Last post on Jul 16, 2013 at 4:58 PM
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#1378 of 3676 1997 Chevy Blazer 4.3 4wd/AC broken alternator mount
Jun 30, 2005 (5:48 pm)
I replaced an alternator on my father in law's 97 blazer 4.3, 4wd, a/c tonight and in removing the alternator with a prybar, i reefed on the passenger side of the alternator a little to break it loose from the mount and pop, the front "dog ear" popped off with the mount bushing... I've got it back in and tightened down as best as I could, but I want/should replace the dog ear. It looks like it bolts onto the front of the block. Anyone knows what it's called ?? In the morning I'm gonna start calling jy's and want to at least sound knowledgeable. TIA to all
#1379 of 3676 Re: replacing fuel pump on 96 Blazer [willi4]
Jul 01, 2005 (6:23 am)
GM S-Series Pick-ups and SUV's 1994-1999 Repair Guide
Except With Shield Package
1. Properly drain the fuel tank, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If not done already, raise and support the rear of the truck safely using jackstands.
3. If equipped on late-model vehicles, loosen and remove the tank plastic shield.
4. Loosen the retaining clamp and disconnect the tank filler hose from the tank neck.
If fuel and vapor hoses or pump/sending unit wiring can be accessed at this time, they may be tagged and disconnected. If not, wait for the retaining straps to be loosened and lower the tank slightly for access.
5. Tag and disconnect and accessible wiring or hoses from the top of the fuel tank.
6. Have and assistant support the fuel tank, then remove the fuel tank-to-vehicle straps and, if equipped, the isolation strips. If no assistant is available, position a floor jack to support the tank while the straps are removed.
7. Lower the tank slightly, then remove the sending unit or sending unit/pump wires, hoses and ground strap. Be sure to label all connections to ease installation.
8. Carefully lower the fuel tank from the vehicle and store in a safe place.
9. Raise the tank partially into position in the vehicle. If you are working without an assistant, you may wish to loosely install one of the retaining straps and use a floor jack to support the tank at an angle so there is access to the sending unit or sending unit/pump assembly (as applicable).
10. Connect the fuel/vapor hoses and wiring to the top of the fuel tank, as tagged during removal.
11. Carefully raise the fuel tank so it is fully into position and loosely secure the retaining straps. Make sure the wires and hoses are not pinched or damaged when raising the tank. Also, be sure that the isolation strips (if used) are positioned between the retaining straps and the fuel tank.
12. It may be easier to connect the fuel filler hose to the tank neck at this time. If desired, connect the hose and secure the clamp.
13. Tighten the fuel tank retaining strap fasteners to specification. Tighten the strap nuts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
14. If not done earlier, connect the tank filler hose to the tank neck and secure using the clamp.
15. If equipped, install and secure the tank plastic shield.
16. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the rear of the truck.
17. Refill the fuel tank and install the filler cap, then check for leaks.
18. Connect the negative battery cable.
Equipped With Shield Package
1. Properly drain the fuel tank, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the rear of the truck safely using jackstands.
3. Remove the shield forward support and bracket.
4. While supporting the shield and tank assembly with the help of both an assistant and a floor jack, remove the remaining bolts holding the assembly to the frame, then lower it sufficiently for access to the hoses and wires.
5. Tag and disengage the hoses and wires from the sending unit assembly.
6. Carefully lower the fuel tank and shield from the vehicle, then if necessary for service or replacement, separate the tank from the shield.
7. If separated, install the tank to the shield.
8. Carefully raise the tank and shield assembly partially into position with the help of an assistant and a floor jack.
9. Connect the wiring and hoses to the sending unit assembly, as tagged during removal.
10. Raise the tank and shield assembly fully into position, then secure to the frame using the lower retaining bolts.
11. Install the shield forward support bracket.
12. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the rear of the truck.
13. Refill the fuel tank and install the filler cap, then check for leaks.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
#1380 of 3676 Re: replacing fuel pump on 96 Blazer [alcan]
Jul 01, 2005 (2:55 pm)
thanks for the info. I appreciate it. Should make the job go easier.
#1381 of 3676 Re: Changing Brakes on a 2001 Blazer SLT [bruiser919]
Jul 03, 2005 (5:10 am)
That's so true, there are so many other things we could be spending money on. I changed the brakes on my Blazer twice in 7 years and the second time I changed the rotors. I had to buy a few tools I didn't realize I needed until it tore apart but the whole job took just over $100.00 instead of $450.00. Some of the bolts were hard to get loosened but I called a small repair shop and asked them if there was something I could do to get it off. They told me apply heat so I bought a tourch and held it on the bolt for a couple of minutes and it worked!!! I'm not a strong woman, but there is always a way to get things done.
#1382 of 3676 2001 Blazer rough idle/no codes
Jul 03, 2005 (6:53 am)
My 2001 Blazer idles very rough and sets no codes and doesn't turn on the check engine light. Plugs and wires have been replaced, and the cap/rotor are still good. It has around 60,000 miles. Any ideas??
#1383 of 3676 91 GMC Jimmy running problems
Jul 04, 2005 (10:34 am)
My 1991 Jimmy is having running problems. These are the symptoms, it coughs through the intake when running down the road and I took it to a trusted mechanic. He said it had fuel pressure problems and suggested it was the fuel pump. We changed the fuel pump, filter, and throttle body and vehicle is still having same symptoms. Any suggestions?
Jul 04, 2005 (1:45 pm)
The driver's side seatbelt locks when I pul lit out too quickly and then will not unlock. Sometimes it is 3 or 4 days before it releases. I have had it replaced once. Is it something I am doing? And, once it locks, how do I unlock it? I have a 2004 Trailblazer
#1385 of 3676 Re: thanx [wooddog52]
Jul 05, 2005 (9:15 am)
I had the same problem on a 94 Jeep Cheroke. Drove me crazy for a year. Kept getting worse. Engine would just shut off while driving then turn itself back on. Got so bad that you would just have to sit and wait and keep trying. Tried everything starting from the distributor to the relays to the fuel pump. Turned out to be the TDC (top dead Center) sensor mounted on the bell housing of the transmission. One bolt and it was out and replaced in 15 minutes. $80 for the jeep. Hope this helps in your situation. I'd hate to see another one of us lose their hair.
#1386 of 3676 Re: Removing starter on JIMMY HELP HELP [idrivethechevy]
Jul 05, 2005 (7:39 pm)
Was the starter you replaced the larger one, with the extra 'lobe' on top (gear reduction) or was it a typical starter (just a round cyclinder).
Thanks. The parts store i called said there's 2 kinds.
#1387 of 3676 Re: 1999 Chevrolet Blazer Clicking Turn Signal Noise [madmaxd2001]
Jul 05, 2005 (11:12 pm)
check ur turn signal relay it's inside the cover were ur e_ brake lever release is should be a white box next to the horn relay