Well I would take your truck in and have the battery and/or alternator checked. Most of the time its free at any battery facility. They could let you know within minutes if anyone of those are bad. For your 4 wheel drive, its hard to say. I would try to start with the first problem. With your 4 wheel drive being an all electrical engagement, begin with the simple first.
Jul 03, 2010 (6:52 pm)
I need some help figuring out how to fix a few problems with my Blazer> It's a 2000 LS 4x4 4.3.
1) first problem is that the washer fluid stopped spraying on the front, it does work on the rear. You can't hear anything when you try it for the front.
2) second problem is either the bushings or the pin in the top hinge of the driver's door is wore out because it sags and tries to hang up on the striker plate. How is this replaced?
3) andlastly how do you replace the hood latch cable? Mine is so bad that you about have to force the hood to open it.
Thanks for your help in advance,
#3517 of 3676 Re: Problems [20blazer00]
Jul 03, 2010 (7:57 pm)
Hinge pin kits are available at most autoparts stores. You support the door, knock out the old pin, replace the bushings and put the new pin in. I would advise to rent, borrow, or buy the door spring compression tool. Small spring, very very strong.
Washer pump motor. get a meter and check for voltage at the pump when you push the washer switch. If voltage and no motor movement, replace the motor. No voltage, and you probably have a bad multifunction switch on the column. Check your fuses, too.
Hood latch cable comes as an assembly and you replace the cable and housing both. Double check on that one, but I am not sure you can get the cable by itself.
#3518 of 3676 Re: Problems [20blazer00]
Jul 04, 2010 (3:27 pm)
The windshield washer pumps are in the reservoir. The reservoir is pretty easy to remove. When mine quit pumping, I took it apart, cleaned the pump and connections and put it back together. Worked! You can test the pump with it out of the reservoir. I cut a gallon milk jug in half, and filled it with water to see if it would pump. It may also just need to be primed, which can be done the same way with the cut down milk jug. The pump is about $16 from www.rockauto.com. I've used them for several projects, good parts, good prices, good service. I have no interest in the company, just a satisfied customer.
I have also had the rear washer quit, which turned out to be a hose that had come loose. It could also be the problem with your front washers. Fixing the rear hose involved undoing the torx bolt that holds the pull-down strap, then popping the interior panel loose, re-attach the hose, and put it back together.
Rock Auto also has the door hinge pin kit for less than $4. A locally owned body shop will usually provide the parts and install them for a pretty reasonable price, which is my recommendation, since getting the old ones out can be a pain the first time you do it.
While you're there, ask them to check out the hood latch release. Might just be lube or adjustment. If you need parts, Rockauto has the latch assembly for $26, but I don't see the cable on their catalog.
Good luck. Any questions, post again.
#3519 of 3676 2 95 blazer problems
Jul 06, 2010 (8:26 am)
1st -i think my blend door actuator is bad -for the last few days, the a/c blows only through defrost vent and foot vents regardless of selector position. do i really have to remove the dash to replace the actuator? cannot see anything with glove box removed (as in later model discussions)
2nd -and most important (til winter!!!)- it keeps frying cig lighter elements. new socket (three times), and 5 or 6 elements. works for first few pushes, then blows fuse. ???????????????
#3520 of 3676 Re: 2 95 blazer problems [hewybo]
Jul 06, 2010 (9:37 am)
Are you sure you don't have an underhood vacuum leak? There is a vacuum line that comes off the manifold and goes over near the brake booster. It provides vacuum for the controls on the AC. Common problem is for the hose to dry rot and collapse. The engine will still run okay, because you don't have a vacuum "leak", but the AC controls will go weird because they have no vacuum.
I would sure check for that before tearing into the dash. The vacuum line repair takes maybe five minutes and will cost a couple of bucks for new lines.
#3521 of 3676 Re: 2 95 blazer problems [hewybo]
Jul 06, 2010 (10:29 am)
94 and 95 Blazers are a little different from the 96 and later. These are on what is basically the 93 chassis with the new body style. 9t6 and later are on a different chassis with different electrics and computers.
In either case the default (no vacuum) position for the blend door is to blow air through the defrost and floor (heater) outlets. You may notice this happening while driving up a long hill with a load or at high altitude. The available vacuum under these conditions is not enough to keep the door at the dash vents (A/C).
This could easily be a broken or disconnected vacuum hose. It may also be a defective selector. These are pretty easy to remove from the dash. While it is out, you can see if there is vacuum coming into the selector and going out the various ports as the selector is moved.
If the actuator has to be replaced, then yes the only way is to remove all the dash stuff in the way.
#3522 of 3676 2002 Blazer floating gas gauge
Jul 06, 2010 (5:44 pm)
I have a 2002 Blazer. Also have a friend with a 1996 Jimmy with the same problem.
I was told that the sensors for the gas gauge are on the fuel pump but they've replaced the fuel pump 3 times I didn't ask if the pumps were new or used.
I've asked about this a couple times before, but now that I know that the problem is not unique, I would like to hear some explanations.
They mentioned something about a vent tube going into the gas tank. Does anyone know about that. Is there a chance that could be a problem.
I did get a code that suggested something in the evap system. I changed the gas cap and when the codes came back, the purge valve (the new one was less than half the weight of the old one if that makes any difference, but I had to take the hose end that has the spring off the old one because the one they gave me had a different hose/spring inlet).
Please PM me if you have any info about this problem - it seems that if anyone has ever posted anything, I never got the message.