Last post on May 10, 2013 at 1:58 PM
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Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV
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Dec 28, 2001 (6:02 pm)
I have a 1995 Chevrolet Blazer LT 4x4 4-Door. I'm driving last night and I notice the oil pressure gauge is reading only 40PSI. Thats funny I think to myself, its normally at 60-70PSI . Well then the oil pressure drops to 0, then back up to 40, and then 0 again. By the time it was hitting 0 for the second time I had already turned on to a side street & was just shutting her down. I pull off to the side, pop the hood, & get out to have a look. Well by the time I get out I notice about 3quarts of oil already on the ground. I pop the hood and I notice that my engine compartment (which was spotless previously) is covered in new engine oil. I look down and begin to see the oil drip out even more, starting to get onto my shoes. Well I hop back in and call Chevrolet Roadside Assistance. I get a tow, but now it's stuck at a dealership, I think it is the dreaded oil cooling lines.
Anyone have any advice for me?
#319 of 3674 Creak noise from drivers door
Dec 29, 2001 (11:27 am)
I had a bad creak from the driver's door. The creak started after the dealer replaced the window regulator. After trying many things, I found it to be the bolts where it connects the front of the window frame in the front of the door. I put paper and plastic washers between the connection, but the creaking started back up in about 2 weeks time. I ended up giving the front window frame guide a very slight bend with a large pliers. It has been quite for over a month now.
#320 of 3674 Creak noise from drivers door
Jan 05, 2002 (9:32 am)
My door is still has a creak. Where did you bend the front window guide? Did you bend the guide or the bracket? I have taken the front door panel off twice now for this noise. Do you have to remove the panel to do this?
#321 of 3674 Sticky Accelerator?
Jan 08, 2002 (3:10 pm)
anyone have an issue with a sticky accelerator? for the past few weeks it's been getting pretty bad, lurching out of parking spaces is getting a little dangerous!
99 with 44K miles....
Jan 08, 2002 (5:05 pm)
sounds like its the throttle body. Did you have it cleaned around 30K? Might be a good idea.
Jan 09, 2002 (7:41 am)
The Service Manual for the 4.3 liter V6 expects a scan tool idle reading of 650 RPM. This desired reading is with the engine at operating temperature, engine idling in closed loop (full computer control), closed throttle, accessories off, and transmission in park or neutral. The VCM (Vehicle Control Module) primarily maintains the engine's idle speed through postioning commands to the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. A faulty IAC valve or a build-up of deposits on the valve's pintle can degrade idle performance. Since crankcase ventilation passes oil vapor into the intake air, the IAC valve and throttle plate are prone to the accumulation of deposits.
#324 of 3674 Oil Cooler Lines
Jan 10, 2002 (2:32 pm)
To all of you thinking about purchasing a Chevrolet Blazer of the 1999 vintage: D O N' T...
I have owned mine since February of 2000. Below list shows the problems that I have encountered so far:
1. left front pinion seal: replaced twice
2. fuel sending unit-warranty repair
3. fuel gauge-warranty repair
4. oil cooler lines: replaced both lines twice
warranty repair first time,
second time out of pocket $$
5. intake manifold gasket replaced-out of warranty
6. dead battery: warranty repair
This is all that I can remember at this time. I am sure that if I think hard enough that I will remember additional things that I have had to get fixed. The last repair occurred last week when I needed the oil cooler lines replaced for the second time within 18 months. There is a 12 month warranty on GM parts so I was forced to pay for the second round of replacement lines. This is the BIGGEST piece of American made junk ever created. Please stay away from this vehicle if you are thinking about a purchase. My personal opinion is that if you haven't had any of these problems so far; you will at some time in the future.
#325 of 3674 Coolant smell
Jan 10, 2002 (5:48 pm)
I had a problem with my 96 Jimmy not delivering enough heat in the cabin. I think the problem started a couple of years ago. After changing the thermostat to no avail I decided it was time for the 5 year change of dexcool. I flushed out the cooling system and even took the heater hoses off the engine and flushed the heater core with a garden hose. I noticed a lot of slime and crud come out of the heater core. Now the heat works wonderful, but I notice a coolant smell anytime the heater is on. I can't find a leak anywhere. Is it possible that flushing the heater core "unplugged" some pin holes and now it is leaking enough to smell, but not enough to see on the floor? Is there any way to leak test the core without taking the dash apart?
#326 of 3674 bieraugel
Jan 10, 2002 (6:06 pm)
Why did you need to have the intake manifold gasket replaced? Was it leaking coolant?
#327 of 3674 MRCHW, about the sticky accelerator,
Jan 13, 2002 (7:40 am)
I have a 99 S10 ZR2 P/U that also HAD a sticky accelerator..
Look at the accelerator cable connector at the throttle body on top of the motor, you will see the lever that you can move with your finger as if you wanted to rev the motor while standing by the engine. It seems to have a magnetic connection where that lever touches the mechanical stop, that magnetic connection made the lever "sticky". I put a piece of electrical tape over the stop so it was no longer a metal/metal contact, now I don't sometimes "jump" out of a parking place like it used to want to do
Hope this helps