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Isuzu Trooper, SUV
#11328 of 11964 Re: 2001 Trooper Vacuum Leak? [lampro]
Aug 03, 2006 (3:11 am)
Here is some info you might like and I suggest that you could spray something like wd 40 on the intake gasket surface edges.....changes in idle would occur and it might identify exactly if and where a problem may lie:
2001 Isuzu Truck Trooper LS 4WD V6-3.5L
Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Intake Manifold Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Intake Manifold Bolt Torque Revision
Engine - Intake Manifold Bolt Torque Revision
Gasket Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Specifications (Service Manual Revision)
ISSUE DATE: JULY, 2003
1998-2003 Isuzu models equipped with a 3.2L or 3.5L engine.
2001 Isuzu Truck Trooper LS 4WD V6-3.5L
Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins Electronic Throttle Control - Code Diagnosis
Electronic Throttle Control - Code Diagnosis
2000 - 2001 ISUZU V-6 ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL
All 2000 - 2001 Isuzu V-6 engines with Electronic Throttle Control.
All 2000 - 2001 Isuzu V-6 engines with Electronic Throttle Control may exhibit multiple codes for any condition identified in the Accelerator Pedal Assembly and/or the Throttle Assembly. In order to clarify the diagnostics available with the Tech 2 and the PowerLink, this bulletin will present four possible symptoms that actually help identify the root cause.
The Isuzu Electronic Throttle Control System will usually set multiple codes no matter which driveability symptoms are present. To best diagnose the condition, the service advisor and technician should ask the customer when the MIL and Reduced Power Light sets and if any driveability symptoms were present. The most common codes associated with their respective sensor and/or throttle motor circuits are shown.
The four most common symptoms associated with Electronic Throttle are:
^ The Reduced Power Light may be on with the MIL on/off with no driveability symptoms existing at the time of code detection or during diagnostics. Usually P1271, P1273 and P1275 are stored in memory. The code(s) set at key-up and are related to correlation errors. Remember, when the TP1 and the TP2 or the AP1 and the AP2 actual readings are added together, the total should be 100%. If the variation is at or exceeds 5%, a P1275 may set. In order to duplicate the condition, install the Tech 2 or the PowerLink and perform a quick-snapshot prior to the initial cold start. Look for a glitch on the AP1 reading
^ The second complaint will usually be related to the MIL and Reduced Power Light with codes for throttle position sensors or accelerator position sensors. The customer will also complain of lack-of-power. This condition is most likely related to loss of a five-volt reference. Therefore one AP sensor and one TP sensor are affected. A P1275 is definitely present.
^ The third complaint will also be related to the Reduced Power Light being on, the MIL on and the vehicle in a "Forced Idle" mode. This may be related to loss of both five-volt references, loss of both AP sensor readings, and/or loss of both TP sensor readings.
^ The final complaint is also related to a Reduced Power Light present. the MIL on, and a forced shut-down condition. The vehicle will crank but will not start. This condition may be related to a Throttle Motor condition and/or the loss of either or both five-volt references for the Throttle Position Sensors and the Accelerator Position Sensors.
Use this bulletin as a guide in determining the direction and starting point of diagnostics for the Isuzu V-6 Electronic Throttle Systems.
The following information has been revised in the Engine section of the Service Manual. Use the torque chart when installing the Intake Manifold to the Cylinder Head.
NOTE: Information released on paper and electronic format prior to bulletin release cannot be updated. For the most current and up to date information refer to ISUZUONE. com.
#11329 of 11964 Re: 2001 Trooper Vacuum Leak? [lampro]
Aug 03, 2006 (5:25 am)
I was not very explicit when I made my suggestion in the previous post.
Have you checked to see if any codes were set....some may be in memory but not lighting the check engine light (CEL).
First I would check ALL vacuum lines including emission lines for cuts, holes, burn throughs etc; before assuming it is a gasket problem. I should have told you to start the vehicle and have it idling (highest intake suction condition) when you spray the intake to gasket to head sealing areas with wd-40. Upon doing this, if you hear or feel a change in the idle (roughness or improvement or a change in idle rpm), that would indicate a gasket problem. I am very leery about some mechanics who might suggest using any other compound (gasoline or ether) instead of an inert substance like wd-40 or similar substance. Using a fuel type substance might substantially increase the detection odds for an intake leak, but such flammable materials can pose an even greater burn hazard to you and the vehicle. Please do not use any flammable material to check.
Although it was a common problem for Isuzus in general, for your year vehicle, I could find no intake gasket Technical Service bulletins.
There is another bulletin about the accelerator position sensor, but only applies if a code is set (The engine may occasionally experience idle fluctuation and/ or the MIL(malfunction indicator light) will illuminate because an accelerator position sensor (APS) DTC is set; P1271, P1273, P1275, P1280, or P1285. Also the Reduced Power light may be on.
In the event it is a gasket leak, the info previously supplied might help about torque for the manifold bolts.
