Last post on Jun 24, 2013 at 1:51 PM
You are in the Lexus RX 300/330/350
What is this discussion about?
Lexus RX 300, SUV
#9489 of 9498 Re: 2003 rx300 vibration [kdsmm2001]
Sep 06, 2012 (6:45 am)
I have a very strong banging noise when I accelerate from First to Second gear then after that the car runs fine, the car (RX300 2002) it sounds as it is coming from the muffler that bangs on the car's body however the dealer says the muffler is fine. I wonder if this is same what you have.
Some suggested that the cause is from the Transmission fixture that holds the transmission to the car body and it must be replaced, any ideas?
#9490 of 9498 Re: My 2000 RX300 2WD [jiamin]
Dec 12, 2012 (6:44 pm)
If the transmission is running fine, you shouldn't worried about it. If you really want to protect your transmission from failure, I recommend servicing it every 30,000 miles. It is best to use Toyota Type 4 transmission fluid. This fluid is O.E. Also replace the pan gasket and filter. Of course, the pan must be free of grease, grim, dirt etc, in order to keep it running in peak condition.
You have the same theory as I do about keeping this Lexus RX 300 forever. If you want the best protection use full synthetic motor oil. I am doing it to my 2001 right now. Don't forget the oil filter. Maybe you can get beyond 300,000 miles with the care that you give this trunk.
Don't go cheap on the transmission fluid because it can cause a failure if you use anything other than Toyota Type 4 .
#9491 of 9498 Re: Heater Failure [avery1]
Dec 12, 2012 (7:19 pm)
My 2001 RX 300 is doing the same thing. It is a servo switch the control the heating and air conditioning. It is a box about the size of tape measure. There is no aftermarket part so it must be purchase fron the dealer. Mine lasts about 12 years. I don't know about the life span of others? They say that it is very common problem. The part cost beyond $200.00 plus labor.
#9492 of 9498 Re: Cabin air filter [lennyr]
Dec 12, 2012 (7:27 pm)
It is located in the behind glove compartment. All you need to do is remove the plastic piece that is attach to glove compartment. It is not hard to replace cabin filter.
#9493 of 9498 Re: Locksmith in Los Angeles [mngtcon]
Dec 12, 2012 (7:39 pm)
I have a guy that can cut Lexus keys and programs them too. He is a mobile locksmith. If you want to leave an email at: qtl72ratyahoo.com, I will get a phone to you. He also cut key for other makes and models.
#9494 of 9498 Re: My 2000 RX300 2WD [casino2]
Dec 12, 2012 (8:05 pm)
I see reference on the web to the Type IV and the type T IV ... is there a difference? I have a 99 RX300.
#9495 of 9498 Re: My 2000 RX300 2WD [dashworth]
Dec 13, 2012 (3:01 pm)
Trans fluid type IV and T-IV are "type 4" which is only used by some Toyota vehicles, as far as I know. I think that's where the "T" comes from; it just depends on the brand. Just make sure you are using type 4 and not a generic like Dextron or Mercron that are used on many vehicles. But I've found the most cost-effective way to purchase it is with a coupon from the Toyota dealer buying the Toyota brand stuff, anyway. The stuff at the auto parts stores comes out to be more expensive, especially when you are changing the fluid in the trans pan, the front differential, and then pumping out the rest of the dirty stuff from the cooler lines... about 10+ quarts at a time.
FWIW, there are some really cool posts for DIY service on Club Lexus.
#9496 of 9498 Anyone curious about a thread on DIY Trans SERVICE for RX300
Dec 13, 2012 (3:18 pm)
Here's some info from other owers at Club Lexus:
oops, that's the last page... but you can navigate from there.
#9497 of 9498 Re: My 2000 RX300 2WD [la4mead]
Dec 13, 2012 (4:24 pm)
Thanks for the input, and I will check out the DIY site. My 99 RX300 was flushed about a year ago but now I'm wondering what they used for fluid. I'll flush it and the 2004 RX330 with the genuine Toyota stuff. Hopefully Santa will bring a big sack of $$$$
#9498 of 9498 RX300 Trasmission Jumps after engine rebuild and ECU burn out
Jun 24, 2013 (1:51 pm)
2001 Lexus RX300 AWD 137K miles....not driveable 1 year...3 mechanics and 5k later :o(
PLLLLLLLEASE IF ANYONE HAS ANY ADVICE.....THIS IS CAR HELL!!!!
Didnít put oil in the car- Needed new engine/engine seized
-Transmission ran smoothly
-Car towed to mechanic #1
Mechanic #1 -Car sat for 6 months
-he replaced 1 engine head
-engine strong but transmission jumps now
-car is driven to Mechanic #2 with transmission jumping
Mechanic #2 -took out vtt solenoid
-changed transmission fluid twice
-car is not starting
- Car towed to mechanic #3
Mechanic #2-replaces missing VTT solenoid
-says ECU is burnt out
-replaces ECU and Keys
-transmission is jumping
My Theories: (Because the transmission was running smoothly when the engine burnt out then the transmission jumped after the engine rebuild)
1.) Transmission was stolen/switched by mechanic #1
Q:How do I get the vin off the transmission? (Is it that difficult? because Mechanic #3 doesnít seem to want to do it)
Q:What will you charge to get the VIN off the transmission?
2.) Car sat for 6 months at mechanic #1. Q:Can the transmission die from sitting for 6 months?
3.) When the engine was rebuilt by Mechanic #1 the engine ground cables behind the air intake manifold were left lose (not reconnected properly or disturbed), and this causes the transmission to work erratically, and the ECU to eventually burn out when being test driven by mechanic #2 or #3. Q:Is this possible? Q:Could certain ground cables in the engine have been disturbed when the engine was repaired? Q:Can you see if any of the engine repairs could have caused the transmission trouble?