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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair
3449 messages, Last post on Nov 07, 2009 at 8:55 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: swoodruff (Dec 07, 2007 12:15 pm) |
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Replying to: 0dynasty24 (Aug 06, 2009 1:08 pm) Since the DRL work with the flashlight and in daytime, the photocell must be OK and the body control module (computer) is correctly switching the DRL off, but the headlights aren't coming on. Could be fuse for headlights or headlight relay. A wiring diagram (mine is in another state right now) would let you track down the headlight relay wiring, and then follow the wiring to the trouble spot. |
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Replying to: 0dynasty24 (Aug 06, 2009 1:08 pm) I just checked a GM parts listing for a '98 S series Blazer, and there is a DRL module listed. It is mounted on a bracket next to the headlight relay. There is also a diode listed in the circuit. I wish I could be more help, but the detail on this is very sketchy. I did just find a DRL "typical" schematic for GM, and it shows that if the headlight switch is bad, the DRL will work, but not the headlights. They are fed from different sources. |
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I have a 2002 Chevy Blazer that I took into a local dealership in Miami for exchange of the ignition switch. They returned the car to me with the steering wheel slightly out of center to the left. If you center the wheel while driving the car veers to the right. It did not do this before I had the ignition repair done. Now the dealership tells me that the steering wheel cannot be re-installed out of center since there is a pin that prevents this from happening. They say that the car needs a front end alignment and want to charge me $85 to do it. Are they trying to fool me or does their explanation make any sense? Thanks in advance!
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Replying to: mdiaz0429 (Aug 12, 2009 5:16 am) Try not to be demanding, but explain that this was a problem caused by the dealer and you should not have to pay to correct something they caused. If you bought the Blazer new, that is in your favor and add that to the letter, as well as any GM/Chevrolet purchased new by you or your family. After you've sent the letter, you might try calling, but expect many delays in contacting anyone that has the authority to make them fix the problem. This is just a suggestion because I did that for my mother once and it did work at that time. Good luck and let us know how this turns out.
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The front suspension is out of alignment in relation to the steering wheel. The car will not wander or drift in one direction if you don't mind looking at a off - center steering wheel. If it was not that way before you took it to the dealership, they may have hit a curb or something while moving it around b ecause the steering wheel is not going get off center by itself. The dealership is correct in saying that the steering wheel cannot be realigned without realigning the front wheels. When you aligned the front end of the cars before the late-1970s, you seldom got the car back from the shop with the steering wheel centered when the vehicle was traveling straight ahead. That is because the shop technician did not use the special tool that holds the steering wheel in the correct position while the technician aligns the front wheels. When that happened to me, I just removed the steering wheel and realigned it on the splined steering shaft. That is not the proper way to do it but it achieves the same thing as doing it the correct way by realigning the front wheels. The end of the steering shaft has a "pip" mark at the steering wheel retainer nut and a pip mark on the center line of the steering wheel under the horn button assembly and those should be in alignment. There is also a "pip" mark on the steering shaft at the steering coupler . The coupler is mounted on the centerline of the steering shaft and should be aligned with the pip mark on the end of the steering shaft and the pip mark on the steering wheel. The flexible steering coupler connects the steering shaft to the steering sector. It is more complicated on modern cars because the wheel alignment alone determines the steering wheel position. |
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Replying to: skiextreme2 (Aug 12, 2009 8:40 am) That being said, this vehicle DOES NOT use an alignment slot, though some cars do. And if the steering wheel is installed just one tooth off, it will definitely be turned when the car is going straight. How about this; take it back to the shop and tell them to remove the airbag cover and air bag. This will allow a visual inspection of the steering wheel and shaft. If the alignment marks are not lined up, they pull the wheel and make it right and you should owe them nothing. If the marks are lined up properly, then you need to find out how the alignment became altered. One other question; have the tires been rotated? It is not uncommon to have a bad tire cause a slight pull on the steering, resulting in the wheel being turned slightly when the vehicle is going straight. I have a BFGoodrich Radial T/A on a '99 Blazer right now that is doing this. Tire is smooth, wearing properly, but if I rotate it to the front, the vehicle will pull slightly in the direction it is installed. Put it on the rear, no problem. |
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Replying to: mdiaz0429 (Aug 12, 2009 5:16 am) You are going to have to be really firm with these people. The service writer's job is to generate as much work and income as possible. Customer Satisfaction is not on their list of things to do. As a matter of fact, they are experts at stonewalling, to minimize the amount of "come back" work, since it reduces the incoming cash flow. Demand to speak to the service manager, and don't take "no" for an answer until they have taken the necessary steps to resolve the problem. It doesn't hurt to reference the regional service organization, and the better business bureau. If this steering wheel was straight when you took it in, then they are obligated to return it in that condition, one way or another. If it has to have an alignment, I wouldn't have the dealer do it. Take it to a locally owned, independent alignment shop. I think the suggestion to pull the airbag and check the marks is a really good one. |
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| I took the starter off of my deer lease blazer a couple of months ago and had it tested at Autozone. It passed and I am just now getting around to installing it again and my memory is failing. The solenoid has 1 large post in the middle and 2 small posts, one of the small posts has an S beside it. I know that the heavy positive cable from the battery goes on the large post and I think the small purple wire goes on the S terminal. I don't remember where the other two wires go (they are joined together). The connector on those 2 is large enough to go on the large post and I think that is where they go. I seem to remember the second small post didn't have anything on it. Before I put these other 2 wires on the large post, I am hoping to get some advice from someone who knows the correct connection. Thanks. Roy | |
| I'm stuck in costa rica with my 98 S-10 blazer 4x4. i need a new pitman arm, but they tell me they have to raise/lift the engine to replace it. it makes no sense to me, but i'm far from being any kind of mechanic. a friend recommended this forum. thanks for any advice. | |
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