#11330 of 11964 Re: 2001 Trooper Vacuum Leak? [atfdmike]
Aug 04, 2006 (9:31 am)
Great idea re WD40 and vac leak test. The intermittent nature of the idle problem may be an issue but, as you indicated, a change of rpm or roughness may be revealed. I agree, no flammables. Can't imagine using gasoline!!!??? Will run through the process this weekend.
So far, no codes have set off the CEL. I'll have to run down a place for a code check. Living in the boondocks makes things a little more interesting with diagnostic problems-can't hop down the street to the local Autozone for a code check. Should probably get a code reader for the shop.
In any case, appreciate all the information. I'll post when I finally run this critter down.
#11331 of 11964 Re: To buy or not to buy?? [laparka55]
Aug 05, 2006 (3:09 pm)
Hey Scott, I say PASSSSSS on the trooper! I have an 2001 Trooper S w/74k I've replaced the engine at 67K and then the Tranny 3k later. This Truck has been a NIGHTMARE! I got the truck w/7k drove ok for awhile then the check engine problem started. It seems that the piece of cramp has been in the shop so many times I lost count.
I thought I did my research before my purchase but not enough. When my engine locked ISUZU did NOTHING. My mechanic suggested I google search "ISUZU PROBLEMS/ENGINE and WOW what a surprise! I printed various complaints, called Isuzu HQ and my Rep was never in his office. What kills me is that they know of the problems
So Far I've had:
3-gas cap sensors
1-Engine(DRINKS way too much OIL) I now check my oil every 500 miles and change it every 2500 miles
My vacuum switch keeps going out on the TOD
My A/C is horrible
And yes I took care of my Trooper, regular oil changes anytime a light came on I was taking it to the dealership...Which never could find anything wrong. I had no warning about the engine it locked up on me while on the highway.
I could keep going on but I wont I say stay away! Definitely do a google search this will help make your decision I hope.
I want to get rid of the piece of crap so bad I struggle everyday when I drive it whether to trade or keep
Aug 08, 2006 (8:32 pm)
I just passed 100k on my 2001 2wd LS. I love my Trooper - very comfortable and roomy for me and my passengers, plenty of storage in the back, yet the overall size of the truck isn't overbearing. Yes, it "lumbers" around like a, yeah you got it, truck.
My transmission wnet bad around 60k, but Isuzu put in a new one with no hassles (I did have to pay $515 for some electronic selector sensor which was not covered). In the life of the truck I replaced the original shocks at 5K, added stabilizers around the same time, and put Michelins on at 40k.
Last week, in celebration of the Trooper's birthday, I bought it a tank of premium (it couldn't care less), had it detailed, and had the timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, gas filter, hoses and plugs replaced, the injectors cleaned, and the cooling system, EGK, and transmission flushed (all around $1500 at the dealer, who I return to only because of the 10/120 warranty. This will be my last visit, then I'll return to my old trusted mechanic who kept my Nissan pickup running well past it's expiration date and 300k.....).
I love the subtle classy look of my Trooper -it's timeless in the Land Rover-old Landcruiser sort of way. Simple front end, simple back end, simple profile.
Yes, I wish it could get better gas mileage (16 mpg, but I drive like a maniac, then hit bumper-to-bumper in my daily grind...). I wish I had more confidence in the dealer (a combo Isuzu-Lincoln/Mercury dealer - talk about picking the worst sales combo out there!) or even Isuzu USA - they've really dropped the ball these past 6 years.
Back then, even at the tail end of the SUV craze, they had the Trooper, Axiom, and Rodeo. In years prior, they made some decent sporty cars, like the Impulse, turbo I-mark. It's a shame, really.
Anyway, I suggest you go for it...I've found to be a great vehicle overall.
#11333 of 11964 Problems after tranny flush
Aug 14, 2006 (2:24 pm)
I had my 98K '00 LS tranny flushed a while back. Soon afterwards, when I tried to accelerate moderately from a dead stop, it felt like it was slipping than would catch and slam shift. I returned it to the dealer today, and they claimed it was a quart low on fluid and was fine after a top off. They also claimed that no damage was done to the transmission. Is this true? I haven't picked it up as it is also getting a new axle seal complements of my 10/120 warranty, but the tranny problem has been on my mind all day.
#11334 of 11964 Engine runs and Transmission won't engage
Aug 15, 2006 (8:19 pm)
Just got stranded for the first time ever by one of my Troopers. Dealer replaced manifold gasket flushed Transmission and said no worries. Drove car from Phila. to Maryland, 60 miles, and as I pulled into town same problem all over. 02 LS 4WD 107K. Regular Mobil One changes, other then the TOD sensor needing replacement twice. no other problems. Is this an extension fo the Manifold issue or something worse? Like my Troop way to much but am starting to worry. Any advice greatly appreciated post and answer or send me an email. thanks.
Aug 16, 2006 (3:08 am)
Hi, thought you would be interested in knowing exactly how Isuzu says a tranny should be flushed. Note that there is a flow test that you could ask the dealer if they performed. Checking the trans fluid should be first priority, as if they left any solvent in the trans from the flush it would, I think, evaporate and that could lower the trans fluid level. Worth checking!
