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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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What is this discussion about? GMC Yukon XL, SUV

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#1899 of 4076 1995 Yukon Lost "Cruise Contrl" 5.7L 75Kmi by drej Dec 13, 2001 (6:06 am)
I have a 1995 Yukon which Lost "Cruise Control" 5.7L 75Kmi. The Cruise Quit just after the warranty period! (Thanks GMC/GM !, But does anyone have any simple diagnostics, a TSB, or a previous post on the subject? I've been puting off to go to the Dealer$ as $ and the use of Cruise is limited. I admit I would like to use it a few times a month. Someone told me it could be the wiring, as the constsnt use of Tilt steering puts a strain on the electronics on the column. Any Ideas? I did post ? on other sites,Thanks, D~
#1900 of 4076 3% Holdback by baseballmom94 Dec 13, 2001 (6:14 am)
sgj55 mentioned that GM dealers get 3% holdback on sticker price of vehicles. Is this actually on the sticker price or on the selling price of the car? So if you offer invoice, they still get 3% profit? Not bad for them which makes an offer at invoice not unreasonable. Is anyone getting 2002 Yukons at invoice?   Another question: My husband and I have a Toyota lease which will be up in April 2002 (Last payment due in March 2002). We also have a Jeep GC which we are planning to drive until it dies (70,000 miles currently.) Would you purchase a new car in Dec. to take advantage of the slow selling month and have three cars sitting in the driveway (for only 2 drivers) or would it be better to wait and see what incentives the manufacturers may offer in the first quarter of '02?
#1901 of 4076 Re: 1827 3% Holdback by baseballmom94 by campo57 Dec 13, 2001 (9:38 am)
The 3% holdback is on the MSRP of the car (sticker price) but there is a catch for the dealer. This is a pro-rated rebate of sorts. If you go in and order a car, the dealer gets the whole 3%. The longer a car sits on his lot from the delivery date, the less he gets. Check out this page for an explanation of how it works: http://www.edmunds.com/advice/incentives/holdback/index.html Campo57
#1902 of 4076 BUY NOW OR LATER? by sgj55 Dec 13, 2001 (2:49 pm)
It's hard to say what is best to do, buy now or wait. The incentives now are not so hot. They offer 0% financing for 3yrs. Who can afford to pay off one of these things in three years.   You also have to weigh the cost of keeping both vehicles on the road, insurance,tags,maintenance against how much you'll save by buying now. All the analyst are saying that sales are going to drop off in 2002 because of the falling economy and the incentives offered thus far have pulled buyers ahead from the spring. Price wise I don't think you can get hurt either way. Someone is always in need of a sale and willing to sell a car cheap just to meet his quota- or get fired! I bought a few cars from salesmen in that predicament. Anything that will keep people from going to the show room will loosen up the sales- people, like snow storms. A very good time to buy.
#1903 of 4076 'Burb in Vegas by minikin Dec 15, 2001 (6:22 pm)
Tarman -- Gas mileage is a wash; Sub goes for about $2K more, but that's with a useable 3rd seat included; you lose about 4 feet on the turning circle, which makes it about equal to the pre-2000 Tahoes; the bigger gas tank is nice; with a family your size the choice is obvious. -- Don
#1904 of 4076 Joined the club by tarman Dec 16, 2001 (3:25 pm)
Thanks for the advice everyone. I decided that I would eventually crave the space that a Suburban affords a growing family (plus my wife has claustrophobia, so bigger is always better). So, I went down and bought a 2001 Suburban 1500 LT 4x2 in charcoal gray that I had my eye on and test drove a while back--one of only 4 2001's left on the lot. Got a great deal...$35,515 out the door (MSRP was 40,063--paid invoice + ad fee of about $390 + destination charge + tax of $2600 + doc fees of $435 - $2000 rebate). The only option I didn't get, but wanted, was the autoride.   Overall, my sales experience was pretty good--no gimmicks or heavy-handed tactics--I came in, gave my offer and that was it. The sales manager showed me his invoice as well, which matched the numbers from Edmunds exactly. The dealer made about $500 on the deal because of an additional incentive on 2001 'Burbs for local dealers--which I think is fair profit on a leftover. My only complaint with the sales process was how long it took to close the deal with the finance department (I don't know if they were short-handed or what, but I had to sit and wait for a long time--from the time I stepped into the sales booth to the time that I left the lot, I was there for nearly 6 hours). Next time, I'll line up the financing before hand, like I did with my previous purchase.   My second complaint? Dead battery when I went to take my new 'Burb home. Since the truck only had 40 miles on it (not many long test drives), the alternator didn't have enough time to charge the battery up from frequent starts, testing of the interior gadgets, etc. You would think that they would charge the battery up when they detail the car. Then, once we jumped the battery, the engine went into "recovery mode" with reduced power...almost thought that I would have to leave the dang thing there. But, I cranked it up again and got it to start up normally (albeit, with the check engine light on). The next morning, everything seemed normal...started up fine, no check engine light, etc. I think that the dying battery jolted the computer a little bit. Anyway, GM didn't inspire a ton of confidence as I left (can anyone say, "extended warranty"?) After owning a flawless Isuzu Trooper for the last 2 years, I may be in for quite a shock. Who knows??? In order to make me happy, they threw in a free fill-up and oil change when I come in for the first service, without any asking on my part. Good service, I think.   In any event, I'm very happy with the purchase...just in time for a long trip through California to visit both sets of grandparents for Christmas. Being a 4-time Suburban owner, my father-in-law will be excited to see a new 'Burb pull up his driveway.   Now, a quick question: did everyone really baby the truck through the break-in period? After 500 miles, did you drive it normally? Anything else a new owner needs to know? Early oil-change?   Again, thanks for the advice. And if anyone wants to know more about my experience with the Chevy dealer in Las Vegas in more detail, then don't hesitate to e-mail me.
#1905 of 4076 Easy break-in by everhart Dec 17, 2001 (6:17 am)
I just drove mine 2000 Tahoe & 2001 Silverado as I would drive at anyother time. I changed oil at 500 miles,1500 miles,and at 3000 miles. That means 500,1000,1500 miles between the changes and then every 3000 forever. Built many old 350 motors & never had any trouble, Fist couple changes get all the shavings out.
#1906 of 4076 Decision time... by jethead Dec 17, 2001 (4:30 pm)
In the process of deciding on a '02 "Burb" 5.3L or 6.0L vs. an '02 Yukon XL ..same engine options. Other than more $$'s and a few additional options on the Yukon XL, is there any reason for the Yukon XL other than badge engineering? Will be towing total of 5000 lbs. (track car and trailer). Will the 5.3L be enough to get it out of its' own way while on the highway at speed? Thanks in advance for any input.
#1907 of 4076 jethead by sb55 Dec 17, 2001 (5:02 pm)
I have an '01 Yukon XL with the 5.3 and 3.73 rear end and tow a 6500 plus boat and trailer with no problems. I used to have a '95 Burb, and trust me, the new ones tow a lot better. The boat seems to have more drag than a car on trailer. I used to have a 944t that I towed with my 95 to D.E. and club races. I figure that rig weighed about 5500 lbs and it towed great. Even up to Watkins Glen I could go 70mph with no problems.
#1908 of 4076 thanks..... by jethead Dec 17, 2001 (5:18 pm)
I am also towing a 944t to DE and other events. Have never done Watkins Glen...yet. Looks like the the 5.3 will do. Did you get Autoride suspension for load leveling? Again, thanks for the feedback.

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