Last post on May 10, 2013 at 1:58 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
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Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV
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#3462 of 3674 Re: Changing starter motor in 1998 chevy blazer 4.3 V6 [emydee23]
Dec 19, 2009 (7:22 am)
emydee23, did you every get your blazer starter replaced? I'm in the process of replacing my 1998 blazer 4x4 starter now and cannot figure out an easy way to unbolt the wires connected to the solenoid.
After a bunch of twisting and moving around, I finally got the starter to a point to where I can pull it out, but it wont come out unless the wires connected to the solenoid are disconnected. How in the heck do you get a socket to these bolts?
#3463 of 3674 4 WD not working on 95 S-10 blazer
Dec 19, 2009 (10:00 pm)
I've read a number of posts about the vacuum lines, but nothing happens when I push the 4HI or 4LO buttons on the dash - no clicks, no nothing. The 2LO and 4LO lights on the buttons didn't work when the 4WD worked last year, I get that they may just be burned out. The 4HI light still turns on and off when pressed. So is this still a vacuum problem? There was another post that there is a separate electronic control module that controls the shifting between 2 & 4 wheel drive that may need replaced. Should I look to replace that first? It just snowed here about 15", but better late than never.
#3464 of 3674 Re: 97 Jimmy Trans Electrical Problem [kirkathon25]
Dec 21, 2009 (6:02 am)
Did you get it fixed?
#3465 of 3674 Re: 1997 blazer [stealthny]
Dec 21, 2009 (8:35 pm)
This fan problem is the same on the 97 Jimmy. I live in Calgary Ab and It hit -34.6 degrees the other day and sure enough the f-ing thing stoped working. I have tried switching out the speed switch as well and its not that. I think it is something wrong with the fan its self. Somtimes if you do not use the fan for a while like me (never use it in summer at all) it tends to build up with crap and doesn't work. Problem is that in the Blazer as well as the Jimmy you have to cut away at it to get in there and patch it up after. Not sure if thats your problem but it worked for mine. Good luck man.
#3466 of 3674 2000 Blazer pulls left and right on a bumpy road!HELP!
Dec 23, 2009 (1:10 am)
Hi guys I've got a problem with my blazer?This problem is not so bad that I can't drive the truck or anything like that.The truck rides very nice on a smooth road.It pulls to the left just a little.Now when a get on a road with a lot of little bumps or potholes it kinda cuts left and then back right and can be kinda difficult for some to drive.REMEMBER this not terrible but not 100% right,it's maybe 90% percent right.Its like the steering is a little loose or something?I dont know if this is a steering stabilzer,ball joints,tierod ends or maybe even shocks which the truck NEEDS REALLY REALLY BADDDDDD!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#3467 of 3674 Bolt Size Differential Cover 99 Chevy Blazer
Dec 23, 2009 (12:38 pm)
I had trouble finding this info and though it may help someone. Ordered a new cover and neglected to see it did not include the bolts.
This was on a 99 Chevy Blazer 10 bolt and believe was the same for 12 Bolt.
Min Grade 5 5/16 - 18 x 3/4
5/16 is the diameter, 18 would be threads per inch, 3/4 lenght
Found 3 packs of the bolts at Lowes for $1.04 Grade 8, Washers Grade 8 $1.04 per 5 pack
#3468 of 3674 Re: 2000 Blazer pulls left and right on a bumpy road!HELP! [sticky23]
Dec 23, 2009 (1:20 pm)
This is just based on experience with my 99 I just picked up. I replaced all items noted except the sway bar. Looked new. Plus the wheel hubs, idler, pitman arm. My steering wheel is a little off center after a computerized alignment and notice sometimes at higher speeds tends to pull a little in the lane each way. Think most is just the fact it is an older truck.
When I first bought the vehicle as soon as I turned on the truck, the wheel would sink to one side and the same side the wheel was wearing poorly. (Very unsafe ball joints)
Turns out the ball joints, were very poor quality, one wheel hub was bad, pitman and idler arms were bad.
To check wheel hubs, put the front end on some stands or even a side at a time may work. Grab the tires on the side and shake up and down. There should be no movement. Even a little is too much and heard these go frequently. Luckily they are $99 each at Autozone including the sensor which is another issue. plus $20 to replace the nut which is suggested. A garage replacing one side is around $450
To check Pitman and Idler arms I believe there would be play on tires if you grab it and move it side to side. These are about $35 each. Is a little tough to install because of the location. I had to take off the steering box.
To check if its a ball joint take the tire off grab the rotor and pull out on it if it moves its bad get it replaced. They range from $24 for the value brand and $45 each for the higher brand. Remember 2 per side. A garage gets 2.5 hrs per side plus double the cost of the parts.
For the tierod someone wiggle the steering back an forth 10 to 2 o'clock should be enough to see play in the pitman arm,drag link, tie rod ends. If its a sealed boot around the inner tie rod end you can still check it, But just a little more difficult, Still takes anyone that can move the steering wheel back an forth.while you observe the steering knuckles move, No movement at the joint should be scene. No clunking, (if these are fine you may want to avoid replacing, can be a pain to thread the nut on the stud)
If you can do the work yourself depending when any of these were last replaced, it would make sense to do them all at once because you will need an alignment and I paid around $75 .
Make sure you are careful, ball joints will pop right out of place and spring the control arm, that is once you are lucky enough to get them off. Plus the more you take off the easier all this will be.
I paid a Garage $80 to diagnosis the problems unintentionally because I was very new at this. They wanted $1000 for ball joints and 1 wheel hub. I was able to do all this work myself for $800, (not counting shocks, that does not sound like your problem.)
It was very tough work the first time but learned a lot and could do so much faster now. You need good tools. Min 1/2" drive rachet, some PB Blasters, joint pry bar tools, a 24 inch breaker bar, possibly a cheater pipe, I used a 6ft metal fence post.
Wear gloves to protect your hands. Most of the sizes are metric, one of the caliper bolts is 18mm, drove me nuts and almost stripped a nut.
It is easier to loosen the wheel hub while, truck is on the ground, not to take off fully, just loosen.
Hope any part of this helps, this is a ton of research and self expereince I found in many different places.
Jan 06, 2010 (10:01 am)
Hello I have purchased a 1997 blazer. I have had it about 1 month now but cant get it inspected. All he gets are incomplete and not ready codes IE: Evaorator unit: Not Ready
Oxygen Sensor Heater: Not Ready
EGR something: Not Ready
Someone please help I already have 1 ticket for no inspection.
#3470 of 3674 Re: 1999 GMC Jimmy 4x4 with 4.3 just randomly dies while driving [divrdown]
Jan 08, 2010 (10:42 pm)
Try taking the EGR valve off and cleaning it. It will cause the same symptoms
#3471 of 3674 Replacing the belt tensioner
Jan 17, 2010 (1:15 pm)
My '00 Jimmy squeaks all the time. I decided to change the belt tensioner to see if that will fix it. Are there any online guides or anything that I can refer to if needed? I searched around but couldn't find anything.