Last post on Nov 11, 2012 at 8:13 AM
You are in the GMC Yukon
What is this discussion about?
GMC Yukon XL, SUV
#2184 of 4104 Stevo-Belt Noise
Apr 02, 2002 (11:32 pm)
GM has a TSB on the belt noise issue, the number is 01-02-32-007, and here is what it says. Print this up or at least take the number in to the dealer with you and have it checked out. Let us know if it fixed the problem too!
Accessory Drive Belt Whine (Reposition Power Steering Pump Pulley) #01-02-32-007
Accessory Drive Belt Whine (Reposition Power Steering Pump Pulley)
2001-02 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 1500 Series Utility Models (Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL, Denali, Denali XL)
Built at Janesville Assembly Plant (Plant Code J) from December, 2000 through July, 2001
Some customers may comment on a whining-type noise that is audible in the vehicle's passenger compartment. This noise can typically be heard when the vehicle is idling and may vary in pitch as engine RPM is increased.
The power steering (PS) pump pulley may be positioned too far inboard on the PS pump.
Inspect the PS pump pulley for proper positioning on the PS pump shaft. If it is determined that the pulley is not even/flush with the end of the shaft (+/- 0.25 mm (0.010 in) following the applicable Service Manual procedure and using J 25034-C, reposition the PS pump pulley.
Apr 04, 2002 (12:05 pm)
'01 Suburban 2500HD, 6.0 liter (cold engine knock), 3.73 rear, LT w/autoride, 265 tires get avg
of 12.59 mpg, mixed city and highway. 14335 miles, 1107 gals. $0.08 per mile, avg $1.09 per gal. No towing yet, but best mpg is 15.5 on a 1953 mile trip, worst was 9.2 all town driving.
(did not buy it for the gas mileage)
#2186 of 4104 2500 MPG
Apr 04, 2002 (4:59 pm)
I have a 2002 Yukon XL & get the same mileage. I
only have about 2000 miles on it. I don't have a heavy foot, although my wife is a little pepper than I. I have read on this board of people getting a little better mileage, up to 16 & 17 highway. Can I expect the mileage to increase as I
rack up more miles on the truck, or is this it?
My mileage on the 1st tank was 14.3, mixed driving, after that it went down to 12.4.
I also notice the transmission doesn't shift the same way as other cars I've owned. It shifts at
set speeds. Light engine load or RPM will not cause it to shift earlier. It will not go into
4th gear until 50mph. I think this contributes to my lower mileage. I have to get it over 50, I
can't hang around 45mph.
Also I can't feel the shift points to well. I think this is because I don't accelerate very hard. Does anyone else experience this behavior?
to shift earlier
#2187 of 4104 Driveline clunk, oil consumption, & entertainment...
Apr 05, 2002 (10:18 pm)
We turned 33,333 miles on our '00 Yukon XL (5.3 engine) this evening. Have enjoyed just about every minute with it. We have had problems with oil consumption ONLY on mountainous driving - and then it is downright scary. The last time we did some mountain driving it was going through two quarts every 500 miles. It isn't nearly as bad with normal driving - pretty much nonexistant. The dealer did a "test" (sealed the dipstick) and said it was normal. We aren't that worried about it, but check it closely on mountain drives.
As to the driveline clunk, we would get it when we hit small bumps or pulled out of the driveway (causing the front end to drop quickly off of the lip). They told us that there was a TSB issued for a poorly designed transmission yoke. This included a new U-joint assembly. I had it in for its 30,000 mile service at the same time. Picked it up and the clunk was gone. But the car now had a high-pitched vibration between 70 and 75 mph. Took it back to the dealer. Get a call that is still amazing:
"Sir, the new yoke we installed is not the right one. GM does not make the correct yoke to fix this problem. The U-joint is the wrong size and is slipping back and forth. It is dangerous to drive and we are installing your old, defective yoke." When I asked what THAT meant, I was told that GM hoped to have a correct part in a month or so - but that there were no guarantees. In the meantime I was stuck with the clunk. And guess what? Tonight we went on the freeway and discovered the high-pitched vibration IS STILL THERE! I suspect it is from the tire balance/rotation they also did at the same time. Sigh...
Since a few folks asked earlier about DVD entertainment, here is what we did: We installed a 13.5" LCD drop down TV in the roof (yes, we have a sunroof and it works fine). We then popped a Pioneer portable DVD player under one of the rear seats. The TV has three inputs, so we can also hook up the kids Xbox or whatever to it and they can play away. We did the Audiovox wireless headphones so that they could listen to what they wanted while we listed to what we wanted. The TV also uses a decent outside antenna, so we can get local weather reports (with radar maps) as we travel. It also taps into the stereo system if everybody wants to listen in. Yes, we also spend a LOT of time talking and playing family games on these trips (sans TV). But since some of them are 4,000+ miles roundtrip, the DVD/game system is a nice diversion for everybody.