2002 Isuzu Truck Trooper LS 4WD V6-3.5L
Vehicle Level Transmission and Drivetrain Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Flushing Procedures
A/T - Flushing Procedures
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUSHING PROCEDURES
All current Isuzu vehicles with automatic transmissions that requires a transmission replacement.
As part of the normal repair procedure for replacement of the automatic transmission, flushing the transmission cooler and associated lines/pipes must be performed.
To avoid a second failure, the flushing procedure is required to insure that all debris and contaminants including metal, band material and burnt transmission fluid are removed prior to installation of the new transmission. The flush procedure is part of the replacement procedure and if not properly performed will often result in immediate failure of the replacement transmission.
The flushing procedure should be completed using a Transmission Cooling System Flusher (J-35944 or equivalent) to insure that all of the pipes and cooler are reverse flushed.
Follow the flushing procedure provided by the manufacturer of your flushing equipment. These procedures should be used as a standard practice after removing a defective transmission:
1. After removing the defective transmission, identify the two transmission cooler lines. Identify which line is the outlet and which line is the return line to the transmission cooler.
2. Attach the flush machine so that the flow of flush solution is the reverse of the transmission fluid flow. Be sure to use only approved Oil Cooler Flushing Fluid.
3. After the flushing procedure is complete and the replacement transmission has been installed a flow test must be completed.
FLOW TEST PROCEDURES
Important :The Flow Test must he performed after the flush to ensure that all flushing solution and water is removed from the system.
1. Connect a hose from the transmission cooler return outlet side to an empty container capable of measuring fluid level. (Figure 1)
2. Confirm the transmission is filled with automatic transmission fluid. Refer to Fluid Capacity Specifications in the workshop manual for the correct automatic transmission fluid capacity.
3. Start the engine with the transmission in Park range and run for 30 seconds after fluid begins to flow from the discharge hose. A minimum of 1.9L (2 quarts) must be discharged during this 30 second run time.
4. If the fluid flow meets or exceeds 1.9L (2quarts) in 30 seconds the flow test is complete.
5. Reconnect all hoses to the transmission.
6. Check and adjust automatic transmission fluid level (refer to the workshop manual for proper procedure and capacity).
Here is how to check fluid. but above all be careful, as the engine is idling and exhaust is hot, and be sure to chock wheels in both directions on level surface:
When adding or changing fluid, use only DEXRON (R) -III.
CAUTION: DO NOT OVERFILL. Overfilling will cause foaming, loss of fluid, abnormal shifting and possible damage to the transmission.
Park the vehicle on level ground and apply the parking brake firmly.
Check fluid level with engine running at idle. NOTE: Be sure that transmission fluid temperature is below 30 °C (86 °F).
Move the selector lever through all gear ranges.
Move the selector lever to "Park".
Let engine idle for 3 minutes and open the overfill screw (1).
Add ( DEXRON (R) -III) transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill screw opening.
Let engine idle until a fluid temperature between 32 °C (90 °F) and 57 °C (135 °F) is reached, then close the overfill screw (1). Torque: 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.) NOTE: Check transmission fluid temperature with scan tool. Minimum fluid level 57 °C (135 °F) Maximum fluid level 32 °C (90 °F) I will try to find the link showing the photo of trans openings if you need them. The same trans is used from at least 1999 on Truprs, so any view will do.
CAUTION: Do not open overfill screw with engine stopped.
CAUTION: DO NOT CHECK FLUID LEVEL UNDER THESE CONDITIONS:
Immediately after driving at sustained highway speeds.
In heavy city traffic during hot weather.
If vehicle is towing a trailer.
If the vehicle has been operated under these conditions, shut the engine off and allow the vehicle to "cool" for thirty (30) minutes. After the cool down period, restart the vehicle and continue from step 2 above.
#11336 of 11964 "Clunky" transmission on 99 Trooper.
Aug 17, 2006 (2:03 pm)
I recently bought a 99 Trooper. It is in excellent condition, but the transmission has become "clunky". It has 87,000 miles on it. By "clunky", I mean that there is a clunking noise when I shift it from park to drive or drive to park. It also clunks when I come up to a stop sign and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st gear. Has anyone else experienced this? I was hoping it was U-joints, but I fear it is not.
#11337 of 11964 Re: "Clunky" transmission on 99 Trooper. [ejr8fan]
Aug 17, 2006 (8:49 pm)
I have a 99 trooper that does a similar thing. I bought mine 2 1/2 years ago with 74,000 miles and mine now has 96,000. I have yet to have one repair. Not so much from drive to park, but mine does clunk often from downshift 2nd to 1st. It has been doing so for about a year and a half. I was wanting it to be U-joint, but I feel it is probably transmission.
That being said I would not do a transmission flush and just let it be. Mine does not seem to be getting worse. The transmission is the Achilles heel of these vehicles. My father has a ford explorer that had a transmission doing much worse things than this at about 100,000 miles and he has put on another 150,000 miles since then with no repairs. If it is indeed the transmission it could last a very long time or go out soon. Pray to the car gods.