Last post on May 10, 2013 at 1:58 PM
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Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV
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#330 of 3674 Chevy Blazer 1999 LS 4x4 (push button for 4x4 doesn't)
Jan 15, 2002 (10:04 pm)
I have had my 99 Blazer for two years and the push buttons to change from (2HI) to (4HI) or (4LO) or (auto4WD).(4HI) only blinks and the light never stays solid --but it seems to be in (4HI)or (4LO) but it just keeps blinking(they will blink for as long as I pushed (4HI)or (4LO)-- until I push (2HI)again- and I'm back in (2HI). No other things wrong just the blinking for (4HI) or (4LO)when pushed.When I push the (auto4WD) button it will blink for a while then just go back to (2HI)by itself. They stop blinking when I push (2HI) and its solid and I'm in (2HI)..
Any comments would be appreciated.
#331 of 3674 Coolant smell
Jan 17, 2002 (5:14 pm)
Thanks for the feedback. I have since confirmed that the heater core is leaking and have an appointment to have it replaced. The best price I could find was $420. They all say it is a long and difficult procedure because the dash has to be removed. I have talked to several mechanics who say the problem is the GM dexcool. After surfing the net looking for dexcool I tend to agree there are some issues here. I complained to my GMC dealer, but he could only provide sympathy. I have a suggestion for everyone with GM vehicles about 96 and later: don't wait for 5 years to flush the cooling system. I suggest 2-3.
#332 of 3674 push button lights
Jan 18, 2002 (4:29 pm)
As I emailed to tgregory3, his encoder needs to be replaced
#333 of 3674 Disc Brakes
Jan 21, 2002 (11:52 pm)
Hello all. I've got 2 '98 Blazers, 4x4 LS and LT. I pull a 4500lb boat w/trailer. both trucks have just about 70K miles. I am just changing the brake pads for the first time since owning it. problem i'm having is that i can't take off the rear brake rotor. the brake rotor has a score and i'd like to have it resurfaced at autozone. i've got 4 wheel disc brakes. the rear brake rotor is the drum type. i just can't pull it off like the ones in the front. i'm thinking maybe the parking brake is holding it. i tried tapping it with a mallet lightly but it's the same thing. is there something i'missed? calipers are already off the hub. anyone have done this before? any input on this matter is greatly appreciated. thanks.
Jan 22, 2002 (7:12 pm)
Since you have 70K miles on the vehicle and this is the first time you are attempting to remove the rear rotors, I suspect your primary problem is adhesion between the rotor and axle flange mating areas. Debris and rust will create a seal between the mating surfaces. I suggest you apply a bead of penetrating oil to the center hub area of the rotor where it contacts the axle flange. Careful tapping of the area with a small hammer to create a vibration wave should dislodge the adhesion (no heavy pounding; the vibration not brute force is the key - the rotor metal is brittle at certain points). Slowly turn the rotor as you pull it from the axle flange. This should also help to break the bond between the rotor and the flange. So that nothing is overlooked, I assume you have removed the any sheet metal retainers on the wheel lugs. These are installed at the factory and must be clipped off before you can remove the rotor. Also, I assume the parking brake is fully disengaged. Since you use your vehicle for towing, I would be extra careful to be sure the score in your rotor can be removed by the brake lathe without cutting off an excessive amount of the rotor width. While there is a minimum width specification, I would not want to get to that point and rely on it for demanding brake service. As a point of precaution, do not attempt to pry the rotor from the flange. It can damage the rotor beyond repair. Good luck!
#335 of 3674 thanks....
Jan 23, 2002 (7:19 pm)
thanks for the detailed input. i will try doing that tonight. hopefully i'll succeed. i'll use WD-40 since i've got that in the garage. what you're saying makes sense because i can rattle the rotor in and out by about 8th of an inch. it seems like something is holding it from just sliding out. i'll use a hammer instead of a mallet this time to create a vibration. any idea what would be my other option if the rotor still won't budge? thanks again!
#336 of 3674 drum removal
Jan 23, 2002 (7:31 pm)
Since you can move the drum about an 1/8 then it is a rim of corrosion holding it on.
For drum brakes there is an adjuster that keeps the shoes out near the surface of the drum to compensate for wear of the brake shoe. There usually is a small oval cut out behind the brake housing that has a rubber plug in it. A special bent sdcrew driver type tool is used to back the adjuster off which brings the shoes in toward the axle and then the drum will slide off.
#337 of 3674 Check those lug clips,
Jan 24, 2002 (5:59 am)
Like CLIFFWILLSON said those lug clips are put on at the factory as an assembly aid and need to be cut off before you can get the rotor off. The design on those rear disk brakes leaves a lot to be desired...The drum portion is nothing like normal drum brakes.
The parking brake caliper is only a partial ring of very thin brake material and your parking brake mechanism only bends it out at the end of the "c"-shape. If it has ever been accidentally left engaged and you drove off (which is easy to do because they don't grab very well) they are toast...literally...and will need to be replaced.
Mine were replaced under warranty, My parking brakes did not work when I picked up the vehicle so I took it to Chev...they were clearly (visibly) overheated and did not function at all. Someone probably didn't realize they were on during one of the first test drives and there they went.
The Chev mechanic told me that the retract mechanism had therefore locked up (overheated in the extended position) and therefore were locked into a groove in that mini-hub...whole rotor assembly had to be replaced...under warranty luckily. If that is the case for you, you may want to check with Chev for any hints how to get the rotor off, There is no opening on the back side to mechanically retract that parking brake caliper..like I said ....design leaves ALOT to be desired.
Possibly may be so expensive you may just have to replace the pads and go with it as is, next time it is up for replacement then replace the whole thing, frequently the rotor cannot be resurfaced twice anyway.
Jan 27, 2002 (5:56 pm)
Has anyone had to replace fuse to turning signals
for 97 Chevy Blazer. Was told it was under the dash. Almost tore the car apart looking for it. Will appreciate any advice to the location.
Jan 28, 2002 (5:14 am)
I have a 99' Blazer, the fuses are on the left side of the dash, between the dash and the door. There is a little door there, you turn knob clock wise and it will open. There is a 2nd. fuse box under the hood, driver side halve way between the front and the windsheld. Good luck, hope I helped.