Last post on Nov 11, 2012 at 9:13 AM
You are in the GMC Yukon
What is this discussion about?
GMC Yukon XL, SUV
#1644 of 4104 With winter approaching...
Aug 28, 2001 (11:31 pm)
I remember some of you having the cold air problem on the passenger side during the cold winter months. GM now has a TSB dealing with it, here it is.
I apologize for the long post, but it is the entire TSB, and is for the people that have"problem" dealers that don't beleive, or want to do the reasearch so they print it up and take it to the dealer as proof.
Passenger SIde of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Drivers SIde (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl
Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)
1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models
2002 Cadillac Escalade
Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:
1.Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.
2.Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.
3.There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.
Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.
Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:
1.Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.
2.Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.
3.Open the hood and install fender covers.
4.Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:
A.Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.
B.Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.
Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.
C.Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.
5.Lower the hood.
6.Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:
A.On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.
B.Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.
C.Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.
D.Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.
E.Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.
7.Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.
8.With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.
9.Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.
10.Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC
11.Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems
only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.
12.Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some
way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:
It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.
A.Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).
B.Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.
C.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from
dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.
D.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet
metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.
E.Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.
13.Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.
14.Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.
15.Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.
16.Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.
17.Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.
18.Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.
19.Lower but do not close the hood.
20.Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
21.Raise the hood.
22.Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips.
23.Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.
Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for
the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked position.
24.Install the wiper arm asse
Aug 29, 2001 (9:11 am)
The shocks in my 95 Suburban 1500 are pretty squishy now at 78K and I am wondering what suggestions some may have for replacement. I've done plenty of Sears best gas for RWD cars but no experience with their truck shocks. Am I better off with Monroe or other?
Smooth ride quality is important - no off roading use here.
Towing is limited to 2500 lb boat - nothing heavier.
Aug 29, 2001 (11:54 am)
Got delivery of 01 YXL end of July. Had problem starting after 300 miles. Stalled on main road. Dealer replaced fuel pump, filter and re programed computer. OK so far. My petite wife complains that the steering is not centered and that she feels like she is sitting sideways to drive. Dealer tried to adjust steering, but did not work. Has anyone experience this? I changed the dome light to the switched reading light, it makes a difference.
#1647 of 4104 2001 YXL by loywilliams
Aug 29, 2001 (12:06 pm)
"My petite wife complains that the steering is not centered and that she feels like she is sitting sideways to drive."
One of the early complaints about the new interior, was the miscentered steering wheel/column. It is not as noticeable in a bench seat as it is in the buckets seats. My petite wife refused to buy the '00 Tahoe because of it and opted for a new '99 instead. There are safety issues, i.e., 4 wheel disk, etc. that in my opinion makes the '00 better, but what the heck we all have our opinions. The '99 has better visibility because of the larger glass area, etc.
#1648 of 4104 shocks by tpken
Aug 29, 2001 (12:13 pm)
Try the Bilsteins. The '99 Tahoe came with them (2WD, LT), and they are the best I have seen or ridden on. About $55 each but well worth it. You can pay $15 each for junk and up to $45 each for good quality, but excellent starts at $55.00. I tried the Monoe VST (Variable Sensity Technology) which were supposed to be Monoe's latest. Junk. I removed them and took them back to Pep Boys for a refund.
#1649 of 4104 GM employee purchase question....
Aug 29, 2001 (2:20 pm)
My mother-in-law tried to purchase a Yukon XL last week from a huge Atlanta dealer using the GM employee discount(her father is a GM UAW retiree). The dealership tried to talk the mother-in-law to do the deal WITHOUT using her Father's GM employee discount! Then they told her if she used her father's discount,she MUST finance the Yukon through GMAC and for a term no longer than 48 months! What kind of BS were they trying to pull?
I have a Ford employee in my family that allows me to make A-plan purchases/leases deals since 1992, I have never ran into a problem like this. At Ford Lincoln/Mercury, if there is ANY factory rebates or special interest rates, you get these ON TOP of the A-plan discount( 2000 Lincoln LS, $500 cash back+0.9%interest on lease on top of A-plan discount)! My wife's grandfather has added my wife to his list of eligible buyers under his discount, but from the experience of my mother-in-law, I may stick with Ford, even though I would prefer to replace my LS with a Denali rather than a Navigator next year.
