Last post on Jul 16, 2013 at 4:58 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#3135 of 3676 Re: 1995 Chevy Blazer 4WD not engaging [chevyride22]
Feb 06, 2008 (6:59 am)
hi you are right it does go in the back of the motor on the left as you look at the motor.get up on the motor and you will see it.also get someone to engage the 4x4 while you put your hand under the battery tray and see if the pump does work you will feel it moving if it does the transfercase motor is not working i had to change mine
#3136 of 3676 Re: Oil cooler lines [boat10]
Feb 06, 2008 (7:11 am)
get them made at a hydraulic shop like i did they will never burst again it cost me about 250 dollars but its worth it never had a problem again.
#3137 of 3676 Bad Gas Mileage
Feb 06, 2008 (6:21 pm)
I have a 79 K5 with a 9 in lift with 37 in tires. I get less then 8 miles to the gallon and a friend of mine has the same exact truck and lift and he gets 15 miles to the gallon. What is my problem? I have a new throttle body,carburator, and air filter. Just changed all the fluids but nothing seems to help it.
#3138 of 3676 Re: Question about 2001 Jimmy gas mileage... [newmanfan]
Feb 06, 2008 (6:36 pm)
You might want to get your gears checked out. The only thing i can think of is since you put a lift and a little bigger tires it can slowly wear the gears down so you might want to get the gears checked out see if the pumpkin has any metal shavings from the ring and pinon. As for the heat check the connection between the wire and the fan. Mine use to do that until i got a new wire. And if its not that then its the fan the reason it work when your driving is cause the fan moves when you drive when you don't drive it stays still. Does it stop working when your at a light or stopped.
#3139 of 3676 Re: 1995 Chevy Blazer 4WD not engaging [Mr_Shiftright]
Feb 07, 2008 (1:31 pm)
I hooked up a vacuum source to the actuator under the battery and when I put it in 4wd the front wheels engaged like they should. That tells me that the transfer case and switching are o.k. I have traced the vacuum hoses but cannot see any breaks or cracks. Do you know where the original source for the vacuum connects? The only other part that I see that has a vacuum hose connected to it (other than the transfer case switch with 3 vacuum hoses and the actuator under the battery) is a switch mounted on the passenger's side fender beside the battery. This same switch also has an electrical connector to it (vacuum hose at one end, electrical connector at the other). Would you know what know what this switch is used for? Thanks.
#3140 of 3676 GM Remote Keyless Entry Installation
Feb 08, 2008 (8:39 am)
I am posting this for anyone who wants to add RKE to a late model Blazer/Jimmy.
If your glove box RPO label does not show AU0 on the codes, you do not have remote keyless entry from the factory.
Now, the good news.
Used RKE receivers are available (cheap) online. I got mine on eBay from s10warehouse for $15 including shipping. It installs on the backside of the panel above the parking brake pedal, and the wiring harness is already there. Takes about 5 minutes to install.
Now for the fun part. You MUST have a GM dealer enable the module. My dealer had never done this before, so I figured it would be good to share the knowlege.
The technician will need to download the BCM (body control module) software into a TechII programmer and transfer the information to the shop computer. Then, you scroll down through the list of details till you get to "Equipped with RKE" or something like that. It will show "NO". The tech just toggled this to "YES", saved the data back into the Tech II, and reloaded the program into the vehicle BCM.
That's it, now the vehicle knows the module is there. I wanted to be as specific as I could on this because dealers generally have never heard of this procedure. They regularly re-program key fobs, or add key fobs, but telling a car that was built without RKE that it now has it, is just not something they often do, if ever.
FOB programming varies somewhat from model to model, but if you check http://www.programyourremote.com/
you will probably find what you need. There is a company advertising on their website called ChipKeys.com. I bought my key fobs from them, the prices were the cheapest I found, and delivery was quick, and new product.
I don't work for any of the companies mentioned here, nor do I know anybody at the companies. But I had really good support and delivery and thought I would share the experience.
#3141 of 3676 Re: Spark Plugs [murphy51]
Feb 08, 2008 (1:09 pm)
I have a 96 LS... 182K miles... I have changed the spark plugs twice... I had no trouble changing this plug... I used a box end wrench. I will take a pic and post sometime soon.
Feb 08, 2008 (9:00 pm)
does anyone know where the heater core is located on a 96 jimmy and how to access it. i have half the dash apart and starting under the hood? help
#3143 of 3676 Re: Spark Plugs [quantumtouchfl]
Feb 08, 2008 (9:01 pm)
sir do you know anything about the heater core? mine is leaking into the passanger side floor boards
#3144 of 3676 emissions
Feb 09, 2008 (12:52 pm)
I have a 1989 S10blazer The 4.2 V6 fi 175,456 mileas. Went for emissions test and Air inj sys, egr,pcv,fuel inlet restrictor, Cat Coverter,Evap control sys, gas cap integrity all passed, tail pipe #'s
Idle limit 1.20 reading 7.22 fail
2500 rpm 1.20 reading 6.86 fail
Idle 220 ...382. fail
2500 rpm 220... 267 fail
Seems there is to much emisions coming out of tail pipe all other things are ok. I do smell fuel when it starts though, and iot runs rough sometimes. I always kept up on tunups. also seems to eat more gas.. Need to know what parts would effect emissions that would cause high CO%. need to know something before having it fixed. thanks
thanks for any help/