Last post on Jul 16, 2013 at 4:58 PM
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#3354 of 3676 Removing starter motor in 1995 Chevy Blazer 4WD 6 cylinder
Mar 31, 2009 (9:45 am)
What is the easiest and best way to remove a starter motor from a 1995 Chevy Blazer 4WD 6 cylinder? Should I remove the connections first? I tried removing the connections from the starter by going through the wheel well.
I also tried dropping the starter to get to the connections, but could not get the starter to come out. Do I need to take the flywheel cover off, or should I be able to get the starter out without removing the cover? The flywheel cover bolts are very tight (cannot loosen even with air tools). Please advise on how to take starter motor out. Thanks.
#3355 of 3676 Re: Removing starter motor in 1995 Chevy Blazer 4WD 6 cylinder [chevyride22]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Mar 31, 2009 (10:17 am)
* Place the vehicle on a hoist.
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Brush end mounting bracket (if equipped).
3. Solenoid wiring.
o Raise the vehicle.
4. Skid plate (if equipped).
5. Bolts and the two brackets holding the brake pipe to the crossmember.
6. Crossmember (three bolts on each side).
7. Bracket holding the transmission fluid cooler lines to the flywheel housing, brace rod to the flywheel housing, and/or the lower flywheel housing if necessary.
8. Two bolts holding the starter to the engine.
9. Starter and the shim (if equipped).
1. Starter and shims in their original locations (if equipped) to the engine with bolts.
* Starter mounting bolts to 43 Nm (32 lbs. ft.) .
2. Lower flywheel cover (if removed).
3. Transmission lines bracket to the housing (if equipped).
4. Brace rod to the housing (if equipped).
5. Crossmember to the frame end with six bolts.
6. Two brake line brackets to the crossmember with bolts.
7. Skid plate (it equipped).
8. Solenoid wiring
9. Brush end brace and wiring (if equipped).
* Brush end brace nuts to 11 Nm (97 lbs. in.) .
10. Wires to the solenoid terminals.
11. Negative battery cable.
#3356 of 3676 fuel gauge bounce and high speed hesitations
Apr 01, 2009 (4:10 am)
I read a lot about fuel gauge bouncing, some say possible grounding issues on sending unit. The bouncing needle works fine till half tank then stays there. When i first start the truck it will slowly go to roughly the right spot then bounce up and down. Once I start moving it goes to half a tank and stay there. The whole thing is kind of annoying at best, but can be dealt with. I guess I should state this is a 99 Jimmy with about 130k miles. I have nearly replaced the entire front end ( ball joints, a frame, bearings and hub) Last thing I had to replace was muffler system to cold power loss. But the most important thing I want to fix is the high speed power hiccups. I do 150 miles a day on interstate. Low speeds this vechile is very powerful, But at 70 mph, I am getting this random hesitation or power hiccup. It is rather hard to explain as it is hard to realize unless you push the truck, but if you push it to far it will just shift down and go like a bat of hell. Any ideas what i can look at? Thanks in advance
Apr 20, 2009 (4:22 pm)
I have a question for you all. I have just noticed that my blazer leans on the driver's side( or its somehow lower on that side). Now is this common for blazers? I just happened to look at the parking lot at work which is flat and level, but my blazer was sloping on the drivers' side.
2000 Blazer LS 4x4
#3358 of 3676 Re: lean [20blazer00]
Apr 21, 2009 (3:00 pm)
This is not uncommon in 4X4's they use torsion bars in the front suspension, since the front drive axle's go through where the coil springs would be. There is a ride height setting procedure in the Haynes or Chilton repair manual. Also, a front end shup will do this as part of the alignment. The alignment may well be out as well, so probably best to take it to an independent, locally-owned shop.
#3359 of 3676 Re: fuel gauge bounce and high speed hesitations [demonhide]
Apr 21, 2009 (4:08 pm)
These two things might be related. The high speed miss could be a weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. Cheapest/easiest is the fuel filter.
The gauge is either a poor connection, or more likely a worn float assembly. The float assembly and fuel pump come together for these vehicles, so replacing the fuel pump/fuel sender may fix both problems. About $130 for the parts. I'd check with Rock Auto on the net first, ususlly have best prices.
#3360 of 3676 96 gmc jimmy blowing fuses.....
Apr 25, 2009 (9:18 am)
My 96 GMC Jimmy keeps blowing the #9 fuse. which control the fuel pump, fuel control relay sensor, the ecm. All of these have been changed and yet it still blows the fuse. Stopping the engine from running. After they were changed it started but when i put it in reverse it shut off. And blow it again. Now when i put the key in the position it blows the fuse.
Apr 26, 2009 (3:35 pm)
To me that sounds as if you either have a short or a bare wire exposed.Maybe in the fuel system, like between the tank and body. I'd guess that when you put it in gear it viberates and shorts out or maybe just cranking it causes enough to short the wire(s) out. I'd have to start there, and run down the wires until you find it.
#3362 of 3676 Fuel pump wiring harness
Apr 27, 2009 (2:48 am)
Whenever the fuel pump is replaced, it is recommended to replace the fuel pump wiring harness and the screem. The wiring harness and screen usually does not come with the fuel pump and must be purchased separately.
#3363 of 3676 Popping noise in front end
May 08, 2009 (4:50 am)
My 99 2dr 4wd Jimmy makes a popping noise in the the front. It is happening more and more often. It gets much worse during wet conditions. I replaced the ball joints on both the driver and passenger side wheels within the past year. I put new brakes and rotors on less than 6 months ago. I cannot figure out what keeps making the noise. Can anyone give me any ideas?