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SUVs GMC Yukon GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali
4072 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 11:01 PM
You are in the GMC Yukon Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Hi, I have a 2002 Tahoe and need to replace the oxygen sensor, anyways, is this hard and could you tell me how to do it. Or even give me a website of some sort. I tried to look for a thread but nothing applied. Thanks, Kim |
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Ok, with the complaint of a lack of activity here, I'm going to step up to the request for people with upgrades/mods to their YXL. For the record, I've got an '04 Denali XL in Carbon/Shale. 1: K&N FIPK, rev.1 (I think). It's the one with the polished aluminum tube, instead of the black poly' one. It definitely adds some grunt to the lower-middle RPM range. Also gives a more throaty sound at moderate throttle, but just roars (but not annoyingly, IMNSHO) at WOT. By itself, the truck feels more responsive under part-throttle at slower speeds. 2: Hypertech Power Programmer III. Not exactly the perfect match for the Denali, as most of the "tuning" options are geared towards more mechanically modified vehicles (who wants to put 33" tires and new custom axles with non-stock ratios!?). I use it mainly for the 87 Octane engine tuning and the trans shift improvement. $400 retail, but I exchanged the one I had for my '01 Silverado for a total of $200 + shipping. Still a little overpriced, methinks, but I wanted to do *something* with that old PP3 unit. 3: Touch-screen Nav from the '05+ models. This is something I was able to do, despite everything told to me by everyone at all the Chevy/GMC dealers I visited. It's simple, really. The factory Bose system sounds better than average for a factory system, so all it needs is the navi head and GPS sensor (no, it doesn't use the same one from the OnStar system). Got the kit from JP Customs at this site. 4: I've got an iPod that I wanted to use with the Navigation system, but there's no line-in or cassette deck, so my only options were to hack into the head-unit or use an FM solution. I didn't want to try re-wiring a $2k head on a $50k truck, so I opted for a less invasive solution. I went with an in-line FM modulator (not to be confused with the 'over-the-air' FM transmitters - those sound like crap). It's not as nice as a real line-in, but it gets the job done. With the windows down, sunroof open, at speed, with the volume up, it's hard to tell it's not really a line-in! Downside? Finding a switched 12v source to power the thing. Ultimately, I had to tap into the ignition wiring, which is complete hack-job. Plus, I don't get R.A.P. 5: I also had to tap into that switched ignition wire for the Bel RX75 installable radar detector. The hardest part of the install was finding a suitable hole to go from the engine compartment to the cab. I found a great spot between the engine and the steering column where it's only 1 layer of sheet-steel that can be drilled through pretty quickly. Remember to use grommets or something else to seal the two areas off again. I used a combo of a grommet and hot glue. 6: Here's the only "Me Too!" item - Rims. I didn't go gawdy like 22"+. I went with a set of 17" AR Atlas wheels with the factory tires (Goodyear Wrangler HP), and the factory rims now have Bridgestone Deuler Revos. Since both sets of rims are 17", I can easily swap tires to different rims should I ever find the need to do so. Downside? Aftermarket rims didn't get the TPM sensor installed. D'Oh! The only consequences I see are that I need to keep clearing the "Check Pressure Monitor" message from the message center, and I need to keep a close eye on my tire pressures (no more work than normal, really). I just won't be able to leave the monitoring up to the truck if I start losing pressure in one or more of the aftermarket wheels. 7: LED "bulbs" went in for all the turn-signals and brake lights. Really, they're just panels of LEDs that mount to the same base as the factory bulbs. They're *bright*, but only in a narrow field. In other words, it's easier to see from directly behind the truck, but more difficult if you're off to the side. I've found that the LED lights cut through fog and road-spray better than the regular bulbs, so I'm leaving them in. If you go this route on the turn signals, you'll need to make sure you get a "load balancer" - a resistor that tricks the signal switch into thinking you don't have a blown bulb (LEDs pull less current than an incandecent bulb, which looks like a blown bulb to the switch). I'll probably go for the APC LED panels that completely replace the rear housings, but I'm waiting to see reviews of them before I spend the $300 or so on them. What else do I have planned? I'd love to have a light bar on the front, but it's nearly impossible to find anyone that makes one to fit the Denali. This is mainly due to the shape of the front bumper and valence. I'm also waiting until I *really* need it. Right now, I don't really need off-road-type lighting. I do plan on moving out west somewhere to ranch-ish property where extra lighting is a *need*, not just handy. I'd also like to have the line-in for my iPod and/or laptop. I checked out JP Customs again while I was writing this, and it seems they might have an option for that (I have all inputs occupied except the overhead DVD, which I'm going to have done with the rest of the audio system in, like, 8 or 10 years). How about anyone else? |
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Replying to: racermd (Aug 19, 2005 8:05 pm) I'd like to figure something out to use my iPod as well. I read some good reviews of the line-in setup sold by Crutchfield, but when I checked it out it wasn't compatible with the Bose system. A nav system is something I would absolutely love to have, but I couldn't see spending $4,000 for the dealer option just because I'm a tech junkie who's too lazy to read a map. I could almost buy a boat for that price. Pioneer makes a pretty nice setup which receives instant traffic updates from XM Radio. I think I could install that one myself for a little over $2,000. It also has the rear-view camera capability. I'll probably just end up buying a Tom Thumb GPS receiver for my laptop and using that. Much more economical. In the meantime my Rand McNally Road Atlas and Magellan handheld will have to suffice. LED tail lights are definitely in my YXL's future. I put them on my 5x8 cargo trailer and am definitely satisfied. They're much brighter and turn on instantly, as opposed to incandescent bulbs, which lag a few milliseconds. That could mean the difference from someone stopping inches from your bumper or inches from your rear seat.