Can anyone shed light why the GM employee discount seems to be such a hassle compared to Ford's? My mother-in-law claims you have to "hide" the fact that you are a GM employee discount buyer until after you negotiate a price, than spring for the employee discount. At FoMoCo, you tell the dealer straight up you are A-plan qualified, the dealer pulls up the A-plan price from Ford, and than any applicable incentives are added.
Any experience with GM employee discount would be greatly appreciated.
#1650 of 4104 Has anyone changed leafs to springs on the 3/4 ton?
Aug 29, 2001 (5:31 pm)
I am trying to figure out how to get a 1/2 ton Suburban with an 8.1 in it. I have put off buying a Sub for a couple years because of lack of engine options in the 1/2 ton. The ride quality between the 1/2 and 3/4 is very different and since its my wife's car during the week and mine on the weekends, it needs both the nice ride and the big engine.
The car manufacturers are putting smaller and smaller engines in their high volume vehicles for fuel economy reasons. I have read on this board people saying that the Sub is sluggish with 7 passengers in it.
Has anyone bought a 3/4 ton with the 8.1 and then changed the suspension after-market to make it ride like a 1/2 ton? I wonder if the attachment points for the coil springs are there on the 3/4 ton so that one could take the leafs off and put coils on?
I would especially be interested in the name and number of a shop that has done the above for someone.
#1651 of 4104 skipjack2 --
Aug 29, 2001 (7:51 pm)
I take it you have't been able to get your truck reprogrammed right from your tire size swap yet. Reading through your posts going back to the beginning of May, I gotta tell you this: 1) Your dealer's an idiot. 2) He/she is quite possibly confusing 265/70's with 265/75's. 245/75X16 tires have the same diameter as 265/70X16s which are a stock Sub size. 3) Your unhappiness with the performance on your trip in July (Aug) is related. I realize 4% doesn't sound like much. But it WILL screw up your shift points, ABS, and performance. Your truck's computer knows the difference. Ask Ryan, he had the same problem when he went from 265's to 285's and I had it when I went from 245's to 265's on my Silverado. 4) The only reliable way for you to fix this is to bite the bullet and buy a Hypertech III programmer. Your nutcase dealer has screwed with you endlessly. Even the competent ones will mostly just scratch their butt because it's not "in the manual". Even if they could possibly figure out how to deal with it, it will take you another six months and ten trips. Your alternative is to continue to live unhappily with what you have.
#1652 of 4104 Employee Discount...
Aug 30, 2001 (12:07 am)
That dealer is trying to pull one over on you, you can use any bank you want. I think the dealers get a bigger commission on the GMAC loans and ever sweeter deal if they can get you in under 48 months. In fact my mother used a credit union to purchase her car. The GMS/GMO pricing is good for any length loan, and any banking institution. My father got a van on a 6 year loan with gm discount. Just go to another dealer, if they don't have what you ant there, have them dealer trade for the one you saw at the other dealer lot. Tell her to call the "800" number to request a certificate, and just take it in to the dealer when it's time to buy.
#1653 of 4104 GM employee purchase question.... by smwls8
Aug 30, 2001 (9:32 am)
Bill Heard Chevrolet in Kennesaw had no qualms about ordering exactly what I wanted using a GM Supplier Certificate. We did not discuss a payment option until I went to pick it up. Whether I had cash, credit union, or GMAC financing, it made no difference with them. The invoice from the factory has the GMO price and the GM Supplier price right on it (GMO+4%=GM Supplier). I paid the GM Supplier price and sales tax. NO adds on of any kind (no delivery add on, no documents fee, dealer prep or regional advertisment, etc BS.
Find you another dealer... The one you are dealing with stinks...
'01 2500 4x4 LT Suburban, autoride, 6.0 liter and all the goodies except sunroof
Add on Cord Lighted running board, and Michelin 265 tires