Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

3674 messages,  Last post on May 10, 2013 at 1:58 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV

    

Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.

Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153

#125 of 3674 1996 Blazer Radio Problem by lueytlh

Mar 26, 2001 (3:31 pm)

I have a 1996 Chevy Blazer that has a case of the "Mississippi Mud". I've had to completely replace my radiator. My mechanic said he'd never seen anything like it in the 30 years he's worked on cars. Does anyone know what recourse I have with GM or what consumer protection agency to contact about this problem? If GM says, and they do so clearly, that the radiator should NOT be touched for 100,000 miles, they should pay for this repair. My Blazer had 79,000 miles on it when I first began having problems. Your help is appreciated. You can e-mail me : millercommyahoo.com

#126 of 3674 Please help with Blazer noise by abc246

Mar 27, 2001 (9:18 am)

My 1999 4 Dr. 4x4 Blazer has a very annoying rattle that seems to be coming from the chassis. If I hit a small bump like patched pavement with only one front wheel I hear some type of knock or rattle from under the truck. I suspected the front skid plate under the oil pan, but I removed this plate and it is still there. It seems to be worse when it is raining outside. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate the help finding the source.

For the record, the oil cooler line, power steering pump, both lower ball joints, idler arm, belt tensioner, serpentine belt, battery, heater core, radio, radio speaker, door hinge, both rear rotors, CV joint boot, tailgate light switch, have all been replaced under warranty. The truck now has 42k miles and the warranty period is over. Is this now a good truck? Do you think all this junk is going to need replacing in 30k miles again? Do you think these parts were just defective or are they very low quality? (GM should be asking these very same questions!)

For all its bad points (quality) it does have some good points. The acceleration is amazing. According to my Gtech meter, this truck goes from 0 to 60 in 7.83 secs!! It is faster than my friends 2000 Maxima SE with auto, his time was 7.86 secs. The Blazer actually walks away from the Maxima from 0-35 mph and the Maxima catches up from 35-60mph. Braking is excellent (I replaced the pads at 35k miles) with after market pads. Handling is excellent for a SUV (I replaced the front stabilizer bushings with urethane). The highway ride is very good with the stock Bilstien shocks. The engine has a lot of power when towing heavy loads and the transmission does not hunt gears when towing.

Too bad the Quality is very low. The interior has many rattles. The plastic construction is cheap and squeaks. The gears in the differential(s) whine or groan. The offset test results are so bad after seeing the pictures I can't get them out of my mind. The frame actually starts to bend in two in the middle! The Blazer was worst in class, http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/96002.htm#5

If GM is not dumb enough, they then produce a GMC Jimmy commercial promoting the "industrial strength frame" on the Jimmy. They even give the engineer's name on who designed this death traps frame.

Does GM think we are stupid? I guess so. But the real joke is on GM. GMs market share is going down. GM will not be the number automaker in a few years- and I wonder why!

#127 of 3674 grinding sound in new jimmy by hankjk

Apr 01, 2001 (9:46 am)

I have a grinding sound coming from under the hood or front end of my new JIMMY. The truck has 125 miles on it. It seems to only happen when the truck is in gear,if I shift to park or neutral it stops. Any one else have a similar problem or have any ideas as to what it could be? I'm ready to take this truck back already( although I must admit I really like the truck other than this noise)

#128 of 3674 re: grinding noise in new Jimmy... by komatiite

Apr 02, 2001 (6:38 pm)

yes hank, I get that noise in my 2000 Blazer. If it's the same noise, it sounds like a low growling (or grinding) coming from directly behind the firewall. This only happens when the vehicle idles or is moving in lower gears. I've taken it to two different dealerships, and both of them have bullshitted me on the problem -- one of them saying it was the A/C compressor (after I hadn't used A/C in over two months), the other just topped off the power steering fluid. I do, however, believe this to be associated in some way with the power steering fluid pump. See if your noise gets louder as you turn the wheels hard to one direction or the other. Perhaps some air bubbles have formed within the power steering fluid reservoir? My next course of action will be to drain and replace the power steering fluid...I'm finished dealing with lazy car dealer mechanics who are unwilling or unable to constructively solve problems unless the procedures for doing so are handed down in a 'cookbook-style' training circular from the corporate office.

#129 of 3674 re grinding noise in jimmy by hankjk

Apr 02, 2001 (10:54 pm)

KOMATIITE sounds like the same exact problem. My dealer changed the pcv valve & now its fine.Sounds funny but have them give it a try.

#130 of 3674 2001 Chevy Blazer S10 4 door LT by aqua10

Apr 03, 2001 (12:26 pm)

Has any one had problems with the ABS and brake lights (from the dashboard) coming on - (failing)
 
My NEW 2001 Blazers ABS and brake light module has shorted out twice in 2 days. The dealer is fixing it again, but I am a little worried because the Blazer is only 2 days old. 49 miles

#132 of 3674 Re: Noise (abc246) by poisondartfrog

Apr 03, 2001 (7:44 pm)

For the door hinge, were the pins and bushings replaced? I had mine replaced recently on my '97 Bravada at 46K miles. I've also heard some people need the hood hinge shimmed to get rid of a knocking noise over bumps.
 
And, you didn't list the upper ball joints as being replaced... that may be another source of knocking from underneath the vehicle.
 
BTW, what was the reason for the rear rotor replacement? I've noticed mine are below the service limit on the stock pads at 46K. It seems like the OEM pad material was too hard a compound?, and wears down the rotors prematurely (the rear pads still have half the original thickness left). I replaced the front pads with a softer compound... a little more brake dust, but I can modulate the brakes better and the pads should wear out before the rotors!

#133 of 3674 Good Info. on Dexcool and Coolant Contamination (A Must See) by poisondartfrog

Apr 04, 2001 (9:30 pm)

Found this link about Dexcool and whether it is linked to contamination in the cooling system. Have you checked your radiator cap lately?

http://www.imcool.com/articles/anitfreeze-coolant/dexcool-macs2001.htm

This link found at:

http://www.s-series.org

#134 of 3674 Re: Noise by abc246

Apr 05, 2001 (12:40 pm)

The entire upper hinge on the driver's door was replaced as a unit. The Blazer had to go to the dealer body shop for this because the hinge is welded to the body. The original hinge was replaced because the lower bushing cracked and allowed the door to sag. I have seen many Blazers with bad door hinges. One thing I did notice is that after I oil or grease the hinge it gets dry quickly because water from the windshield and roof runs on the hinge- another poor design.
 
I found the rattle- it was coming form the oil pan skid plate. This plate is optional and most blazers do not have it. It seems that the lower control arm frame mounts move slightly when you hit a bump (possibly by design). The skid plate ties the lower control arm mounts together in the rear. Since the skid plate is a plastic non load bearing material it is not capable of being a support member, so GM made the skid plate with oblong bolts holes and spring washers so the skid plate can float on the rear mounts. I must have stuck the plate and moved one of the skid plate mounts that is attached to the lower control arm frame mount. This prevented the frame mount from moving as much at it needed. VERY POOR DESIGN.
 
The rear rotors were replaced because of rust. They rusted so much that the disk brake material actually bonded to the rotor! I do use this SUV off road and on the beach, but I never had this type of problem before. The rotors also were very close to the service limit.
To POST a message, please Sign In.

Advertisement

Browse by Category

Browse by Vehicle
   View All Vehicles

Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
View All Topics

Edmunds Community

Advertisement