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Replying to: tireguy (Aug 20, 2005 10:40 pm) I also thought about a more portable dash-top model from, say, Garmin or Magellan. It wasn't worth it for a number of reasons. First, the screens are too small. Second, setting the destination is more difficult. Third, having a box on the dash just doesn't look classy for $50k vehicle. I'd put something like this in my wife's Saturn, but not the Denali. The "factory" Nav head can be had for about $2200 delivered, which will include everything you'll need to get it installed (even step-by-step instructions). Check out JP Customs. They carry brand-new "virgin" units directly from Delphi, so you won't have to get them cleared of any previous vehicle's VIN (if you purchased a unit from eBay, for example). I was able to get mine installed in about 6 hours. If you've taken your dash apart before and know how everything comes apart, it should take about 4 hours. Of course, I took some extra time to get the rest of the center console apart so I could install the FM Modulator and the radar detector, which accounts for the extra 2 hours. Comparing it to the Pioneer unit you mentioned (Avic N1 or N2), the factory setup won't get the real-time traffic updates. But you'll wind up spending closer to $3k-$4k if you decide to go this route. The first issue is that the factory XM reciever will be useless to an aftermarket head, so you'll need to purchase a unit that will work with it - probably the XM TrafficNav unit to go with the Pioneer so you'll get those traffic updates. Second, getting an aftermarket head to work with the factory Bose amp/wiring is difficult at best, and the results usually wind up leaving you wanting more. If you're looking for equal/better results than the factory setup, you'll wind up replacing the speakers, wiring, and amp with aftermarket units. When I priced it out, I figured I'd need to replace the entire setup and get the OnStar/Chime module to retain just those features. The total I came up with was well over $4k (all components were figured to be new retail units). The factory Nav head was a comparative bargain. Eventually, I'll be doing a full aftermarket setup, but not until the resale value for the truck drops significantly - figuring about 6-8 years. I'm not saying you shouldn't do this if it's what you really want to do. I'm just letting you know that my research shows you'll wind up replacing more than you probably think needs to be. Anyway - I just had a thought about the LED lights for the rear. Does anyone know if the Escalade housings will fit on a Yukon/Suburban? IIRC, the Escalade has LED panels for tail-lights, and would probably work better off-axis than the LED "bulbs" I'm using now. I know that the Yukon, YXL, Danali, Tahoe, and Suburban all share the same tail-light housing, but I have no idea about the Escalade. What about any other panels/housings for LED? Anyone? Beuller? |
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I have an 05 dxl and have noticed that when driving at highway speed (70) I average about 16.5mpg but when I put the cruise control on it drops to 15.5. Any ideas as to what is behind this?
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Replying to: harrystewart (Aug 22, 2005 9:06 am) |
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A reporter would like to hear from consumers who have recently had trouble selling their gas-guzzlers for a decent price. If you have a story to share, please respond to jfallon edmunds.com with your daytime contact info, city/state of residence and the make/model in question no later than Monday, August 29, 2005.
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Replying to: racermd (Aug 19, 2005 8:05 pm) 1) Westers PCM tuning--now I can get my 6000-lb DXL to do low 7-second 0-60 and low 15-second quarter-miles. 2) Outlaw air intake; doesn't look as cool as the FIPK or Airaid offerings, but according to my GTech tool, it appears to do the job. 3) I also did the TNR upgrade...however--my route was simpler, as all I needed to do was swap out my existing INR for the appropriate TNR. 4) Swapped out the slave 6-CD changer for a Pioneer AVH-P6500DVD unit--motorized screen, plays MP3 discs and DVD movies. I also have the aux audio/video out running to a pair of... 5) ...Vizualogic 7" headrest monitors. These units will accept an external A/V source, plus play DVD movies via the DVD player built into each headrest. 6) 22" wheels and tires; gotta have some bling to my truck--LOL! 7) Baer Alumasport brake kit front and rear; even with the heavier 22" wheel/tires, the Alumasports are rated to stop my truck in a shorter distance than an all-stock brake setup w/ OEM wheels. 8) LED taillights in a smoked-lens housing--not a bulb-only swap; these are 3 columns of LEDs contained in the tail housing. 9) 4300K HID headlight retrofit kit; some may argue that the improvement--perceived or otherwise--from switching to such a retrofit kit may not be worth its cost...but I chose to do so because I got a great deal...and even after almost 1 1/2 years, the kit is still functional--IOW it hasn't gone bad already, unlike other cheap HID kits. If you do decide to go with the APC LED panel, make sure that your cruise control still works. When I installed my LED tails, I found out that the CC no longer would activate; turns out that the LEDs don't put out enough resistance for the CC unit to pick up. Apparently the CC needs to see this resistance in order to know when to deactivate upon hitting the brake pedal; in any case, the LED tail manufacturer sent me a module which restored the resistance required by the CC.
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yes the mpg goes back up once the cruise is turned off
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Replying to: harrystewart (Aug 24, 2005 10:42 am)
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