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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

3449 messages,  Last post on Nov 07, 2009 at 8:55 AM

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#3365 of 3449 Re: Popping noise in front end [stewart_h25] by 1986blazer May 08, 2009 (9:49 am)
Replying to: stewart_h25 (May 08, 2009 4:50 am) check your cv axles and u-joints
#3366 of 3449 Re: Popping noise in front end [stewart_h25] by sealteam8 May 08, 2009 (11:54 am)
Replying to: stewart_h25 (May 08, 2009 4:50 am) You can check the sway bar end links in the front end as well! They go bad and make a popping or clunking sound
#3367 of 3449 98 Jimmy No 3rd Gear by jimbob98 May 14, 2009 (6:06 am)
I have a 98 Jimmy 4wd that was working basically fine. Suddenly, on way to work, 3rd gear stopped working. Shifts smooth through 1st & 2nd, but then acts like it shifts from 2nd to Neutral. Reverse works fine. I drained fluid (milk chocolate color) and magnet had abt 1/4" of sludge on it (not gritty at all, but only on magnet). Replaced filter, topped up fluid, no change. What is likely issue? I'm needing to get this back on the road w/ as few $$ as possible, willing to put my time into it. Do I get a rebuild kit for it? (Never rebuilt tranny, but did an engine).   Thanks for your help. Replies to this message: johnss10 (May 15, 2009 1:37 pm) quantumtouchfl (May 19, 2009 8:50 am)
#3368 of 3449 1986 chevy blazer wont start but it does turn over by kylecassady May 14, 2009 (4:16 pm)
I have replaced the spark plugs spark wires and battery every thing is hooked up right it turns over but doesn't start. can any one help?
#3369 of 3449 Re: 98 Jimmy No 3rd Gear [jimbob98] by johnss10 May 15, 2009 (1:37 pm)
Replying to: jimbob98 (May 14, 2009 6:06 am) The 3/4 clutch pack is the notorious weak link in these transmissions. Yours are gone. These vehicles don't have any kind of a transmission temperature gauge, so it is hard to know that it is slipping and getting hot until it's too late. This transmission will require either replacement or complete rebuild, because the burned up clutches have spread grit throughout the entire trans, including the torque converter, which you will never get cleaned out.   I know this is not what you were hoping for, but been there, done that. Design life is about 75,000 miles, anything beyond that you are living on borrowed time.   There are several rebuild kits around and most have upgraded 3/4 clutch parts (Google). There are DVD videos available to take you through the rebuild process, and some Barnes and Noble stores or Amazon have books. Like you, I have never done one of these. I kept the old transmission to rebuild when I had a used one installed, so I will build it with the upgraded parts.   Running in 4th is a large part of the problem, because the low engine RPM's don't turn the pump fast enough to build up real good pressure to hold the clutches engaged. That's why the recommendation is to to only tow in 3rd gear. I drive around town in 2nd, so the 3/4 clutches don't even get used part of the time. Replies to this message: quantumtouchfl (May 19, 2009 8:50 am)
#3370 of 3449 Re: 98 Jimmy No 3rd Gear [johnss10] by quantumtouchfl May 19, 2009 (8:50 am)
Replying to: johnss10 (May 15, 2009 1:37 pm) Thats about the size of it... my 96 Blazer got 160K miles before the 3-4 clutch pack burned up... no warning... just started as I was accelerating on the onramp to 275 in Tampa... engine RPMs screaming but going no where. Called the dealership the next day... they would not touch it because it had over 100K on it. I believe I got the high millege do to flushing the transmission myself at the dealership I worked at. I purchased the vehicle with 81K... was a lease vehicle to an A/C business. The dealership recommended a local trans rebuild shop... I checked them out... they had every piece of equipment for checking all internal parts of the transmission under operating conditions... before reusing in a rebuild... said it saved time knowing that everything worked before they put back into vehicle. I got a three year warrantee... if I used synthetic ATF. As I have been using Amsoil since 1978... I had no problem with that. They also upgraded the (3-4) 7 clutch (clutch pack)... to a 9 clutch (clutch pack)... Jeff said it would last longer. Those are the only two upgrades I have make. Transmission felt the same as before... very happy with their work. Price was about $2100.00   TJ
#3371 of 3449 SES light on P0171 and P0174 by auto9999 May 20, 2009 (2:21 pm)
My 2000 Blazer 4wd Trailblazer trim 87,000 original miles has SES light steady on. The codes are P0171 and P0174. I removed the MAF sensor and cleaned it with MAF cleaner spray. I put the MAF sensor back. I restarted the car and the SES is still on.   The next thing I want to check is vacuum and PCV hoses.   Can anyone tell me exactly where they are? Can I inspect those hoses easily without removing any parts? Replies to this message: skiextreme2 (May 20, 2009 4:40 pm) auto9999 (May 20, 2009 6:56 pm) jlflemmons (May 20, 2009 6:22 pm) auto9999 (May 20, 2009 7:02 pm) auto9999 (May 23, 2009 8:54 am) jlflemmons (May 23, 2009 3:29 pm)
#3372 of 3449 Re: SES light on P0171 and P0174 [auto9999] by skiextreme2 May 20, 2009 (4:40 pm)
Replying to: auto9999 (May 20, 2009 2:21 pm) Just a thought, but did you clear the codes after you cleaned the MAF sensor and reinstalled it? Replies to this message: auto9999 (May 20, 2009 6:56 pm)
#3373 of 3449 Re: SES light on P0171 and P0174 [auto9999] by jlflemmons May 20, 2009 (6:22 pm)
Replying to: auto9999 (May 20, 2009 2:21 pm) I'll bet you a nickel you have a vacuum leak. Check the vacuum lines up by the brake booster. There is a large line coming from the intake manifold over to a check valve (small, about the diameter of a nickel). From there, it goes down to the vacuum resevoir in the fender, and down to a hard line. Change all three of the lines. I had these lines on both of my blazers go bad, one at 76K, the other at 84K.   For the PCV hose, a little trick to save you some money. You have a hard plastic line with a straight vacuum line on one end, and a molded right angle hose on the other. For whatever reason, the parts houses around here don't carry that assembly, it is listed as a dealer item. $$$$$   But they do carry the PCV hose assembly for the 5.7L V8 for about $5-6. The hard plastic portion is too long for the 4.3L. Simple, just buy the assembly for the 5.7L, but DON'T TRY TO PULL THE HOSES OFF! Instead, try to push them further onto the hard plastic. This will cause the hose to bulge out and break the glue seal holding them onto the hard plastic. Do the same thing on the original PCV assembly from your Blazer, then just put the new rubber pieces from the 5.7 onto the shorter hard plastic piece from your 4.3L. There you go, a perfectly good PCV vacuum hose assembly for a lot less money than what the dealer would charge!     Replies to this message: auto9999 (May 20, 2009 7:02 pm)
#3374 of 3449 Re: SES light on P0171 and P0174 [skiextreme2] by auto9999 May 20, 2009 (6:56 pm)
Replying to: skiextreme2 (May 20, 2009 4:40 pm) Hi skiextreme2 ,   Thanks for your message. I did not clear the code, and that was what I was wondering about. I presumed that the code would renew itself... Do I have to clear the code to see if my cure worked?

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