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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

4133 messages,  Last post on Mar 24, 2013 at 5:59 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Escape, Mazda Tribute, SUV

    

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Messages Page 409 of 414

#4073 of 4133 Re: 2001 ford escape [mickey0929] by andrewrag

Feb 12, 2012 (1:34 pm)

Replying to: mickey0929 (Jan 05, 2012 4:32 pm)
all it is is a little bolt the sets the idle. Look at where the little wheel is that turns when you push the gas pedal (front right of the engine) under the flywheel you should see a very small bolt that the flywheel will rest on when not compressing the gas pedal. The head of the bolt gets worn down and can make an impression on the plate over time. Usually 2 full turns will have it working fine again.

#4074 of 4133 idle problems with ford escape Easy solution! by andrewrag

Feb 12, 2012 (2:00 pm)

Hello, i went out to my Ecape the other day to find it wouldn't start. was trying to turn over but couldn't unless i gave it a lot of gas. Long story short checked a lot of things but turned out to be a little bolt under the throttle flywheel (front right of engine power steering cable connects to wheel). I disconnected the power steering cable and moved the wheel with my hand to gain access to the bolt under it. Gave the bolt about 2 full turns and the problem has been solved ever since. Hope this saves you all some money and time.

#4075 of 4133 Idle issues update by callahanescape

Feb 14, 2012 (3:56 am)

When I fixed the vacum hose I replaced it from a similiar hose bought from local auto parts store. The hose lasted about 6 months before wearing to the point of the issue returning. I reccomend spending the $49.00 dollars for the genuine ford part number(YL8Z-6C658-A) it will fit correctly and last longer. I just spent three days replacing alternator(nightmare!!). I have some helpful tips if anyone needs them.

#4076 of 4133 Re: idle problems with ford escape Easy solution! [andrewrag] by auralvoodoo

Feb 15, 2012 (5:42 am)

Replying to: andrewrag (Feb 12, 2012 2:00 pm)
Hi,
Thank you for the info. I am assuming that you have a 6 cylinder engine in yours and not the 2.0 4 cylinder like mine.

#4077 of 4133 Re: help please!!! [andrewrag] by sassysady

Feb 19, 2012 (1:14 pm)

Replying to: andrewrag (Feb 12, 2012 1:16 pm)
OHH can you please send me a pic...ive been dealing with problems with my 04 escape for amonth now..grrrrrr

#4078 of 4133 Re: help please!!! [andrewrag] by jarekbakken

Mar 05, 2012 (12:05 pm)

Replying to: andrewrag (Feb 12, 2012 1:16 pm)
I would love a picture as well. Our 04 escape has this problem. I tried replacing the IAC valve and it was a bit more consistent with starting up but still very low RMPs when idle and extremely choppy when accelerating. My uncle who is a service tech at a local Ford dealership thought it was the transmission so I really hope its just this little bolt.

#4079 of 4133 Re: help please!!! [andrewrag] by rob5662

Mar 15, 2012 (8:38 pm)

Replying to: andrewrag (Feb 12, 2012 1:16 pm)
I just bought a 2004 Escape XLT AWD auto and its sputtering and sluggish on the accelerator from a stand still. I took it for a test drive and it was fine. Within an hour of driving it off the lot, the check engine light came on. I`d like a pic of the bolt if possible. Thanks

#4080 of 4133 Escape stalling when not pressing gas by drah8504

Mar 16, 2012 (6:34 pm)

I have a 2001 Ford Escape, 129,000 miles. Everyday when I start the car is has to be warmed up for at least 5 minutes or it will stall when I am not applying gas to it. I took it to the mechanic and he says everything is fine.. the alternator light is on but the fluids are fine. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

#4081 of 4133 Re: Escape stalling when not pressing gas [drah8504] by slenver

Mar 17, 2012 (9:12 am)

Replying to: drah8504 (Mar 16, 2012 6:34 pm)
I apologize for the long reply but I think it is important information.
I bought a 2001 Escape for my daughter. Although it had 150K miles it was in excellent condition. It really wasn't the vehicle that I wanted to buy for her though but it was what she wanted so what can a father do, lol. The next day after buying it the engine light came on. Then it started having issues, mainly at cold idle. By the end of the first year I had replaced every sensor, coils, etc. At times it would seems to be fixed but it never lasted more than a few days or weeks. Because of the problems with the Escape I now own many electronic tools for diagnosing vehicle problems including being able to connect the car computer to a laptop and read everything that is going on. But the one thing I finally found that was most likely the main problem all along was the gaskets in the intake manifold. Actually, I took it to a local garage and they found that those gaskets were leaking. They were rubber o-ring gaskets and were baked hard. They leaked more when cold so once the engine got hot it ran pretty good. So I was really excited when they fixed it, but!, a couple days later and the problem was back! I decided to pull the manifold to see just what they had done. I found the new o-rings were installed but looking at the manifold I realized it was like a hi-rise spacer so there was going to be another set of gaskets under it. I pulled it off and there was an identical set of o-rings gaskets and they hadn't replaced them! I should have taken the Escape back, they charged $127 to put a $3 set of gaskets on top and didn't bother with the bottom ones which turns out were probably worse than the top ones had been. I replaced those and finally, the Escape was running great.
I also want to point out that I had taken this vehicle to a Ford dealership and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
And I also want to mention one more thing I found wrong with the Escape. Quite some time after fixing the gasket leaks, maybe 2 years, my daughter started complaining about how it was acting up at times. It would randomly quit running but then start right up. Once again I could not find nothing wrong. I had all kinds of false engine codes which led to me swapping some of the old sensors with new sensors and what not trying to track the problem down. I was really getting concerned that it was going to cause her to be in a bad accident. One morning I went out to take another look, I was out of ideas and really frustrated. While it was idling I started lightly hitting things around the engine compartment and pulling on wire harnesses. I pulled on the main harness going to the computer and the engine stalled. A few more times and it quit running. Started back up, pulled on it and it did it again. It turns out that one of the wires, right at the plug to the computer was broken inside the insulation. With so many wires I don't know how I was lucky enough to find it as easy as I did. But it seemed to have a little kink in it. It was a 12 volt red wire. I repaired the break and really have not worked on the Escape now for a year or more, maybe 2 years except for normal oil changes and such. One thing, what was happening with the broke wire is that the engine will move back and forth slightly when breaking or accelerating and it was pulling on that wire just enough to make it quit running, or sometimes just misfire, etc. And it was sending out all kinds of false engine codes. Hope this helps. I have been through it this vehicle and can't believe how many Escapes are out there with so many problems. And with all I have been through I can't help but believe that many of the problems people are having is being caused by the baked o-ring gasket. Check them out if you haven't. Get a Chilton manual which will explain in detail how to remove the manifold. It really is an easy job to perform and it the gaskets are baked, it is less than $10 to replace them.

#4082 of 4133 Re: Escape stalling when not pressing gas [drah8504] by manymins14

Mar 17, 2012 (5:38 pm)

Replying to: drah8504 (Mar 16, 2012 6:34 pm)
Most likely the idle air control (IAC) valve which is right smack on the top of the engine in the center right under the hood. My 2003 Escape suffered from periodically being unable to idle for 4 years with Ford charging me hundreds of dollars each time I took it in and telling me they couldn't find anything wrong. This problem does not "throw a code". Finally after reading this forum, I took it to a recommended independent mechanic and told him to change the IAC. Problem solved!

Messages Page 409 of 414

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