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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

3453 messages,  Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 7:38 PM

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#31 of 3453 by ryanbab Dec 26, 2000 (8:57 pm)
The 95 and 96 pushbutton 4x4 system is different than a 2000's 4x4 system. The 2000's system was released in 1999 its called autotrac. The pre 1999 version is instatrac. THe S-10's still use the old system but the blazers, tahoes, and silverados have switched over to auottrac. Its a great system the auto button is really good in rainy weather.   Did they ever say anything about a solenoid? Ive heard of those going bad   Ryan
#32 of 3453 Problems with 4wd engaging... always by opicd Dec 27, 2000 (9:15 am)
I'll add my 2 cents here ... my 4wd hasn't been reliable for 2 years. Two transfer case repairs (one complete overhaul), two automatic trans rebuilds, numerous "minor" problems like wipers stop in downpour then go on when not turned on.   Bought a new 97 blazer in 11/97 thought it was deal at $19k but have put $4k in repairs. Today the dealer said the fluid leak is caused by bad water pump and needs $600 in repairs.   Anyone want to top this story?   PS Chevy customer support said all this stuff happens all the time and ....don't expect any assistance from them.
#33 of 3453 Blazer EGR valve replacement? by smsmith2 Dec 28, 2000 (8:04 pm)
I have a '93 Blazer 4x4 with the 4.3L vortec engine, bought used in 1997 with 77k miles. I have been pretty happy with it and now have 113k on it, but there have been some repairs needed. Most recently while visiting Northern Virginia it began to run rough and seemed like it was going to stall, then the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. Facing a 7 hour drive home, I took it to a local shop to get checked out. After a $70 diagnostic, they told me I needed a new EGR valve. Ok, but they charged me $362 for the part alone! The total repair came to over $600. Does this seem right? I went to an Advance Auto here at home (Rochester, NY) and was qutoed a price of $43 for a new EGR valve, and after looking at a manual, it seems a repair I could have done myself. I am thinking I was taken advantage of because I was from out of town and needed the repair to drive home. Also, I was recently told I need oil cooler lines repaired: $200 to repair the seals; $300 if they need to replace the lines. This seems high to me as well. Anybody have info on these repair prices? Thanks!
#34 of 3453 Blazer EGR by vlkohanski Dec 29, 2000 (6:34 am)
Your first question depends on which type of EGR you have. I'm not familiar with that one first hand, but there are two types of valves used on some of the Blazer in the early 90's. One is the regular cheaper one and the other is much more expensive (retail is around what you were quoted). Supposedly it's a much better valve whereas the other has more of a tendency to crap out more frequently. So, don't beat up on yourself too much unless you've verified that the parts store quoted you the right one. If they charged you $300 for the regular one, yes, you got taken, and on the labor, too. The more expensive one is also more labor-intensive to change out. As for the cooler lines (and should usually be the case with expensive repairs), you should get a second opinion. Some places will do a good repair for less and still get the basic repair accomplished without trying to "restore" an old truck.
#35 of 3453 What to buy and seeking advice by sasquatch_2000 Dec 29, 2000 (2:34 pm)
Looking at a Pewter 98 LS 4 Door with 40,000 miles on it. Dealer price $18,000. What is a good price to hit him with? What problems should I look for? Do I gain anything appreciable other than cosmetics by going to a '99? This one has the 5 spoke wheels with worn 235/70R15 tires. What are the biggest tires I can put on these? Can I get 255/75R15? How about 30X9.50 or 31X10.50 tires? Do I need a lift kit to mount these? Are lift kits available? I plan on doing some exploring this winter and summer, and want some good clearance. Also, anyone have experience with aftermarket header/exhaust/chip for power/mileage improvements? Thanks in advance.
#36 of 3453 Need suspension advice by tliller Dec 30, 2000 (9:48 am)
Replies to this message: 92blazer (Apr 05, 2005 8:46 am)
#37 of 3453 Need suspension advice by tliller Dec 30, 2000 (9:54 am)
Just recently bought a 2000 Blazer LS "program" car with 14,000 miles. The dealer had 5 and this was the best. I like the vehicle so far, but I don't like the "feel" of the rear suspension. It has the standard suspension and it feels like the rear end would like to skip a bit on rough surfaces, although I don't think it really has. I don't really do any off road driving other than some dirt roads when I go fishing. Any advice on a good replacement shock that would tighten up the feel on the rear end? The front seems pretty solid. Any problem, given the mileage, on replacing the rear shocks without doing anything to the front suspension?
#38 of 3453 To Sasquatch 2000 by tliller Dec 30, 2000 (2:39 pm)
I recently bought a 2000 LS (same color as yours) with 14,050 miles for $20,900. Vehicle is like new (as it should be). If you go to large Chevy Dealers they will likely have some 2000 "program" vehicles (come out of rental or loaner fleet) for really good prices compared to new, 200l vehicles. Usually discounted $8 - $10,000 from original sticker price. I've seen some 2000 program Blazers as low as $17,900.
#39 of 3453 1996 Blazer Problems/ fwd engageing by monza68 Jan 01, 2001 (11:08 am)
My 1996 Blazer has just recently started giving me problems with the fad engaging. after 4 trips to the dealer service department they finally got it repaired. My blazer only has 18,000 miles on it and recently have had more problems. air conditioning went out, alternator just went out, have replaced front brake pads 3 times. HOWEVER!, I contacted Chevrolet customer service and because of the low miles on this vehicle, they have agreed to take care of these problems for me.

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