Last post on Dec 02, 2013 at 4:13 PM
You are in the Ford Escape
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Ford Escape, Mazda Tribute, SUV
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#4060 of 4149 Re: 2001 Escape 3.0 L V6 [paulkersey]
Dec 15, 2011 (8:36 am)
Did you find out what the problem was? I'm guessing the same as what we have had with our 02 Escape. It had been running rough, and then one night while my son was driving it he said it made a loud noise and started to smell really bad. When he got home we found the EGR valve had a hole in it. After having Ford dealership look at it we were told needed all 3 cat converters, plus EGR, etc., replaced, at a cost of over $3000. We took it to Midas, bought the parts ourselves, and had the job done for around $2300. Now, a month and a half later it suddenly started running bad again. Brought it in to Midis, and they said it's misfiring on several cylinders and needs coils and valve cover gasket set replaced, another $1000. We will again buy the parts and have it repaired to save about $250, but it is draining us dry! But it's the only car my son has to drive to work. Does ANYONE know what is the original cause of all this, or is it simply eveerything wearing out on a 10 year oldcar?
#4061 of 4149 Re: 2001 Escape 3.0 L V6 [thebon]
Dec 15, 2011 (9:04 am)
Just spent $1700 on 100,000 mile service plus replaced PCV valve, front tie rod, brakes replaced, new spark plugs. My 2003 Escape 3.0 V6 runs much better and I haven't had any stalling issues since.
#4062 of 4149 Re: Escape 2.0 FWD 5 spedd Running Problem [auralvoodoo]
Dec 22, 2011 (10:23 am)
I had this problem with mine and I had to have new intake manifold gaskets. Fixed it with no problems and check engine light went off!
#4063 of 4149 Re: Escape 2.0 FWD 5 spedd Running Problem [swolf0213]
Dec 23, 2011 (7:49 am)
Thank you for your reply. Found out it was a warped head. We had replaced the head gasket and checked the deck of the head and it appeared fine. Did a compression test and cylinders 1& 4 were abo180-190 lbs each. 2&3 were 82 & 80. Re-pulled the head and lo and behold the gasket was damaged in the same exact place. Ordered a reman head from Cylinder Heads Int. for $350.00. In the process of installing it. Once that is done we should be good to go.
#4064 of 4149 help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jan 05, 2012 (11:18 am)
i have a 2004 ford escape it starts sometimes but stalls out and some times it wont start unless i give it some gas and when i put it in R or D the engine starts jumping and running really bad.i have checked the fuel filter to see if trash or water was the problem and its clean the guy i bought it from said it has been sitting for 6 weeks but ran great before that.i test drove it before i bought it and it ran great but i stopped at walmart before i went home and when i gt back in and started home it stalled out and thats when all this happened.idk what else to do
Jan 05, 2012 (3:32 pm)
my escape won't stay running. already replaced plugs ,plug wires, ignition coil and throttle position sensor and still won't stay running. if anybody has gone through all this trouble before please give me some ideas, loosing my mind with it already. thanks
#4067 of 4149 01 Escape Rough Idle / Stalling
Jan 21, 2012 (4:48 am)
I have an 01 Escape and every winter I start having the same problem. When the temp drops below 50 degrees or so I go out to start my vehicle in the morning and it idles very rough and will stall unless I hold the gas pedal down and keep the RPMS up to 2000 or higher. It will do this for about 2 to 5 minutes depending on how cold it is. Once the engine is warm (the temp gage goes up at least 1/4) the vehicle runs and drives perfectly fine. I replaced the plugs and coil packs last year around March. I thought that fixed the problem, but it turns out that it just got warmer out and now that the cold weather is back it is doing it again. Again this only happens when it is cold. If it is warm or hot outside I have absolutely 0 problems with it.
#4068 of 4149 idle problems
Jan 28, 2012 (4:42 pm)
in 2009 my inlaws bought us a 2001 ford escape with 82,000 miles on it, from finish line ford in peoria IL. the very next day it started having rough idle problems to the point that it would some times die at a stop, the idle problem would only last for the first few minutes of driving. this problem was 20 times worse in the winter, so i looked into it i changed the idle air control valve, egr valve, mass airflow sensor, spark plugs, fuel filter, and nothing so we dealt with it well around 2010 it started getting worse and we could hear this faint hissing noise from inside the car around the brake pedal. the noise got worse and the idle problem got so bad that we would have to put the car in nuetral when stopped and push the gas. it got so bad that as soon as you took your foot off the gas the car would die and the noise was pretty loud also. when the noise came around the idle problem never went away even after driving for hours. so i changed the brake booster fixed the problem back to how it was when we got it. then we started getting a high pitched noise from the hood of the car around the serpintine belt that was very loud and nasty sounding, that was the ac pump clutch went out and the clutch was rubbing up against one of the bolts on the ac pump as soon as we stopped it welded it self together, car would not start the next day so i replaced ac pump and the belt. two months later me my pregnant wife and my son were coming out to the car late at night from shopping and the key would not go into the ignition, it worked on the door but not the ignition had to drill out the tumbler and put a new one in, in the parking lot, 4 months later i was driving the car and the first time i pushed on the brakes the hole car started to shake and a horrible grinding noise was coming from the brakes, that turned out to be the abs sensor ring which was a nightmare to change. during that time we have changed both blinker lights in the front and the plate lights, i have done a oil change every 3,000 miles and a fuel cleaner. during this time also all door apolstry has slowly fallen off. me and my wife HATE this car but dont have the money to buy a new one, it has been a nightmare from the begining it was put together to fast and to many corners were cut building this car. i will NEVER buy another ford again, the only good thing i can say about this car is that it is pretty easy to work on. my wife and i are waiting every day for it to explode on us. oooo yeah it also has a oil pan leak.
#4069 of 4149 Something to check if your Escape has poor idle or stalling.
Feb 02, 2012 (5:43 am)
I have a 2004 ford escape XLT 3.0 V6. Last summer it started idleing rough and acting funny. Slowly over time it kept getting worse giving misfire codes, stalling at lights etc. I changed, plugs, wires, both O2 sensors, fuel filter and was getting ready to replace EGR valve when I discovered the actual problem under the hood stareing at me. I should say hissing. This triggered some old school memorys and skills. With a little detective ear work I followed the sound to a 1/2" diameter vacum hose that had deteriated from extreme heat. The hose is located on top of the engine in back next to the firewall. It is about in the middle and is a 90 degree hose. the heat had caused a hole to form in turn making the hose collapse on itself. I turned the engine off and the hose popped out. I put some duck tape on it and restarted. The car ran perfect, the check engine light went out and I drove it for a week with no problems, until i properly replaced the hose. Never has been a problem since. So before spending to much more time and money check this hose out first if it is not the problem then keep looking and LISTENING. Shortly after I found a smaller hose in front with same issue and replaced that one as well(it was not causing performance issues though).
I hope this helps someone and saves them some money too. Pass on the info to anyone else who is having same troubles.