Last post on Jul 09, 2013 at 7:15 AM
You are in the Isuzu Trooper
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Isuzu Trooper, SUV
#10982 of 11966 Re: Oil Consumption [wheels13]
Oct 05, 2005 (5:44 pm)
Be careful about using to thick an oil. Some Troopers like the 3.2L 1995 have small oil passages that can cause a lifter clicking sound with too thick of oil, or with dirty oil. Isuzu itself recommended 0w30 to help with the lifter ticking.
Where is the oil entering the combustion? Is it leaking past the valve guide seals? Are the rings allowing blow by? Is the oil hitting the back of really hot pistons and vaporizing then being evacuated through the crankcase ventillation?
I use the redlineoil.com product called Water Wetter to reduce the chance of hot spots in the engine. I think Redline Oil is the best there is, just too expensive to actually use in the engine (I use valvoline because my family always has). I use the Red Line MTL for my manual transmission and Red Line oils in the diffrentials because they don't require frequent changes and do not deplete.
#10983 of 11966 Re: CD-2 report [yngve]
Oct 05, 2005 (5:54 pm)
Glad to hear the good report with the CD2. I'm not using it at all right now and I went 3000 miles using only 1 quart. I was using 1 quart every 500 miles before the CD2 treatment. This is definitely the cure to the Isuzu oil consumption problem! I'm using dino 10w30.
Please note that these engines are not using oil due to excessive wear, but due to a design flaw in the piston rings where sludge buildup is not allowing proper function. The CD2 cleans the sludge and allows the rings to function properly. There have other products mentioned on this forum and others that claim to also fix the problem, but I have tried them all and the CD2 was the only one that fixed the problem.
#10984 of 11966 Note about 3.2L and 3.5L engines
Oct 06, 2005 (9:10 am)
OOps, hit enter instead of tab.......
I noticed the 3.2L engine turns about 3000 rpms at 70 mph where the 3.5L engine turns about 2500. That's a lot less wear on the 3.5L for the same amount of miles driven! Anyone else notice this difference??
#10985 of 11966 Re: Note about 3.2L and 3.5L engines [bsmart1]
Oct 06, 2005 (7:08 pm)
Yes, I noticed that going from my 3.2L 1995 Trooper that was totalled, to my 3.5L 2001 Trooper the 70mph RPM was less. I did 70+ for 1400 miles straight thru in 20 hours including the stops with the 1984 (speedo only goes to 85mph), trouble free little engine that could!
1984 1.9L 4 speed manual 70 mph = 4100 RPM
1995 3.2L 5 speed manual 70 mph = 3100 RPM
2001 3.5L 5 speed manual 70 mph = 2700 RPM
The lower RPM give higher MPG! and the 3.5L feels like it has a lot more power, especially more torque. There's a supercharger kit out there somewhere for the 3.5L.
#10986 of 11966 Re: Power window problem - 1998 Trooper [hnbii]
Oct 07, 2005 (6:29 am)
Hank - Did you ever get any drawings to take the door apart?? I have the same problem with my 99.
#10987 of 11966 Re: Power window problem - 1998 Trooper [bluedevils]
Oct 07, 2005 (6:32 am)
Bluedevil - Did you ever get a shop manual for this repair. My driver's side window is off again.
#10988 of 11966 Re: Power window problem - 1998 Trooper [emiura]
Oct 07, 2005 (6:36 am)
emiura - do you have the shop manual for removing the front driver's side door panel. my window is off the clips (2nd time) and I want to go in and see what's going on. i think the first shop that repaired and only glued things back together vice placing the parts.
#10989 of 11966 To sell or not to sell?
Oct 07, 2005 (4:51 pm)
My husband has a '96 Trooper that he adores. It has 150K on it, but it is perfect cosmetic condition and runs well other than brakes and a squeaking noise (I'm not a car person, so I don't know what the technical terms are). We have $2000 saved and the Troop is valued at $3500, so would it really be conceivable to put the two grand into fixing it, or would it be better to use the cash and the Troop for a down payment on something newer? He's really super attached to the Trooper, but I handle the finances and he's left the decision up to me. If at all possible, I'd rather put the money into it and get it completely fixed for a surprise Christmas present. Is this wise?
Oct 08, 2005 (2:58 pm)
You know what they say about men and their trucks.......he'll not like it if he has to get rid of something he likes so much.
Sounds like the brakes might be squeeking??? If all it needs is some brake work, that won't use up the $2000. You'd have a lot of money left over to spend on some other sweet surprise for him!!
#10991 of 11966 Re: 99 Trooper Transmission Trouble? [paratrooper1]
Oct 08, 2005 (4:31 pm)
I have a '99 Trooper with 61K miles. This week my wife (it's her primary vehicle) said the engine seemed to be losing power and surging.
I drove it all day Friday and didn't notice any problems. My wife said I didn't drive it right and made me ride with her. Sure enough, if you floored it from a standing start, it would accelerate up to about 3,000 RPM, at which point it would start bucking, with the RPM needle swinging through +/- 500 RPM and it didn't seem t want to accelerate any further unless you backed off the throttle.
I drove and was able to repeat the behavior several times. It felt like riding with someone who was learning to drive a manual transmission. After about three times, it finally threw a Check Engine Light.
I pulled a code 0137: Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2).
While I went out to get a replacement sensor, my wife called and said she was stranded. The engine had stalled, shut off, and wouldn't start. After a few minutes, she was able to get it restarted and limped home, trying shifting to different gears, etc.
Once the exhaust cooled off, I replaced the sensor on the drivers side just behind the catalytic converter. There are four sensors, two from each exhaust path. I assumed the left side was Bank 1 and the last sensor was Sensor 2. Anybody know if this is correct?
I noticed while replacing the sensor that the TOD/transfer case seemed hot, even though the exhaust had cooled down.
I replaced the sensor, and let my wife take it for a test drive. She came back very shortly, barely making it around the block. When she got home, the Check Engine Light and the Check Transmission Light were both on. She said it was like it wouldn't shift, it just wanted to stay in 1st gear.
I pulled the codes again. I got a 0137 again, and this time a 0722: Transmission Output Speed Sensor - No Signal.
I can't tell if there are two problems or just one. Clearly there is a transmission problem. I'm wondering if there is a wire harness gone bad, causing both problems. Perhaps I pulled a wire loose changing the oxygen sensor?
Either way, I'm taking it to a transmission shop on Monday. I'm hoping it is just a bad sensor or harness and not a true tranny problem.
On another note, I put in some CD2 last oil change, and oil consumption seemed to taper off sharly the last 1000 miles. I only lost about 0.5 quarts and I had been losing a full quart every 1000 miles. I put in another bottle of CD2 to top it off and am hoping to see continued improvement.
Next oil change I'll be sure to put in engine flush again to help keep the oil drain holes clean.
Will report back here.