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#2422 of 3676 Fuel Pump Replacement
Jun 27, 2006 (7:58 pm)
We have a 1999 Chevy S-10 Blazer which we have now replaced the fuel pump 10 times in the last 2 years, we've also replaced the CPS, TPS, Rotor, Cap, Plugs, Wires, Ignition Module, Fuel Pump Relay, Fuel Pressure Regulator & electrical connections on fuel pump. We've also replaced the fuel filter after every pump change. The last pump lasted only 3 days. We have checked for recalls and there are none for the 1999 S-10 Blazer fuel pumps. Does anyone have any further suggestions on what to try next? We are desperate. We appreciate any advise we can get. Thanks!!
#2423 of 3676 Re: Fuel Pump Replacement [titanic1912]
Jun 28, 2006 (2:23 am)
Are you buying the Delco pump or aftermarket and who is putting these in? Is the return line crushed or blocked - by doing a pressure test at the rail the specs are 54-64psi for a new pump and if the line is a problem its goes up to over 70psi. Voltage at the pump correct?
#2424 of 3676 Re: Wheel Hubs [the_jimmy]
Jun 28, 2006 (2:53 am)
Hubs contain the wheel bearings and the front CV axles are splinned into them - they grind/grate when failing and are not the problem. Sounds normal to me.
All power goes thru the transfer case even the rear wheel only or 2HI, The case engages 4LO gear by an encoder motor. For 4HI (and all 4wd modes) an axle coupler on the pass side engages or locks the axle (look under and see the cable and sensor on the front diff). The front diff is open or has no posi unit so only the wheel with the least traction drives - same with rear unless you have the G80 option (look in glove box). If you have the 4th button "Auto" then the trasfer case has a posi type clutch pack unit in it that allows driving on pavement in any condition - it can slip or allow diff front rear wheel speeds. Front drive shaft always turns too for all 98up models for shift on the fly. Try a hard start on a loose dirt road and have someone watch the front tires for spin - one should at least.
#2425 of 3676 Re: Rough or miss at idle [abc246]
Jun 28, 2006 (10:53 am)
I was reading posts on rough idle on GM products. What is a "CPI" unit and how does the "pop valve in the CPI injector work"? I have replaced the IAC, EGR, MAP, throttle position sensor, fuel pressure regular, and 02 sensor as well as the distributer, cap, coil, wires, and Throttle body. I still have a rough idle (not always) and it gets worse the longer it idles (93 GMC p/u with a 5.7 liter, 350 CID engine). Off idle and under a load it runs great! Vacuume at idle is fine. The fuel injectors (2 each) and the enginer computer are all I can think of that are left in the system. It does idle better with the airconditioner on for some reason. No codes. It feels like a lean idle condition from a carburator system (lean roll). If the engine were not a new GM engine (2000 miles on it) and I had not had the problem on my last engine I can think of lots of things that could cause this.
#2426 of 3676 00 Blazer stalling problem
Jun 28, 2006 (1:47 pm)
First off I am glad I found this forum. There is a lot of great information here.
Now to my problem. Long story short, 2000 blazer stalled out and would not restart. Engine really struggled to run at all before it died. Then would not start. Got it home and had it running by putting gas in the intake. Then would start on its own and ideal but dies when in drive and the gas pedal is touched. I changed the fuel filter, checked the fuel pressure, changed the fuel pressure regulator, MAP and TPS. All of this with no service engine light. After all that it popped on. Got a reader and it stated intermittent crankshaft sensor P0339. So I switched the sensor. No luck. I am going to check the voltage into the sensor to check the wiring but other than that I have no idea. Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
#2427 of 3676 Re: Rough or miss at idle [mstaffor]
Jun 28, 2006 (4:04 pm)
All those are s-10 blazers with 4.3L motors.
You have the 5.7 with throttle body injectors I believe - correct (looks like a carb or throttle body with the small injectors sitting on top of it with wires feeding it)so would guess its the idle air control valve on the throttle body but been awhile since working on these. AC on ups the rpms thats why it helps. Check the online auto store on this part.
#2428 of 3676 Re: 00 Blazer stalling problem [bivenser]
Jun 28, 2006 (4:16 pm)
Unplug the connector to the MAF sensor in the intake above the air filter (larger connector of 2 - other is air temp sensor) and see if it runs better. If so clean or replace the MAF. If this is not it reply and I'll look up the crank sensor relearn procedure that may help.
#2429 of 3676 Re: Fuel Pump Replacement [repairdog]
Jun 28, 2006 (4:34 pm)
Thank you for your quick reply. Originally we replaced the GM pump with a Delphi which we have now put in 7 of them, then we switched to Carter & have put in 3 of them. Carter is the pump on it currently. The return line is not crushed or blocked, voltage at the pump is correct. We had an ASE certified mechanic who has worked for a GM dealer check it the first few times, then we had a local ASE mechanic change it the last 2 times. PSI is always in the proper range. We have even thought about contacting GM direct and sending the receipts of everything we've replaced to them. If you can be of any further assistance we would greatly appreciate it. Thanks once again.
#2430 of 3676 Re: 95 Blazer: brakes locking up [repairdog]
Jun 28, 2006 (5:46 pm)
Had a similar problem with mine after installing a new rt front hub/bearing. Had to do this 3 times. The first caused a knocking sound when turning. Replaced that with a second..the knocking went away but when applying the brakes over 40 mph the ABS would activate and pull it dead left (big time problem almost wrecked it). Hooked it up to a code reader and drove it. All wheels read fine till it got over 40 mph then the rt front would drop to like 20 mph. This made it think it was in a skid anytime the brakes were applied. Turns out that hub was bad too (theres like 200+ pins in it that the abs reads and some were damaged). Went with a new hub manufacturer and all has been well since. Hope that helps!
#2431 of 3676 Noise in front end
Jun 28, 2006 (5:57 pm)
Have a 96 Jimmy with a strange grinding/whirring sound from the passenger side that comes and goes (sounds like a piece of plastic rubbing on a tire). The sound will come from out of nowhere and follows the speed of the truck in intensity. Usually if I pull off on the side of the road it stops and doesnt come back. Shifting to neutral does nothing but shifting to 4wd silences it but then I get a steady banging sound in the same spot in the front (sounds like driving on a road with expansion joints). It may happen once a week or once every two to three months not for any particular reason. The hub/bearing up there is new and the problem has happened before and after its replacement. It doesnt seem to come from the transfer case so I was thinking the differential or cv axles. Any help would be greatly appreciated.