If anybody wants pics of the install, just drop me an e-mail at Y2KGTSaol.com. In the meantime, if anyone else has any suggestions on the transmission yoke or oil burning, that would be great!
Apr 06, 2002 (12:10 am)
In my experience the dealer can't balance a tire on the concrete floor if the tire was laying down! Let alone position tire weights on the rim in the correct position, try going to a real tire shop. Check your weights also, make sure they are for aluminium rims. The weights will have AL on them and they will be painted to protect against dissimilar metals from reacting and corroding your rims.
Another possibility is that the vibration is that they messed up your u-joint when they changed the yoke, like dropping one of the needle bearings out. This will cause the vibration. Another thing they may have done is install the yoke out of phase with the drive shaft. What that means is when the drive shaft is balanced they do it as an assembly including the yoke. If they installed the yoke backwards(180 degrees flipped) them it can also cause a vibration.
#2189 of 4104 OIL CONSUMPTION!
Apr 06, 2002 (10:01 pm)
that amount of oil consumption at any time is
extremely unacceptable! There is something wrong.
I keep hearing alot of people being told ridiculous problems are normal. According to some on this & other forums GM has come out with a TSB that says a quart in 1000 miles is OK, which I find ridiculous, That would mean if you change your oil every 4000 miles you would actually do two oil changes in 4000 miles.
I am sure 99% of owners don't experience this
amount of oil consumption when mountain driving.
Which means that something isn't right with your
Something seems to be changing when the engine is
under heavy load to let oil into the combustion
chamber,assuming it's not leaking out.
I'd have the dealer find out what it is & correct
#2190 of 4104 What axle ratio for occasional towing?
Apr 07, 2002 (8:02 pm)
I am planning to purchase a 2002 4WD Half-ton Suburban within the next 1-2 weeks. This will be wife's soccer-mom mobile 95% of its life. I will have occasion, however to tow other vehicles which weigh 4500-5000 lbs (not counting the trailer). The GM rep on the toll free number says 4.10 axle would be recommended, but her responses did not instill confidence, to say the least. At least one other post claims to tow other cars with the same motor with the 3.73 axle with ease. Input needed:
1. Do I really need the 4.10 axle?
2. If so, how much mileage will I sacrifice?
3. Is Auto-ride worthwhile in this situation?
Apr 07, 2002 (10:17 pm)
A 3.73:1 should tow just fine. According to the manual a 1/2 ton with 4wd/3.73 can tow up to 7700# with the 5.3L. You will save on fuel economy for sure. I believe Heatwave3 on the 2001+Denali/Denali XL board has a 3.73:1 axle and tows a 7000# boat with out a problem. Ask him about it, I could be wrong about his gear ratio.
Autoride is worth every penny!! I WILL NEVER buy another SUV without it EVER! It really smooths the ride like you wouldn't believe, and if you are going to tow with it, Autoride has a leveling feature that keeps the truck level with the weight of the trailer on the back. That will make it a much safer and easier to drive while towing. If you doubt what I say test drive a Denali XL and then a Burban. If your wife will be driving it most of the time then she will love the Autoride for the car like ride it will give. The problem is finding one that has it in your area, most dealers are not really savvy on what the system does or how it works, so they don't recommend it, or order it for the lot lizard trucks. You can still get an order in for one, and it shouldn't take that long to get, usually within 8 weeks you can get a 4wd 1/2 ton. If you have a reliable car and can wait for the ordered unit go that route and save up some more $$$ for the down payment.
Also in my earlier post you will see the changes on the '03 models. You may want to consider waiting until June/July and order a new one with all the updates. I have some picts I can email you if you want to see the difference. Dual climate controls will be really nice for driving with your wife, typically women want to have the heat on higher than the men do, so it will help out on the temp arguments!
#2192 of 4104 jgmilberg-- Autoride
Apr 08, 2002 (6:50 am)
My neighbor said the same thing as he tows all the time but last week his autoride went out & the dealer told him it's going to cost him $2,800.00 to fix !!!! He is now fighting with GM as his Sub has only 39,000 miles on it. Not so sure it's worth it if it costs that much to repair unless you get rid of it before the waranty runs out or by a ext.waranty. PS: This is his 2nd. autoride failure.
#2193 of 4104 Axle/Autoride--Thanks
Apr 08, 2002 (11:18 am)
Thanks to both everhart and jgmilberg for your insight into these issues. Your help is appreciated !!