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SUVs GMC Yukon GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali
4080 messages, Last post on Feb 24, 2010 at 12:41 PM
You are in the GMC Yukon Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Hold one of the buttons in for 3 to 5 seconds and see if the display changes to read temperature. I have 98, and that's what you do to change it. I do not remember which button to hold in. davigf |
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Holding down the compass button did work, but now it wants me to set the temperature in Celsius. Any idea how to switch it to Ferinheit? Thanks again. |
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Older burbs......is the K20 a 3/4 ton 4WD?? - Tim |
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| Am looking to trade in my 2000 for a 2002 (to take advantage of the $ 2,002 rebate) but the only unit has OEM flares.....has anyone put on or taken off a set....how are they attached??? | |
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On Silverados (Burbs must be the same)they are put on with 2 sided tape (3M Type) Many people have taken them off with no holes left after... Good Luck - Tim |
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| Got a 99 Sub 2WD LT w/56K miles and in like new condition and am very happy so far. Ordered a deep dish alluminum tranny pan today and will install aux tranny cooler and maybe aux engine oil cooler too. We live in South Fla and it's very warm here in Summer. So far I've had the front end aligned to spec, put on 4 new shocks, 100% tranny fluid change, rear end oil changed & motor oil changed to synthetic. Only issue I notice which I'd read about is the little bit of vibration between 65 & 75 MPH. Do the drive line repairs mentioned in "1997 Chevy Suburban Drive Shaft Problems" resolve this vibration. My understanding of those posts is that they deal with the "clunking" issue only (which I don't think I have.) Will a removal and rebalancing of the drive shaft resolve this or does anyone know of other things to look into. Also, what is the name of the part which is recommended be replaced when I drop my tranny pan. It's the one which causes the engine braking. | |
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Congratulations on your new pre-owned Sub and Welcome to the Town Hall! We're glad you decided to come out of the shadows and join in the discussion. tidester Host SUVs |
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In my past experience I would not use an aluminium alloy trans pan. I had 2 and both took hits from road debris and broke. One of them just cracked and caused a leak the other one actually had a hole in it. I now have a steel trans pan and no problems like that, the steel dents and doesn't crack. Derale makes a nice steel one with tubes going through it for extra cooling, it also holds an extra quart of fluid. I am assuming you are trying to get the heat out, this one would probably help better than a fined aluminium pan. This link should get you to where you can see it. But if not the number is der-14104, if you have a 700 R 4 tranny. The site I used to find it was http://www.summitracing.com Have you had the tires balanced? If it is only in the range you said it is probably that. While they have the tires off have them checked out to make sure you don't have a bent rim. I would try these things before sending the drive shaft out to be balanced. If you end up doing that though, have them replace the u-joints before balancing, and make sure the shop balances the drive shaft with the slip yoke attached, it makes a difference. |
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Are you towing something heavy? Is that why you are so concerned about the tranny temp? This is a very overlooked subject. The #1 cause of tranny failure is HEAT! It's good you are addressing it. Along with your tranny cooler I recommend a tranny temp gauge be installed also. The best place according to GM is in the trans. pan. The parts most likely to be destroyed first are the delicate valve body and associated parts. There is a special bolt & nut sold for this purpose with a hole drilled & tapped in the center to accept the sending unit. I made my own using a 3/8 in. NPT tap. Summit racing sells nice gauges,I like the digital LED readout type. This will tell you if your cooler is effective or if you even need one. It is amazing to see the difference in trans temp from NY to Fla. Well, enjoy your new truck & your doing the right thing by covering all the bases! |
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| Last year Chevy had a similar problem with their Corvettes going through oil like water. GM finally admitted the problem. Some owners got a new engine. I don't know the whole story but when I saw the post about the $40,000 Burbs having a similar problem, I thought I had better investigate. I am about to order a new Burb or XL with the 8L engine. Any more info on the oil consumption topic is appreciated. | |
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