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#2459 of 3676 Was I taken advantage of??????
Jul 11, 2006 (5:50 am)
I bought a 1995 chevy blazer, 4.3 liter, V6 vortec in July 2004. It had 105,000 miles on it when I bought it. Now it has close to 150,000. In October 2004 I had to replace the fuel injectors and both front shocks. In October 2005 I had an oil change, new plugs and wires installed. About 2 months ago the blazer started missing, stuttering or hestitating so I took it my mechanic. He said the only problem he could find was that the transmission needed cleaned. He said the trany was in good shape. Ran good for awhile. Last week I took it to Grease Monkey for an oil change. They came out and said they could not touch it because the oil cooler assembly was not attached to the engine block and it was ready to fall off plus someone had put on the wrong oil filter and oil was leaking everywhere so I took the car back to my mechanic he said he would fix the oil cooler assembly, do a complete oil change, but he also needed to change the distributor cap,rotator button,new plugs and wires. He called me and said when he took it for a test drive the fuel pump went on so he repaired that as well plus I needed a new muffler and tailpipe. This came to a total $441.00 The blazer runs like brand new now! My question is since I just had new plugs and wires less than a year ago, did he pull one over on me? I know nothing about cars so I have no clue what really needed to be done besides the muffler and tail pipe. It isn't missing anymore and no more smell of gas fumes.
#2460 of 3676 Re: Was I taken advantage of?????? [bkgray38]
Jul 11, 2006 (7:55 am)
I got alittle lost in there on the "fuel pump went on" because thats in the tank so maybe the fuel filter was replaced under the frame rail. If oil sprayed all over the engine also then it could have coated the dist and wires etc so arching and replacement may have been the best solution. Price was good for all that work. When the remote oil cooler lines go (crimps on hoses) you are lucky that all oil did not blow out and destroy the engine.
#2461 of 3676 Front End Popping during tight turns
Jul 11, 2006 (4:11 pm)
I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy. It has always made a popping sound when I turn to the left to tightly. Recently, It has gotten worse. I was told that the front coil spring is out of position and the front end needed to be repaired. The repair will include the front end, Idler Arm, and the Pitman Arm at a cost of about $800. Has anyone had this problem - do you have any other suggestions?
#2462 of 3676 does not want to start sometimes
Jul 11, 2006 (9:28 pm)
hi wanted to know if anyone can help me on this i have 95 gmc jimmy 4dr 4x4 4.3 vortec . does not want to start sometimes. seems its not getting fuel . already put in fuel injectors and fuel pump . but its makeing a lound umm noise seems lounder then should be . could it be the pump again . can anyone help me on this
#2463 of 3676 Re: Front End Popping during tight turns [whitgmc2001]
Jul 12, 2006 (2:44 am)
2wd or 4wd makes a big difference but have to assume 2wd if a coil spring cause 4wd have torsion bars. Coils have rubber insulators between them and the frame. So, depending on mileage etc could be the center steering link assembly (common) or idler, tie rod ends, hubs, or ball joints - a shop should be able to tell by inspecting and doing some pull/push on the tire/wheel at 12/6 oclock and 3-/9 oclock position, as well as listening to the hubs as they rotate. Now if actually a 4wd its the lower ball joints as #1 fault area and popping.
Grease all front end fittings and see if it goes away or lessens - any pulling or drift in steering or during braking is also a clue. Also if caliper slide colts are not free and greased they can bind and shift/pop. Have to jack it up and inspect so if you don't trust one shop get a second estimate from a front end alignment shop (sorry but some tire giants may be alittle quick to make work/$$).
#2464 of 3676 Re: does not want to start sometimes [james2006]
Jul 12, 2006 (2:49 am)
CPI injection under the upper intake is a known problem leakage area and theres a CPI and nut kit (actually the 2 fuel lines) that fix internal leaking and if you smell fuel thats it so search on this and see the many posts. If you test the fuel pressure at the rail its 60 psi key on engine off and 54 running. If when off the pressure drops quickly its the CPI/nut. Pump could be running as fuel dumps in manifold so check this out so don't trash the cat convertor (excess fuel in it) or dilute the oil with gas.
#2465 of 3676 Re: does not want to start sometimes [repairdog]
Jul 12, 2006 (6:52 pm)
ok i was told that the timing chain could be causeing my truck not to run right is that true i am doing a fuel pressure test on thursday morning and putting a new fuel filter. then go from there .
#2466 of 3676 Re: Starting issue [repairdog]
Jul 13, 2006 (11:08 am)
Good point on the battery and alternator. However I thought the same thing and replaced both already thinking the problem would be solved. NOPE.
Did I mention that I got his one used and the folks that had it previously put a battery in it that was bigger than the tray! I liked to never got it out and when I did I almost dropped it. Luckily it landed on the plastic shroud cover (yeah right). The corner of the battery punched a hole in it! CRAP!!! Oh well. I did notice with the battery out the tray had acid on it (cleaned it up with baking soda and some water) and there was some caustic damage to a cover for the hot lead from the battery to where ever it went. If you want I could send you a picture and let me know what you think. My wife seems to think it might be the ignition cylinder. Not sure. . .
#2467 of 3676 My 1997 jimmy not firing
Jul 13, 2006 (11:32 am)
I have recently replaced coil pack and fuel injectors. Now it wont start. it is firing through the coil but not the plug wires.
#2468 of 3676 Re: Starting issue [jpmccr]
Jul 13, 2006 (11:44 am)
Reread the original and now with the acid point did you pull the battery and tray out and look at the juction under it - you have to look at it and the cable - that cable is multi piece and runs to the starter so pull that out and look and use an ohm meter and flex the cables around and see it reading change - if so replace. Also easier is make sure those side terminals to the cable are clean by pulling the insulator back - it just slides back.
Wife could be right but unless she has a really haevy key chain full of junk doubt it. When this happens is the shifter in park for sure all the way cause these do have an adjustment on the trans and if off slightly won't start so next time it won't start with the key on (engine off) and your foot on the brake move the shifter to N and then back to P and see if that allows it to start.